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Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
#1683417
10/08/14 04:39 PM
10/08/14 04:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
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Portage,michigan
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Just kinda deciding what upgrades I want to make to my Duster over the winter.
Currently have a huge battery under the hood, probably 60-70 pounds I would guess.
Wondering if I would see any gains by moving it to the trunk. Already have iron heads up in front, so my thinking is getting some weight off the nose might show a slight increase in 60 foot consistency?
Worthwhile mod for a street strip car?
Also thinking about swap to manual steering and maybe electric water pump as well want to pick up a couple of tenths
, and not change the street ability of the car.
Sending my junk carb out to get sorted out, I expect to see something on the ET slip from that hopefully.
Last edited by B3422W5; 10/08/14 04:45 PM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683418
10/08/14 04:50 PM
10/08/14 04:50 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,317
State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 19,317
State of confusion
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Absolutely worth it and the new Challengers, BMW`s and I`m sure others do it from the factory plus your big azz(your words  )might need the ballast............  I did the elec. water pump and manual box deal years ago w/no regrets so far............ 
Last edited by Thumperdart; 10/08/14 04:56 PM.
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: ProSport]
#1683420
10/08/14 05:31 PM
10/08/14 05:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
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Quote:
I vote we put the battery AND Don Gentry in the trunk, then I can drive!! 
Ha ha...... You put my blubber and that battery in the trunk it would be a wheel stander even with a stock slant 6 in it  
bob.... You getting close on your car ?
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683421
10/08/14 06:05 PM
10/08/14 06:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
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I would not put the battery in the back.When you do,then you have to add the cutoff switch,all the extra wiring...simpler to keep it where it is.Look at a lot of the stock eliminator cars..battery is up front.
I would change to manual steering,but think about the electric water pump.
I'm putting my car back on the street and am changing race stuff back to street duty,electric pump drive was the first thing to go.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: Chris2581]
#1683422
10/08/14 06:16 PM
10/08/14 06:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266
Renton Washington
Triple Threat
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,266
Renton Washington
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Quote:
I would not put the battery in the back.When you do,then you have to add the cutoff switch,all the extra wiring...simpler to keep it where it is.Look at a lot of the stock eliminator cars..battery is up front.
Stockers are required to have a battery in the factory location, so thats why you see them there. Lots of those same stockers will have a battery in the truck for weight distribution as well.
I think you're on the right track with those mods Don. I wouldn't hesitate to do any of those. Power steering is nice though if its a true street car.
Last edited by Triple Threat; 10/08/14 06:17 PM.
-Dustin
67 Dart, 9 second, 392" G3 Hemi
68 Barracuda 340 F/SA
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: Triple Threat]
#1683423
10/08/14 06:20 PM
10/08/14 06:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
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Yep and I see a lot that do not have a second battery in the trunk.They use a Honda sized battery,usually a Optima.IMHO..simplicity always will work best.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683424
10/08/14 06:30 PM
10/08/14 06:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,008
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,008
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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Have you done a lot of work on the suspension for weight transfer? If there is anything to go after, I would work on that first. Then if your 60s aren't repeating like a machine, consider the battery move. Weight distribution is a funny thing. Too little power, and the car can't hook if it is nose heavy. Too much launch power, and you sometimes have to go backwards and move weight forward.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: gregsdart]
#1683425
10/08/14 06:39 PM
10/08/14 06:39 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,464
Sydney,Australia
tex013
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,464
Sydney,Australia
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Why don't you simply fit a lighter battery in front ?
I run a Odyssey battery in my 68 Satellite , is about 1/2 the weight of a stock battery and keeps it right near the starter motor for short run battery cables . This car is a daily driver .
I did recently swap out the power steering , good weight loss and et gain plus 1 less thing to go wrong .
Tex
New best ET 10.259@129.65 .
New best MPH 130.32
Finally fitted a solid cam,
stepped it up a bit more
3690lbs through the mufflers
New World block 3780lbs 10.278@130.80 . Wowser 10.253@130.24 footbraking from 1500rpm
Power by Tex's Automotive
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: gregsdart]
#1683426
10/08/14 06:43 PM
10/08/14 06:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
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Quote:
Have you done a lot of work on the suspension for weight transfer? If there is anything to go after, I would work on that first. Then if your 60s aren't repeating like a machine, consider the battery move. Weight distribution is a funny thing. Too little power, and the car can't hook if it is nose heavy. Too much launch power, and you sometimes have to go backwards and move weight forward.
