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D series for towing
#1706833
12/05/14 12:38 PM
12/05/14 12:38 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR
OP
top fuel
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OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
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I have been looking around for a '70's -'80s 2WD D series truck as an occasional tow rig/hauler/rolling project.
I'd be towing a 3,000 + lb Duster on an open trailer (rented/borrowed) a few times a year to the track. I live on Long Island, the nearest track is ETown which is 80 miles one way. There are no mountain ranges to contend with here, just highways. A few other tracks are a little longer but those would only be once or twice a year at best; Lebanon Valley is around 3 hours from here and can get a little more hilly but nothing dramatic. I'd probably also head down to Carlisle in the summer.
Most of the SWB trucks I see on the market for 'cheap' ($2,500-$5,000) are generally 318 2bbl equipped. I have a 360 I could build but currently my budget is earmarked for other things so I'd prefer to find a decent running vehicle that could do the job reasonably.
I figure an anemic 318/727 combo would need gears to get going which would likely kill any mileage. I understand it's not the greatest combination for much of anything looking through a 2014 perspective but that's mostly what's out there.
Of course I'd need to make sure the brakes were good and install whatever trailer safety/efficiency items were needed for the best outcome.
So here's the main question; is it just plain dumb to try towing with one of these things? Should I just get a SWB out of my head and look for a long bed?
My gut tells me to find a long box but I really like the short trucks, there's just something about them.
Thanks for the input.
Greg
'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: RMCHRGR]
#1706834
12/05/14 04:33 PM
12/05/14 04:33 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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I will be using my '87 D100 as my tow vehicle for the Ramcharger. It is 318 / 727 equipped and I have installed a E-brock #2176 intake and a #1406 600 cfm carb and have replaced all the LeanBurn stuff. It has P245/75R16 tires with a 3.21 geared 8.25" rear, not the best for towing. I have a built Dana 60-2 with 4.10 gears in my shop that is destined for the truck and that should be all I need to make this the answer for my towing needs. My old daily driver was a 2002 2500 short bed QuadCab with a CTD and 6 speed. It was great for towing the 8,000# travel trailer and I miss it, but the maintenance was very expensive for what I used it for, that trailer is gone now and I am going to stick with the gas rigs from now on. One thing I noticed about the short bed was that while towing the ride was less comfortable than with the long bed even with the load distributing hitch. 
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction
1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver.
2008 Honda Element
2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: Polarapete]
#1706835
12/05/14 05:20 PM
12/05/14 05:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
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My '64Dog is a D100 longbed, which in 1964 had a 122" wheelbase. The next year it increased to 128.
I have towed for thousands of miles with a 318 and either 3.91s or 3.23s, most with a 32" tall tire. My 8 3/4 is the 741 case. Here are my observations.
Towing with a half-ton is problematic because the trailer ends up ateering the truck. For one thing, the springs aren't that strong and allow side-to-side movement between axle and frame. In my situation I also blame the shorter wheelbase because the longer distance between axle and bumper gives the trailer more leverage. I usually end up setting rear tire pressure at 75psi to eliminate flex. But, with a normal size car, say 3500lb, I have to limit speed to around 55. Anything faster is just too shaky. And that's on the flats, although Long Island is, as you say, pretty flat.
About the engine, I towed with the stock poly 318 with 2-barrel but dual exhaust. I wasn't winning any drag races but it would get me going faster than I was comfortable with. And going up the Front Range of the Rockies, I was in Second gear with the loaded semis.
For towing I wouldn't worry too much about the power, much more about the chassis. For towing with a shortbed, I know people tow with Ramchargers, and they are pretty short.
If you could find a shortbed in "heavy half-ton" configuration, that may be the best you can do. You're at sea level and I'd say for occasional towing a 3.55 rear should be adequate. Again, those gears are not hard to find under Ramchargers in 9 1/4 rears. Or, going back in time, in 8 3/4s under many half-tons with manual transmissions.
People here will have you driving a one-ton Diesel Ram to tow three times a year, so don't pay them much attention. It's easy to spend someone else's money. As long as you are willing to go slow, it'll work. Oh, and a good set of trailer brakes will cover a multitude of braking problems. I've never had any problems with my stock drums.
R.
