I'm contemplating doing a 493 build with using a spare '70 440hp block I have laying around. The problem is I don't have the main caps. Anyone know a good source to get them? I'm assuming I will have to also get the new stroker crank line bored to the new main caps.

Where do you guys prefer to get forged 493 stroker kits? The last stroker kit I bought was a Scat forged 408 kit from Summit. Their kits are pretty slim for a 493 last I checked.

Does the stock block need any clearancing for the 4.15" crank? I have a spare Milodon 8 qt pan w/windage tray...would it need any clearancing?
I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions during the build but right now the main caps and source for a good stroker kit are my 2 obstacles.

Thanks

You can buy caps from any of the major Mopar engine parts suppliers, you could go alum if you wanted.

The crank does not get linebored, the block does.

Go with a 4.25 stroke crank and use the 2.2 big end rods, more cubes and there are off the shelf pistons for it, less chance of needing to notch the block.

Kind of WAG here but I'm thinking stud the mains/aftermarket steel caps/line hone or bore (talk to your machinist)

I am going by memory but an option that I thought might work is to find some 400 main caps and have them align bored on the 440 block, I have never tried this but it looks like it might work. I believe the 400 caps will fit the 440 registers and also the 400 bearing notch is very deep and there might be enough of it left after the line bore to where you wouldn't have to renotch the cap for the bearing tang. Another area to look at is the thrust main cap if it will closely match the thrust surface in the block, just a thought.

Like JohnRR said go with the 4.25 stroke with big block chevy rod journal it's almost a drop in with virtually no grinding depending on what rod you use whereas the 4.15 stroke with big block chrysler rods usually needs grinding for clearance plus you have more weight and less cubic inches.

http://www.bcrproducts.com/

they have a kit, comes with girdle, studs, mains etc.
everything you need

stroker kits you can go with 440source or http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/

Ohio Crank is a good source for quality stroker kits.

The 400 cap on a 440 block is more trouble and expense than it's worth. It makes much more sense to use an aftermarket cap. It's as good a time as any to fit aluminum caps, that's probably what I'd do if faced with your problem.

It isn't every machine shop that can line BORE. Many have a line HONE which is a different animal. \

If you are buying a stroker kit it makes absolutely no sense to stay with the 2.375" rod journals. The selection of EVERYTHING is better with the BBC-sized crank and wrist pins. The only way I'd use the BBM rod journals is if I had a set of nice rods for that size already.

R.

Thanks guys.

Would the smaller journals create more stress on the bearings? What is the advantage of the aluminum caps?

using the 400 caps and boring them out, while dimensionally will work, is not the best idea. on a big block you definitely want to use a girdle if your stroking. and a block missing caps is no big deal, your going to want aftermarket caps anyway.

aluminum acts like a shock absorber in your bottom end to absorb some vibration. that being said you do want to back it up with a steel girdle.

the BCR products girdle kits we build and sell use arp studs for good clamping of the mains, and then the girdle is bolted down to the oil pan rail with its own studs and nuts, and then to the caps with its own studs and nuts. we don't use the main studs to clamp the girdle as well. this creates too much stack up on the stud. we also cnc the girdle plate and nuts on the oil pan rail are countered bored into the plate. to bolt the oil pan on we supply a second nut, so if you ever want to remove just the pan you can. all of our components are made in the USA including our materials.

Great info, I had no idea the aluminum caps acted like a shock absorber.

When I get closer to actually figuring out what exactly I want to do I know 2 people to call now.

I used the 440Source 4.15 stroker kit with their billet steel main caps and ARP main studs on my 440/493 build. Its a street car that only sees the track once or twice a year so I went with the steel caps. I had it lined bored and its been working and holding up great in my 63. The only clearance I did was by the oil pump intake where the screen tube screws into the block. It cleared but was close so I worked it some for more clearance. Been in my car since June 2011 with many street miles and a fair amount of track passes. Ron

Thanks for the info and pic. I absolutely love your '63

I just finished building a bracket race 440 with Ohio Crankshaft CO. 4.300 stroke crank with a set of Molnar 7.100 long BB Chevy type forged steel H beam rods and Diamond pistons with a set of 440 Source aluminum main cap and thier ARP main stud kit. My machine shop love the 440 Source main caps and studs, no hassle on the install or machine work I've never been a fan of aluminum main caps but there are a bunch of other racers and engine builder on here that have and I have not really heard any bad mouthing on them from any one on here that I respect and trust I use to use the Mopar brand ductile iron main caps on any build that I expected to get at or above 600 HP and similar torque. Mopar doesn't offer those caps any more so I went the 440 Source aluminum cap kit on ths build, no regrets Good luck, go for the 4.25 stroke crank with the BB Chevy 2.200 rod journal sizes and save yourself a bunch of headaches and grinding 4.300 stroker cranks work well also