Frankly, no I haven't.
The 60 foot in the first couple of outings has gotten at times in line with the ET of the car, but moves around more than I want.
I am using drag radials, with little under 500 horse in a fairly heavy car. I am probably all wet, but my thoughts are that placing the battery in the trunk, and replacing the extremely short tires on the front(24 inch) with 26 inch will reduce the excessive rake the car has, and provide more bite at the rear. Car just seems to not overcome the rake and transfer weight. I have plenty of travel in the front, but the car never gets "level".
The short tires were on the front when I bought it, but with the addition of 002/003 leafs it's more pronounced.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: cudadoug]
#1683430
10/08/14 07:24 PM
10/08/14 07:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
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Quote:
I'd lose those 002/003 springs and have the Caltrac/spring deal going on. Yes, taller front tires will help and you'll gain rollout and thus a gain in ET.
About the battery? Here's what I'm going to do in my street/stripper rather than move it to the trunk:
http://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/
I am old school, my old car ran 9's on 002/003 leafs with a small tire and I could dial the car blindfolded. Not a big cal trac fan. At this current cars power level these leafs are well more than adequate( and I just put them on it) ....lol
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683431
10/08/14 07:59 PM
10/08/14 07:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
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here is what it looks like....white Duster about 5 or 6 pairs in...don't pay attention to my light, its obvious I didn't...lol... looks like the front comes up OK, but cant overcome the rake....so car tends to skate, not bite??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH0vZ0ADnZk&list=UUxhGycX7uGyNsbJVc1euNPQ
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: scottb]
#1683432
10/08/14 08:07 PM
10/08/14 08:07 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
1967dartgt
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,978
Hilltown Pa
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I am moving mine back to the front from the trunk. Need weight on the nose.
Brett Miller W9 cnc'd heads
STR Chassis fabraction
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: RobX4406]
#1683435
10/08/14 08:49 PM
10/08/14 08:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
B3422W5
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
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Quote:
Can you lower the rear? That's where I would start.
Tires inside the wells and drop it down.
Looks like it raises the front OK.
The rear tires aren't as far out as it appears. They are actually inside the wheel lip. It's not minitubbed, so if I try and tuck the tire in any more it will cause problems with rubbing the springs to the inside.
I currently have the torsion bars cranked almost all the way up in the front because of the short fronts.... For ground clearance on the street with that huge super stock pan.
Once I put a taller tire on the front I can lower the tbars a good bit and keep same clearance in the front I have.
I bought these 002/003 springs used from a buddy who raced them on his Duster a few years and went to cal tracs.... They do seem to have more arch than I remember my old car with them having..... But maybe not 
Will see how it sits with new fronts and tbars lowered.... But it sure looks goofy now
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: RobX4406]
#1683436
10/08/14 09:30 PM
10/08/14 09:30 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267
North, Alabama
D-50
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267
North, Alabama
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Quote:
Can you lower the rear? That's where I would start.
Tires inside the wells and drop it down.
Looks like it raises the front OK.
I had the same springs on my Demon and it raised the rear to high for me and I put 2 in. lowering blocks under it and it made a big difference. I had a best 60 ft. of 1.36 on a 100 shot NOS it was spinning before I did that.
1.33 60 ft,6.21 at 110.59 in the 1/8, pump gas small block,2950lbs,drag radials,mufflers and driven to track ...
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: 383man]
#1683440
10/09/14 02:24 AM
10/09/14 02:24 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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I moved my battery to the trunk a while back and I'm glad I did it. I like extra room and clean look under the hood, and it lends some weight to the "strip" side of the "street / strip" vibe I'm going for. I used 1g cable on the hot side, and 2g on the neg. side, with a heavy duty waterproof Summit rotary switch at the bumper just to the right of the license plate. I also used a Taylor vented stainless battery box so I'll never have issues at tech.
I don't know that I needed the weight transfer advantage in an 11-second car, but it does hook with no issues.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683444
10/10/14 09:54 PM
10/10/14 09:54 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,206
New York
polyspheric
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,206
New York
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The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.
The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.
