Alright all you skilled mechanics out there who helped me with my tach problem. I am going to test your skill some more. Here is my last electrical problem ( I hope).

My temp gauge and fuel gauge do not work. Nope not the problem you think. I know immediately we think of the voltage limiter. Nope, replaced and still they did not work. Tested the new limiter and it did not work, reinstalled the original and it tests fine (blinking light on test light) so not the limiter according to the shop manual (and we know it will not be wrong ). Did not change anything with either one of them.

Took out the circuit board, tested all circuits and they all work including the ground. Wire to the temp sender is contacting. Checked the temp unit is grounding, it is. Replaced the temp sender unit. Replaced the temp gauge with another tested gauge. All I can get is about 1/8 of an inch of response from the needle on the gauge when operating temp reached. Installed aftermarket gauge and operating temp is right up to where it should be. Really not sure what else to check unless the ground is not working properly after the dash cluster is reinserted.

Gas gauge. Yep replaced the ground strap at the tank and tested it is grounding. Check lead wire to sender unit. Had unit out of tank and is showing it is contacting the resister and showing ohms variation as you raise and lower the float. Back to dash, replaced gauge with a working one, checked circuit board - ok.

Strange that it is only those two gauges and both on the same side of the dash and both use the voltage limiter. Only thing I can think of now is the voltage limiter is not making contact inside the printed board when you insert it so current is reaching the limiter but not the gauge.

Anyone had this stubborn problem. I think a ground problem. Guess my question is, if the limiter is testing properly when dash all installed, then the ground must be working for the cluster. There is no ground wires for the cluster so figure it must ground through the screws that hold the cluster into the dash. Very hard to test after the cluster is in.

HELP

Thanks Rapid Robert. I realize this is habit forming and I will stop as soon as I get things working - promise This gives me some additional ways of testing this system. Any idea what the voltage reading should be on the low volt side of the V limiter. Going by the wiring diagram in the manual, the 12v power comes in one side of the V limiter and out the other side then goes to the fuel sender and temp sender as low voltage. I would have assumed the current ran from the senders to the limiter and then to the gauges but seems it is the other way around. Never worked with a limiter before. Will do some testing on Saturday, my day of work. So be patient and don't run away on me, I need
Dennis

switched 12V current goes the the VL & is reduced to a pulsed ~5V then to the respective input terminal(s) on the temp and gas gauge(s) then from the "out" terminal on each gauge downstream to the respective (eng block/gas tank) senders. hot temps/full tank lets more current thru moving the gauge needles further to the right toward H/F. I wasn't quite sure where to start on yours' so I just thru some stuff out there to get us started & get it pinned down a bit. Nah I ain't going nowhere, it's too cold and I'm too lazy

Thanks. actually that helps a lot as that is what I was seeing from the wiring diagram I have. Knowing the VL output is going to help me test that too (again). The new VL I got was supposed to be an upgraded (rebuilt OEM) transistorized one but I could not get any voltage through the output side but the old one did the blink test as it describes in the shop manual. so right now have the old stock OEM one in the dash. As I am sure you are aware with electrical it is a process of elimination so where you have me starting is from a place I had not done so on Saturday we start to pin it down. Thanks a great help.

here is the results and my opinion based on that.
Temp unit cold - 1.06 ohms stud to hex, 1.06 stud to block, 0 hex to block

Temp unit hot - .10 ohms stud to hex, .10 stud to block, 0 hex to block

I have another gauge her and a VL and hooked it up to the temp wire and gauge worked fine, tested the VL at 5 volts. When I hooked through the temp unit, gauge moved about a needle width. I checked and there are two different senders for that car, one for gauges and one for idiot lights. I have ordered a new sender for gauges and see what that does.

Fuel gauge. Again VL working. Tested wire as you suggest by splitting the block under kick panel. I tested wire from sender to block and continuity is there. Tested the ground again at the sender, working. I then tested the upper block wire to gauge and the gauge worked fine by grounding the wire. Put block back together and tested circuit through the block, working. So gauge, ground, wire and VL working so it appears the sender in the tank is the problem.

Does this compute with you as being the summary of results.

