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383 oil pump/pressure issues #1709245
12/11/14 02:38 AM
12/11/14 02:38 AM
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midwest - USA
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69/70 Plymies Offline OP
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Q.#1...If an oil priming rod is used after a re-build and ran clockwise rather than counter-clockwise (like a 383 should), could the new oil pump be damaged?

Q.#2...Oil pressure at start-up was 40-42 psi and stays there even when warmed to operating temp. Is this adequate oil pressure? The oil is 10W40 and the pump is standard OE.

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709246
12/11/14 02:46 AM
12/11/14 02:46 AM
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Grand Prairie,Texas
stumpy Offline
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Running the pump backwards will not hurt anything and that pressure is fine.

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709247
12/11/14 02:47 AM
12/11/14 02:47 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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(1) no damage (it can turn either way) I'm assuming you did reverse it & get psi to prime both heads. (2) adequate but I would question the accuracy since it did not vary (not sayin it is bad but )


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: RapidRobert] #1709248
12/11/14 02:57 AM
12/11/14 02:57 AM
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midwest - USA
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69/70 Plymies Offline OP
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Hello RapidRobert. Yes, I did get oil to both heads.

Installed new Stewart/Warner oil gauge. However, just had a thought. I just hooked up the new copper tubing to the back of the gauge. Is there a need to first "prime" the tubing with oil to remove the air from the line to get accurate oil pressure readings?

I was hoping for 50-60 psi since it's a new re-build. Isn't the pressure going to go down from here as it gets more miles on it? So, later on it may get in the 30's if it's truly at 40-42psi, now. Tech info. states 45-65psi is correct for '70 383HP. Just want to drive knowing I'm not doing any damage.

Last edited by 69/70 Plymies; 12/11/14 03:16 AM.
Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709249
12/11/14 03:09 AM
12/11/14 03:09 AM
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Memphis
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the air in the line wont hurt a thing


Take care,
Rick
68 Coronet R/T 440 & 68 Charger 528 Hemi,and 5 Challengers! 6 cyl, 318, 360, 383, 451
Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709250
12/11/14 03:16 AM
12/11/14 03:16 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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Quote:

Hello RapidRobert. Yes, I did get oil to both heads.
Is there a need to first "prime" the tubing with oil to remove the air from the line to get accurate oil pressure readings?


No, you will see bubbles in any clear tubing for oil pressure or low fuel pressure tubing, air compress and pushes like it is a soild when compressed Did you buy a standard oil pump for a stock 383 or did you buy HP or high volume oil pump that fits all BB Mopars? the HP or high volume will have a high pressure bypass spring in them the stock non HP pumps won't I belive in and follow the ten pounds per thousand RPM rule when the oil is hot, if it has ten lbs or more at 1000 RPM and 20 lbs above 2000 RPM and so on your good in my book My last pump gas 518 C.I. 400 block stroker motor had 18 lbs at 850 RPM idling in gear with a solid roller cam that oiled the rockers full time with 5W20 wt oil at or above 180 F It worked fine with no issues at all It would have 65 to 70 lbs idling at start up depedning on the outside air temps at start up, IE oil temps in the motor The hotter the oil got the lower the idle oil pressure went EDITED, I reread your first post, a stock pump should not keep the same pressure all the time, it should vary like any and every other oil pump out there Me thinks it is time to try another oil pressure gauge I had a situation on a old M.W. car I bought that had set for long time before I bought it, I tried to prime it and the oil pressure gauge show nothing on it, I ended up removing the small copper oil ressure line from the block and found that it had a piece of thick gease blocking the small line, it definitily had pressure to the line before by having the drill motor slow down when the oil pump picked the oil up from the pan, it shot oil out two or three feet from the back of the block with the line disconnected IHTHs

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 12/11/14 03:34 AM.
Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: Cab_Burge] #1709251
12/11/14 03:20 AM
12/11/14 03:20 AM
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ademon Offline
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seems like the psi should move a little, i had a hi psi spring in a stock pump and i had 45 idle and 75 over 1,800 or so hot. Maybe your relief spring is stuck.

Last edited by ademon; 12/11/14 03:21 AM.
Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: Cab_Burge] #1709252
12/11/14 03:26 AM
12/11/14 03:26 AM
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midwest - USA
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69/70 Plymies Offline OP
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Cab Burge,
The oil pump is the the standard pump for stock 383. Weather here is suppose to get close to 50 F. this weekend, so will probably fire it up again to see what is reads.

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: ademon] #1709253
12/11/14 03:32 AM
12/11/14 03:32 AM
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midwest - USA
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ademon,
Did you put the high psi spring in or did you discover the factory had?

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709254
12/11/14 03:43 AM
12/11/14 03:43 AM
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ademon Offline
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no it had the standard spring 40 hot idle and 58 at over 2K. The hi psi spring was worth a few psi at idle and almost 20 over at anything over idle.

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709255
12/11/14 06:19 AM
12/11/14 06:19 AM
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Newport, Mi
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Quote:

Q.#1...If an oil priming rod is used after a re-build and ran clockwise rather than counter-clockwise (like a 383 should), could the new oil pump be damaged?





Not likely, but certainly possible. Most pumps are shipped dry, with only a light coating of rust inhibitor, which is not a lubricant. If it was installed without dumping some oil in it, or better yet, dis-assembled and filled with assembly lube, running it backwards (dry) could possibly gall the end plate or rotors. So while I would think it would take several minutes to cause damage, you asked if damage was POSSIBLE- yes, it is.


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Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: Evil Spirit] #1709256
12/11/14 08:48 AM
12/11/14 08:48 AM
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Keizer, Oregon U.S.A.
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elmor353 Offline
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I put a high pressure spring in a new pump and put it on a 400 I acquired. Someone had rebuilt the engine, but didn't replace the worn cam bearings. I finally replaced it with a high volume pump and sold the car. I boxed up the pump and a few months later installed it on a fresh motor. I had 2 new oil filters rupture around the seals before I realized what was causing it. Put a stock spring back in the pump and all was well. Sure made a mess when the filters exploded!

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: elmor353] #1709257
12/11/14 12:14 PM
12/11/14 12:14 PM
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stock 1/2 groove mains with stock rod and main bearing clearances, stock pump with the red relief spring will be around 45psi and should maintain that pressure.

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709258
12/22/14 12:12 AM
12/22/14 12:12 AM
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midwest - USA
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Quote:

Cab Burge,
The oil pump is the the standard pump for stock 383. Weather here is suppose to get close to 50 F. this weekend, so will probably fire it up again to see what is reads.




Well, finally got to drive it today. The oil pressure was 45psi at startup (cold idle) and 20psi after warmup (hot idle). Going down the road at 55mph pressure was 44-45psi. Do these look ok to everyone?

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709259
12/22/14 12:13 AM
12/22/14 12:13 AM
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That looks about right.

Sheldon

Re: 383 oil pump/pressure issues [Re: 69/70 Plymies] #1709260
12/22/14 12:31 AM
12/22/14 12:31 AM
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St. Charles, MO
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Quote:

Quote:

Cab Burge,
The oil pump is the the standard pump for stock 383. Weather here is suppose to get close to 50 F. this weekend, so will probably fire it up again to see what is reads.




Well, finally got to drive it today. The oil pressure was 45psi at startup (cold idle) and 20psi after warmup (hot idle). Going down the road at 55mph pressure was 44-45psi. Do these look ok to everyone?




Looks fine. Enjoy it!


1969 Dodge Coronet Super Bee 383 A4
1970 Plymouth Road Runner 440 FC7 (sold)






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