Hey gang..
Wanted to share a cool tool a friend, Dave aka 68RRFlyer, made for me.. It's a dolly/cart for my hemi/tranny/k-member assembly. I'll be using this to hold the drivetrain and then lower the body on it..... one more step closer on the hemi Charger.......

Other side...

Looks very nice. Would you please post some pics w/ the K-frame off? Any rough measurements you could provide? I'm looking to make my own and would like to get an estimate for materials to purchase.

Sure... I'll try something before the end of the week.. I'll make sure it's ok with my friend who made it for me.. Don't wanna infringe on any future business plans..... He's a whip when it comes to this stuff and it's not even his profession.. Smart guy.

Is it setup for a coke bottle type jack for the transmission?

The jack is used to raise or lower the transmission during installation. It makes the procedure a lot easier.

Troy,

This is one I made for myself. I have a lift so I made this one a little higher to make it easier to work on. The K-frame sits on some teflon strips and I tack welded a scissor jack on the back to keep it from shifting around (Sandy Reda suggestion) It worked just fine and now it is looking for a new home...

Jim
68 Hemi Road Runner

Without the motor...

Jim, I lightened your picture up to show a little more detail.

Snoopy, thanks. Here is another shot from a different angle. I had to cut a small notch from the one side to clear the Milodon oil pan, it was one of those that has the triangle shaped pans and it required just a little extra room to fit.

Jim

Dolly in action!

How much do the ends of the k frame clear your runners on your lift? My lift is just like yours

That's like hunting squirrels with a howitzer.

You are absolutely correct about the K-frame interference. When I measured it out the K-frame is about 3" wider than the inner flange on the lift. I originally wanted to install the motor/K-frame with the rest of the front suspension in place which would have been easy with the 2 post design. I even considered moving the car forward on the lift to let the front section overhang enough to install everything. That idea did not last long as I had visions of the car tipping over off the lift... I looked at the design of the lift and thought "what a bummer" I just needed a few more inches to make it work. The lift has a 2" lower flange on the inboard side of each track that is used for holding the plastic drip trays. It came with a heavy tray to be used with a jack for lifting the car and I noticed that it did not sit on those inner flanges but rather it sat on the top of the track where the strength is at. The basic upside-down "U" shape of the track is the main structural designed support, and that is where all the strain would be and not on the inboard flanges. I decided that all I needed was a couple of reliefs notched into the flange and the K-frame would fit. It worked quite nicely and all I did was make a few slices and bent the 4" notches down with a pipe wrench. If you notice I had made a support for the Road Runner using the front bumper bracket mounts and some scrap steel which placed the weight at the very end of the track by the cross support of the lift. I tried to make the tracks flex by the area I cut since I still was concerned about the integrity but the tracks were still rock solid. When it came time to install the motor-trans/K-frame everything worked out great. I had about 1/4"-1/2" clearance on each side and the whole installation evolution lasted less than a half-hour from placing the rig under the car to the torque on the last bolt. Once that was done I just got the pipe wrench out again and a few C clamps and welded it back up again. I would not leave the notches permanent since I will need to drive the car across it, but for the short time I needed the extra room I saw no real harm. I'm sure the lift OEM would never endorse "any" mods to their products, but I'm only reporting what worked for me in my situation...

Jim
68 hemi Road Runner

I found one other picture that shows how close the K-frame fits between the tracks. I did not take a picture of the clearance at the closest point. Hope this helps others that may have the same issues using a 4 post lift to install the motor from underneath.

Jim

Yes, the jack is welded on the rig and the 2x4 is screwed in place to another bracket welded on the top of the jack.

Jim

WoW...Talk about over thinking of a simple job....
I guess if you have a fancy hoist and a welder and all the materials needed it would be easy to pull off such a indepth plan....

Myself I choose the simple route....I've done over a dozen cars in the last 15 years using the base of my engine stand, some towels, 2X4's and duct tape....

With the rear axle in the car, I simple raise the front end, slip the complete engine/trans/suspension in then lower the car using an engine hoist....
It's a one man job that take about 20mins...

Thanks Jim Great explanation and pics You're braver than me I see what you're saying, and don't think cutting the notches would hurt....but I just ain't got the kahones to do it to a brand new lift! I'll probably do a modified version of what Alan does,using the combination of my lift, a cart similar to what you have,and my forklift that I stumbled into at an el cheapo price BTW....nice lookin Roadrunner!

Troy,

I've got the Charger resting on the dolly now. Just have to undo the trans x-member bolts and the k-frame bolts and out it'll come. Tomorrow is hoisting day and I'll have pics on my website to showcase the whole process. The dowl pins went right in on the Charger's k-frame with no issues as well and the one on the RR. Not sure why your's was so tight. Anyrate, I'll email you tomorrow after the lift and let you know how it goes!

Cheers

Mine was done with a "low-tech" approach also, worked great by myself.

even my camera was "low-tech" at the time!!