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: dogdays]
#1706837
12/05/14 06:24 PM
12/05/14 06:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
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Quote:
My '64Dog is a D100 longbed, which in 1964 had a 122" wheelbase. The next year it increased to 128.
I have towed for thousands of miles with a 318 and either 3.91s or 3.23s, most with a 32" tall tire. My 8 3/4 is the 741 case. Here are my observations.
Towing with a half-ton is problematic because the trailer ends up ateering the truck. For one thing, the springs aren't that strong and allow side-to-side movement between axle and frame. In my situation I also blame the shorter wheelbase because the longer distance between axle and bumper gives the trailer more leverage. I usually end up setting rear tire pressure at 75psi to eliminate flex. But, with a normal size car, say 3500lb, I have to limit speed to around 55. Anything faster is just too shaky. And that's on the flats, although Long Island is, as you say, pretty flat.
About the engine, I towed with the stock poly 318 with 2-barrel but dual exhaust. I wasn't winning any drag races but it would get me going faster than I was comfortable with. And going up the Front Range of the Rockies, I was in Second gear with the loaded semis.
For towing I wouldn't worry too much about the power, much more about the chassis. For towing with a shortbed, I know people tow with Ramchargers, and they are pretty short.
If you could find a shortbed in "heavy half-ton" configuration, that may be the best you can do. You're at sea level and I'd say for occasional towing a 3.55 rear should be adequate. Again, those gears are not hard to find under Ramchargers in 9 1/4 rears. Or, going back in time, in 8 3/4s under many half-tons with manual transmissions.
People here will have you driving a one-ton Diesel Ram to tow three times a year, so don't pay them much attention. It's easy to spend someone else's money. As long as you are willing to go slow, it'll work. Oh, and a good set of trailer brakes will cover a multitude of braking problems. I've never had any problems with my stock drums.
R.
Thanks, very informative. Yeah, it's true, many of the posts you read through have the ubiquitous "I wouldn't tow a lawn tractor with anything less than a dually CTD 5th wheel".
Anyway.. would stiffer/higher rated springs mitigate some of that rear sway and be able to level the load a little better? That's a relatively easy thing to do. I know some use those spring helper things but they seem like a band aid.
What about a rear sway bar and a sway control for the trailer? Most modern trucks have rear sway bars. I used to deal with them all the time when I was a tech.
Obviously the longer wheelbase offers some extra degree of stability but I guess the main question is it that much better with the extra two feet? It's almost as if you're adding more mass to get the stability and the brakes/power are still largely the same. Guess that's the trade-off.
Around here, I'd mostly be concerned with sudden stops, high volume traffic and oblivious morons. I imagine once you are rolling and everything is working properly it's no problem.
I drove my Duster to the track last season through NYC. I stayed in the left lane and left ample room in front of me. Not the most fun I've had in my car but I made it without issue.
'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1706839
12/05/14 06:58 PM
12/05/14 06:58 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
JSR1485
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
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You could tow your Duster with a Dakota extended cab or Durango also.
Put a after market trans cooler in it and your good to go.
The trailer has 4 wheel brakes and your only looking at a tongue weight of 500lbs or less.
Switched to the dark side...
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: JSR1485]
#1706840
12/05/14 08:49 PM
12/05/14 08:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
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As long as the trailer brakes are up to par, and everything on the truck functions like it should, I don't see any reason you should have any problems towing your Duster with a SWB Dodge. Lots of these trucks towed lots of stuff for a lot of years. A step up in shocks & springs helps everything.
That said, the long wheel base does add to stability, and helps reduce the feeling of the tail wagging the dog that can occur when the truck weight and trailer & load weight near each other. A 3/4 ton adds even more stability, because of the extra truck weight, bigger brakes & heavier springs. I've probably towed trailers over 100,000 miles without the need of rear sway bars on my trucks. Figure out how to properly load the trailer. They probably help, but i never felt a need for them.
A 318 with 3:21 or 3:55 gears has enough power to get you moving and keep you moving along, but don't be fooled into thinking only the truck brakes are enough, you also need functioning trailer brakes. Add a big trans cooler. Gene
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: poorboy]
#1706841
12/05/14 09:00 PM
12/05/14 09:00 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 41
Maryland
regularjay
member
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member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 41
Maryland
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Look at what people used for towing for the last 100 years (minus the most recent 20) America was built by guys towing stuff with less than 200 HP and crappy drum brakes at all 4 corners. Yes newer stuff has better everything (but style) but your father & grandfathers generation got by just fine.