Hi Rapid Robert. Well, I changed the temp sender unit today and walla, the gauge works just perfect. You gave me the info I needed to start tracing the problem and I found it. Seems it was likely that the new sender I put in was for idiot light dashes and not gauge. First I heard of that but it worked when I got the right one.
I have boiled it down to the tank sender unit as being the problem with the fuel gauge. Even though I tested it when I installed a new tank, does not mean I did it right. So picked up a new sender today and hopefully get it in tomorrow. Damn and there is gas in the tank too. I am going to test the new one hooked to the gauge before removing the tank. LOL. Thanks a big bunch so far and will keep you posted.

I'm glad you stumbled on the fact that the wrong temp sender was in there as even with your (posted) readings I might not have caught that. On the tank if you (1) pull the blue wire L connector off of the sending unit threaded stud and ground the female connector to a KNOWN good ground & the gas gauge pegs (key on) then the problem is at the sender. (2) plug the female L connector back on to the threaded nipple & key still on & run a ground from the sender short metal nipple to batt neg or a KNOWN good ground & see if the gas gauge reads correct. If you peg the gauge do so as briefly as possible just long enough to confirm what it is doing. (3) if so get one of those short metal factory pieces with clips on each end to connect the nipple to the metal fuel line a few inches away to restore the ground (4) if no reading then siphon some gas & pull the sender. (5) you might ohm the threaded nipple to the sender round circular flat before you pull it & see what you get & note how much gas you have in there right now

Only by fluke I figured out the temp sensor was wrong as it was new one already. Was at the local auto supply and as he was looking up the part he asked if I had gauges or lights. Boom a light went off as the fellow that I got the first one from did not ask that question so I figured I got the wrong one. Other thing that tipped me was the gauges worked when I bypassed the sender so knew it was the sender. I went to our local Mopar classic car expert up here (Nationalmoparts.com) and got a sender from him and pow, it worked. Happy to see that.

Fuel, I have pretty much done everything you suggested here thus the reason I am pretty sure it is the sender. You explain it a little different but pretty much what I did. I have a new ground strap already on the sender and have checked the continuity to ground right from the sender fuel pipe and it is good. Tested the blue wire right at the tank and gauge worked so there is only one component left and that is the sender. Got a new one now and will test gauge from it before I start tearing things apart. I really do appreciate your help on this, it has been tremendous. Will let you know.

Got it, It is the sender. Hooked up the new one outside the tank (before taking tank out) and the gauge worked perfect. However the sender did not work when first hooked up so I raised and lowered the float a dozen times or more and it started working perfectly. Guess I had to wear the contacts in a bit. wow would I have been some ticked it I got that in and it did not work and all it was would have been the contact needed set in. Goes to show, test test test before busting the buns. LOL Thank you so much for all the help, it was a big help.

sure can use the phrase, I am not going to copyright it Not sure what you mean by "what and where on the sender if I may ask". I likely should but not always the sharpest tack in the box.

Hi Rapid Robert. DON'T YOU DARE LAUGH AT ME. :) Just wanted to update you on my progress for solving my gauge problems. Temp working fine. Gas gauge working, sender not working. Well I thought that. Bought a new sender, got the old one out, installed new one (tested first to make sure working). Reinstalled tank ( dropped it just enough to be able to replace the unit, not all the way out so did not spill gas) and hooked up new sender. Gauge not working again. Damit what is wrong. Tested again and again.

OH CRAP, IT'S OUT OF GAS OR TOO LOW TO READ - HA HA HA HA .

Now I think that is the dumbest thing anyone on this site has done. I checked the old original one and it works fine that is what tipped me to the fuel empty thing. Now I have a fully working OEM sender unit for a 67 Satellite to sell. Gosh it has to be worth at least a couple of hundred dollars after all the work I did.

And thanks again for your help on everything. Now you can stop laughing.

I would never laugh bro, I ain't like that. One time 16 yrs ago I rented a house from my racing partner and I could not get the heat to come on after moving in & after moving the horizontle slide on top over to ~80 deg F (where I like it) & no heat so I called him & he called the utility company & they took care of it (I wasn't home when the tech showed up) but I got a call shortly thereafter from John chiding me severely cuz evidently you have to switch the other nub on the side from off to heat in addition to the temp. Cost him a trip charge. I caught hell for that (I'm his ace mechanic) for a week. Good to hear you're squared away (& got an edumacation). Keep your promise now