68 Charger Axle Play
#1701677
11/22/14 01:33 AM
11/22/14 01:33 AM
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California
Edahlke
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OP
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 32
Santa Barbara, California
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Hi All,
I am doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 68 Charger using a kit from Summit. The previous owner already had a conversion done, and it was using calipers and pads from a mid 70s Lincoln Mark IV, so there are already some Ford parts on there. You can see from the picture the part that the Calipers bolted into. I cut part of that off with an angle grinder, as it got in the way of the parts that came with the Summit kit.
I was able to install new inner axle seals and the disc brake conversion kit, however the passenger side axle has about a quarter inch of play, which is causing a lot of problems when I try to drive it.
I tried doing the adjustment as described in the service manual, but wasn't having much success. As some work on the axle has already taken place, I'm not sure I even have the necessary parts to do the adjustment.
If anyone has any tips I would very much appreciate it, or if you can tell from my pictures if I'm missing anything. I'm having a hard time since there was already work done on it, and I don't know if I have all the parts I need. If I can't adjust the axle play correctly, I think I may just remove the tapered bearings and put on green bearings.
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701679
11/22/14 02:20 AM
11/22/14 02:20 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:
The previous owner already had a conversion done,
welcome aboard! As you know 1/4" ain't gonna cut it. Measure the axles & see if they have been shortened/maybe measure the housing. The 1/4 is coming from somewhere & we gotta find out where 1st. EDIT Are the sure grip 2 buttons/roll pin in place in the pig
Last edited by RapidRobert; 11/22/14 02:22 AM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701682
11/22/14 05:39 PM
11/22/14 05:39 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,230 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,230
Bend,OR USA
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The stock tapered Timken wheel bearings need very little(.003 to .008 or so), if any, end play. Think of the same type and brand bearings in the third member They have a ton of preload on them and live for ever. My message is to reduce the end play one way or the other As already mentioned the original clutch typ posi and the later cup and cone posi in the 8 3/4 used a set of floating pins or a floating block to set the axle end play How is the left side end play, the axle with no adjuster on it? Both sides need to be checked for total end play. Have you tried adjusting the end play with the stock adjuster yet? If not now is the time to try it Scerw it in to reduce the end play Don't we love after market parts BTW, the Green axle bearing kits that Dr Diff sells work good on the street, that may be your only viable option if you can't make the end play adjust like you want it I use them on my cars with spools in them on the street
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701685
11/26/14 08:23 PM
11/26/14 08:23 PM
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California
Edahlke
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OP
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 32
Santa Barbara, California
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I was able to work on my problem a bit today. I pulled the axle out and shined a flashlight down the tube and saw what appeared to be a thrust button. I tried fishing it out, but it just dropped down inside the differential housing. I adjusted the end play as much as possible, but still ended up with 1/4". Because of this, and like someone mentioned, I'm wondering if the bearings aren't pressed on all the way. I measured 25.25" from the end of the spline to the start of the bearings. I'm not sure if there is a spec for this. I was able to find a spec for the axle shaft length (end of spline to outside flange) of 29 3/16", and this measured fine on mine. Thanks a lot for the help and bearing with me!
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701687
11/26/14 09:31 PM
11/26/14 09:31 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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You would need to reinstall the thrust buttons but you had the problem before you took em out. Likely you could fish em up & out with a magnet on a pole and some string but I think you'd need the pig out to reinstall em. If the housing/axle length is unaltered & the thrust button(s) were in place then as you said I would take a somewhat closeup pic of the shaft/bearing area behind the flange at just the right distance & see if the dimentions/distances tells one of us something
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701691
11/27/14 12:24 AM
11/27/14 12:24 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,230 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,230
Bend,OR USA
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There are three pieces that make up the center floating axle end play adjuster, the two side peices and soft center piece that needs to be flattened or centered punch, swollen into place after the other two pieces are in the hole where they go Dr Diff on here sells that assembly new I use to use thick axle grease, wheel bearing grease, to hold the two center peices in before I knew where to get the soft center retaining piece The only bad thing about using the grease is the two center peices can stick to the axle ends when you pull the axles out the next time BTW, I use a long, powerful stick magnet now to remove those center pieces to avoid dropping them into the axle housing, like you had happened IHTHs My message is your not the first person to have them DANG center shoulder ends fall into the center section IHTHs
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play
[Re: Edahlke]
#1701695
11/27/14 11:21 PM
11/27/14 11:21 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I use a tailor made parts house 8&3/4 ring gasket as opposed to RTV (too messy on the next pig change). yes you need to change the new inner seal that is leaking. I pack the spring with grease to hold the spring in place and drive it in with a circular piece of round THICK stock/drift/BFH with as few strokes as possible as each stroke increases the chance of distorting the seal. As you drive it in if it starts to tilt then move the drift over to the high side & hit it a time or two to get it back even then move the drift back to center & continue. You want your piece of round stock the OD to be slightly less than the OD of the seal so it contacts it very near the perimeter (where it is strongest). If I plan on some pig changes I slightly oil the gasket and if not then I spray it with Permatex 99MA "high tack" the red thin spray gasket/glue. EDIT You're 1/4" off & from what I gather from Doc, backing plates are 1/8" & I'd mockup some 1/8 spacers under several of the bolts on each side to space the 5 hole retainer out 1/8 from the housing flange & see if you're good
Last edited by RapidRobert; 11/27/14 11:26 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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