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.......3/8 of an inch......really?...........we are complaining about 3/8 of an inch less travel. For one, you need to check and see if the shock even keeps the suspension from full droop and secondly, very few cars NEED that much travel anyway.

Monte

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.......3/8 of an inch......really?...........we are complaining about 3/8 of an inch less travel. For one, you need to check and see if the shock even keeps the suspension from full droop and secondly, very few cars NEED that much travel anyway.

Monte

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Not sure if your reply was directed at me, but YES, a shorter shock was an "inconvenience", at best.

In my case, the damper WAS topped out before the front suspension was fully extended after I'd lowered the ride height and trimmed down the control arm bumpers to allow for the 5" of travel that John Calvert told me to aim for when I had a problem w/ the rear tires unloading after the hit.

I scrounged up a different combination of hardware for the top mounts to make sure the dampers weren't going to pull themselves apart at max suspension lift. That increase in front travel did help correct the launch issue; Calvert's advice worked out well for me.

I think all your input on this board is solid and obviously reflects YEARS of on-track experience. But you've gotten so deep into this at a big-money level that I think you've forgotten what it's like to be "hobby poor" and "race slow", along with the constraints that implies.

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I`m the one who posted that so shoot me already. MOST new heads suck, MOST carbs suck and who knows on shocks but really, ya can`t make em longer in the developement dept? Gimme a break and yes Monte, MOST of us DO need the added travel so give it to us already so we`re not stackin washers..................

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Why does the front suspension need to go to full droop? I ordered my front Afcos short on purpose.

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Because some cars need all the the front movement to
get the front up high enough to transfer the weight
to the rear... in your case.. you dont need it

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Why does the front suspension need to go to full droop? I ordered my front Afcos short on purpose.

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Because some cars need all the the front movement to
get the front up high enough to transfer the weight
to the rear... in your case.. you dont need it

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And these aren't motocrossers, where the dampers are designed to be the travel limiters, as well as the movement controllers.

Putting the full extension load on the damper itself w/ comparatively "spindly" shocks like we're talking about here is asking for the piston to get damaged when the full extension point is slammed into 'cuz the suspension is capable of moving even farther.

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When I installed my front Vi-king shocks,I also changed the upper mounts to eliminate the stud from the engine compartment to make room for different valve covers. With the mounts I fabricated,the shocks were short causing a "topping out" problem.Chris from Vi-king took the shocks back and installed a longer shaft so it would not top out when the front tires were in the air.They did this at NO CHARGE!!To me,the customer service at Vi-king is great.

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No Dom...........most THINK they need full droop to make their car work, because that is what they have been TOLD forever and a day. But seldom is that the case

Yes, I work on many fast, high dollar cars........but that is the smaller part of my customer base. I work on far more cars, just like guys on this board have.

Monte

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Not a racer just an et chaser but in the past at my slow azz level, my car liked more and quicker extension on the shocks and went quicker and faster but soon I`ll find out what it likes now..............

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When I installed my front Vi-king shocks,I also changed the upper mounts to eliminate the stud from the engine compartment to make room for different valve covers. With the mounts I fabricated,the shocks were short causing a "topping out" problem.Chris from Vi-king took the shocks back and installed a longer shaft so it would not top out when the front tires were in the air.They did this at NO CHARGE!!To me,the customer service at Vi-king is great.

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Personally I think the way this is pictured is the better way to go...........but gonna have to be honest. That mount looks a little flimsy, since without the T-bars, that mount is carrying the entire front weight of the car. What I have done in the past, is weld a piece of tubing across there, which ties the shock tower together and then hang tabs from that piece of tubing to mount the shock

Monte

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Stock front end,but a "j" bar is near the top of the bucket list.
Now that I have a handle on the carbs,I can turn my attention to the untuned shocks and try a few things with the cal tracs.

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if you buy shocks from Menscer, what does he start with? Afco, Strange???

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