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NEVER weld in sub frame connectors on a 2 post. Never.....

The load must distributed equally across the structure by either, as you stated, using a drive-on ramp lift or leveling and cross-squaring the rails and using 4 STURDY stands.

Once correctly installed you'll notice the difference. They really tighten-up the unibody.

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What troubles do you expect to encounter if you do it on the lift as he mentioned?


If you put the car up on the lift and the doors open and close properly I would say you should be fine doing it on your lift. I think it really depends on where you place the lift arms as to how much body flex you'll encounter. I did mine on the lift and the door alignment and gaps couldn't be better. They open and close just fine.
I did make sure the car, when lifted, was perfectly level before any welding took place.

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I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires.
I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added.
Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it.
I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors.
I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to those that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster.

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IMO like you suggested. I think if your door gaps are good on the lift and good after the welding, then your good.

Like you said the motor and trans is out minimizing any flex to begin with, I would do it just as long as the car don't flex when you lift it off the ground, watch it closely as you begin the lift.

I did mine with the bare shell(coupe) sideways on my rotisserie and that was really easy. Everything fit on the car perfect when it went back together.

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I've read before that it is advised to install frame connectors with the car either on a 4 post-drive on type lift or on jackstands with the weight of the car bearing on its tires.
I have also seen bare shells on rotisseries with frame connectors being added.
Soon I am going to begin work on a 65 Valiant Convertible. The owner wants some handling improvements including chassis stiffening. It currently is a roller with no engine/trans or interior in it.
I'm curious of any troubles I might encounter by doing the chassis stiffening while elevated on a 2 post lift. I'd think the lack of engine and trans would reduce flex with the car in the air as compared to a complete car. My thinking is that if the door gaps are consistant with the car in the air, it should be safe to install the connectors.
I plan to use 3x3 .120 wall tubing cut and boxed to sit against the floor, similar to those that I made for my brother in laws 72 Duster.

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IMO like you suggested. I think if your door gaps are good on the lift and good after the welding, then your good.

Like you said the motor and trans is out minimizing any flex to begin with, I would do it just as long as the car don't flex when you lift it off the ground, watch it closely as you begin the lift.

I did mine with the bare shell(coupe) sideways on my rotisserie and that was really easy. Everything fit on the car perfect when it went back together.

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I recently had subframes welded into my '63 and the difference was very noticeable.

We made sure and did it with the wheels all bearing the weight of the car.

The guy that did mine did it a little differently as I didn't want to interfere with the floorpans. He cut the front of the rear framerail out to where the 2x2 steel slid into it. The 2x3 that most people use is overkill for anything but a full on racecar IMO.

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with both of the above posters^^^^^^^

3X3" is huge, unnecessary and adds unwanted weight to the car, especially if it's a race car.

.120" wall tubing is pretty thick compared to the sub frames. Ideally you want connectors that are close in thickness as the original sheet metal. A little thicker but not twice as thick. IMO


It needs to be approached differently with and without the engine and transmission installed and whether it's a convertible top or coupe.