I posted this question in the handling section, but thought I'd try here as well.

In order to get my CPP tube c arms in, I have to use a dead blow hammer front the tops of the mounting saddles. They're way too tight to install like an OE c arm.

Once home they are so tight, I can't imagine this not causing a negative effect on suspension travel.

Anyone else experience this with aftermarket c arms??

Thanks!

Correct me if I'm wrong but once you tighten the cam bolts they don't move anyway right.
Gus

and thats why final torque is achieved at ride height. Birdtracker

When you say C arms are you meaning the lower control arms on most Mopar A,B, E and C bodys with torsion bars If so they should move up and down freely with no torsion bars or front shocks install with the spindles, upper A arms all hook together I make sure mine do

Are they heim joints, poly or rubber bushings. Poly bushings and heim joints move freely the factory style is torsolastic (not sure on spelling) but those will be held tightly at ride height and just flex so if it does not move not a real problem. It would seem that all of them will be tight once you tighten bolts.

I have read this complaint here before and I would not be comfortable with a fit like that.

FWIW the sets of 2 Firm Feel arms I installed fit just like OEMs. And have held up great in 7 years of use in 2 cars for me so far.

Upper's Cab.

They are Poly bushings also. Which could explain why they feel so tight.

According to the answer I got from the vendor: "That's the way they're supposed to feel. And yes, a dead blow hammer is the best installation tool".

Hmmmmm...

I use Poly Bushings in my A arms and lower control arms on my street Duster, they moved up and down real freely before putting in the front shocks and torsion bars I did not try to collapse the outer brackets on the frame to the A arm bushings though by tightening the bolts through them I did use the special grease they supplied to assemble all the parts that they wanted that grease on

The grease was included in the kit I bought. I'm not sure if it was silicone based or what, sorry

If a dead blow will get them in I don't worry, never had problems yet. Use some lube. If you're doing the lower bushing as well - Do not tighten the LCA pin nut until after car is at ride height or you might tear the bushing.

Yeppers...final torque on upper and lowers after ride height is established.

Or more thing if you all don't mind: Aren't the ball joints laid back with the top towards the rear of the car??? I think these are labeled L and R backwards.

Thanks again all!

sorry having pic posting issues. I'll try again.

I called the vendor and confirmed that, yes...ubj should lean backwards with the top towards the rear of the car.

"Guess they're mislabeled".

See pic. Ignore the caliper mount on the front; I had only opened one brake box.

here's the pic right side up...lol

or not.

So the vendor tells me that must the R side on the L of the car. So I switch them...

NOPE, that's not right.

Should have kept the OE arms, I guess...