I broke down and got a set of the updated TTI's to clear a Borgeson Box. Figured my 2" hit pretty much everything, so maybe the updated design would help.

This is how they look straight out of the box...



So, instead of being dented after you get them, they just do it for you now?

Is this really what they call a fix? Seems a little strange that this is the solution.

Lol

Did the 2" not have the denting to clear the TB's? They have to be there to clear the TB's on my car.

That's exactly how my second set came. The first set didn't have the middle dent- I had to add it.

Anyway, I don't see those dents as a restriction- or at least not one that matters.



Have you had a chance to test fit them yet?

2" came without "customizing"...

I should have put my R5 in with custom headers and been done with it.

If I was test fitting them, I probably would not be so bitter about all this. But, when you are paying somebody else to find out that the stuff the experts made is crap... it gets old real fast. I'll have more details next week on fitment.

Luckily mounts were made to their exact K member placement specs. So, if they don't fit, I swear I'm getting on a plane to CA.

send it back.... it got damaged in shipping!
Wow that's pretty bad! I'd be pissed! I'd expect more from TTI..... just sayin! We pay what? 3x what a Chevy owner would pay for parts and get that crap?

Yeah that's why I'm going to use Schumacher mounts instead of TTI mounts
Seeing that crap, I am half tempted to send my car to Doug Thorley's in SoCal to get a set of headers fabbed up for Gen 3 swaps
or get a custom set made, whatever is cheaper

My tti's had to be clearanced for the 1.22" bars.

If you don't have to take a hammer to it, it's not hot rodding.

Seriously, is the way those headers are routed the most clear path? As in there is absolutely no clearance for the tubes to go up, down, left, right and necessitate being dented?

I find it hard to believe even in an A body?
I'm sure it would not be as bad in B/E bodies, but damn
for the money you would expect they would get it right.

For the amount of money those tti-tubes always seem to cost they could at least provide a personal inscripted 2 lbs hammer to go with the header purchase...

I was under a car yesterday and saw a much better way to route the pipes(TTI's on it now), and then I realized something... I think they design their tubes to work with the factory Z bar on most applications. It leaves a lot of unused real estate on the hydraulic clutch / auto cars. I wonder how much better the stuff would fit if they just made it to fit auto/hydraulic clutch cars?

They have room for the Magnum starter too. I'm gonna use an 05 ram 2500 5.7/5spd starter which also makes a bunch more room.

72Swing..do you have some pics of the two starters side by side? Would like to see the size difference.

Good starter. Fits better than the adjustable one TTI used to recommend. Slides in and out easily.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-56029274aa

I can't take credit for the find- I learned of it on FABO as well.

re: TTI routing
At least on the a-bodies, TTI has a modified Z bar (or you have the option of doing it yourself).

re: custom headers
Performance welding if your on the west coast is worth a look and maybe a call. The website is Perfweld IIRC. Mark is no stranger to mopars as you can see on his website. Might even be have some experience with those big primaries. Stainless so less heat transfer and less rust. Price range is what you'ld expect for custom stainless.

Can you mount that on the driver side and use a 10.5" 130 tooth flywheel?

Trucks are driver side, and yes that is what I and Wade are using for flywheel.

That is quite a big difference in size! Now does a starter care about how many teeth are on a flywheel? I have a 143 tooth flywheel for the RR for my 440.

TTI says to use that starter with a 143t flywheel
that's why I asked my question