79 Lil Red Express - I'll finish it someday
94 2wd Ram 1500 5.9 Donor for...???
78 CJ7 4.2 with Clifford Cam, Holley 390, 4" on 33's
1992 W250 Cummins
2013 Ram 4X4 Hemi Crew Express
2005 Ex Cab Dakota 4x4 4.7 Daily Driver
1993 2wd Ramcharger 5.2/auto
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: QuickDodge]
#1706844
12/06/14 12:34 PM
12/06/14 12:34 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR
OP
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OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
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Thanks for all the replies.
I figure towing with a swb is doable as long as there is an eye towards safety. I understand it's not the best platform to start with. I can't really rationalize it any other way except that I prefer the short beds over the longer ones.
Who knows though, I may actually end up with a long bed if I run across one that I like. Of course I'd want to find the best vehicle I could within my budget but knowing full well some of the equipment will need to be updated no matter what condition it's all in, short or long bed.
I came up with a few things to add to the budget beyond the initial purchase of the truck; brakes (rebuild/upgrade), springs, trailer accessories, (load leveler, trailer brake controller, sway control), HD trans cooler, tires. Can anyone add anything else that I should be thinking about?
'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: RMCHRGR]
#1706845
12/06/14 02:02 PM
12/06/14 02:02 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,494
Western Colorado High Desert
moparmarks
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,494
Western Colorado High Desert
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Nothing wrong with a D100 or D200 for your use. I've towed a lot of cars with my 97 Dakota just not over the mountains.
As stated before install a trailer brake controller and have good working trailer brakes which is required by law anywho. Auto tranny with a good cooler is fine but having that granny gear on a 4-speed is nice for taking off with a load.
72 Satellite Sebring Plus 440, 72 Dart 5.9 4-spd, 68 Valiant, 73 W200, 78 D100 sb, 78 D200, 98 DAKOTA, . Moparmarks Parts & Restorations Desert Mopar Metal Grand Jct. CO 970-261-7039 http://moparmark.com/motormangj@gmail.com
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: moparmarks]
#1706847
12/07/14 01:49 PM
12/07/14 01:49 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
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D series is no issues as stated, but I would really look into a long bed. As mentioned, a long bed or ext cab short bed Dakota (what I had previously) will also work just fine and be more stable---trust me, if nothing else, stability is most important next to stopping.
And if you have a 5K budget, why not look at a mid 90's BR series Ram. You can get the same great motors (albeit a Magnum version--better IMO) and fuel injection. I have a '95 long bed that I strictly use for towing and Home Depot runs, or if one of the other daily drivers is down. I will rebuild it to the end as it is dependable and at least in upstate NY, OBD II exempt on inspections.
Outcast Dodge guy.
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: 85_Ram_4speed]
#1706848
12/07/14 02:23 PM
12/07/14 02:23 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020
Pangaea
B5 Bee
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020
Pangaea
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I tow with an '84 D100, RC, SB, 225, 833od. I de-smogged the motor, installed a Super Six 2bbl and a 2.25 exhaust without catyl convts.
Trailer weighs 1900lb, car 3000lb, takes a bit to get to speed but otherwise tows fine. I have towed a 5000lb JD tractor a short distance (10 miles). Trailer has 4 wheel brakes, truck uses 5000lb receiver hitch without load distribution bars. I adjust the load so I have ~10% tongue weight.
With the original 8.25 rear and 3.21 gear, it was hard to get it rolling. Now with a 8.75 rear and 3.91SG, taking off is not a problem, unless it's a very steep incline.
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Re: D series for towing
[Re: wally426ci]
#1706851
12/08/14 07:52 PM
12/08/14 07:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
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Quote:
Also think about the early trucks having 4 drums. It may not be terrible for random towing but the brakes aren't that amazing in an empty Sweptline, let alone towing....
That's the reason nearly everyone is stating "good trailer brakes". A car on a trailer with good trailer brakes can resolve many car hauling issues quickly and efficiently, as long as the load is correctly positioned and properly tied onto the trailer.
Getting the load moving is not nearly as important as stopping it, and keeping things in line going down the road. If you can't get it to move, it likely won't hurt you, if you can't get it to stop, it can kill you. Gene
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