Boffin Emeritus
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: Leigh]
#1683445
10/10/14 10:55 PM
10/10/14 10:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Quote:
Beautiful pic of your car, Ron.
Thank you.  Ron
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683447
10/11/14 06:20 AM
10/11/14 06:20 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,245
Between a rock & a hard place
cudadoug
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,245
Between a rock & a hard place
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Quote:
Quote:
I'd lose those 002/003 springs and have the Caltrac/spring deal going on. Yes, taller front tires will help and you'll gain rollout and thus a gain in ET.
About the battery? Here's what I'm going to do in my street/stripper rather than move it to the trunk:
http://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/
I am old school, my old car ran 9's on 002/003 leafs with a small tire and I could dial the car blindfolded. Not a big cal trac fan. At this current cars power level these leafs are well more than adequate( and I just put them on it) ....lol
Old school is cool, just making a suggestion. But...I can tell you that once upon a time I gained .07 in 60 by adding 2" lowering blocks to the same same springs and going to a 27" front tire from a 25" version.
I wasn't smart enough to know what I was doing ET wise. I just didn't want the John Deere look...
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: polyspheric]
#1683448
10/11/14 01:21 PM
10/11/14 01:21 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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Quote:
The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.
The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.
Assuming your numbers/calcs are correct and they seem to be and I agree with the conclusions, there is another impact to consider besides just a straight line forces one might consider in moving a battery, a rear mounted battery can be mounted often lower, lowering the COG, and if any cornering/handling goals are desired, there are some benefits to be found having a battery in front of rear axle, closer to f/r COG regarding yaw forces. 
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: jcc]
#1683449
10/11/14 02:31 PM
10/11/14 02:31 PM
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
1964superstock
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 506
Utah, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.
The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.
Assuming your numbers/calcs are correct and they seem to be and I agree with the conclusions, there is another impact to consider besides just a straight line forces one might consider in moving a battery, a rear mounted battery can be mounted often lower, lowering the COG, and if any cornering/handling goals are desired, there are some benefits to be found having a battery in front of rear axle, closer to f/r COG regarding yaw forces.
This all my be true, but if you do it the safest correct way to install a battery in the trunk, it is a ton of work and expensive. I just finished installing a battery in the trunk job, and will NEVER do it again. Unless you are building a drag only car looking for a slight gain in traction, or whatever, I would forget about it. Just install a lightweight battery up front. The actual performance gains with the battery in the trunk for a street/strip car are very little in my opinion, mostly for looks, but a huge PITA. My opinion since you asked.
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: B3422W5]
#1683451
10/11/14 04:38 PM
10/11/14 04:38 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
RMCHRGR
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,890
Spahn Ranch
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Street/strip car here, my battery is in the trunk. Taylor 4 pole switch under the r/s bumper. Bought the car with it like this but completely rewired it after I went to an internally regulated Denso 60a alternator.
Went through a lot of jive to get it wired right with a cut off switch and alternator. Ended up using two solenoids, one for the long positive cable so it's 'only hot when cranking' and one continuous duty solenoid for the alternator so the switch turns it off. All my dash wiring goes through the disconnect too.
Ran my big B+ wire through the wiring trough on the driver's side and under the carpet. Goes through a grommet in the firewall and to the starter. I used a second relay up front to activate the starter with the ignition switch. Was a little complicated but it works.
I used a 'buss bar' from Mad Electrical on the firewall to tie things together that go from the front to the back. Works good and provides a spot for B+ when the system is on. Things like test equipment, timing light etc.
I have a couple #4 ground wires too, one bolted from the back of the r/s head that goes to the front sub frame and one from the battery to the rear chassis.
I have a few pics if needed.
'71 Duster
'17 Ram 1500
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: RMCHRGR]
#1683452
10/11/14 05:14 PM
10/11/14 05:14 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
dragram440
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,058
bigfork mn
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I would do all those mods and not even think twice. The weight of the cable isnt that much and being towards the back doesnt hurt. I also wouldnt hesitate on the elctric water pump, There is nothing better in my opinion. They cool the car good and when you shut it off at the ice cream shop you dont have to get back in with 230 degree temps. As far as cal tracs I think people tend to use them on applications that dont really need them. My car makes pretty good torque and horspower and I just have a set of the xhd springs and a pinion snubber and it hooks on wet grass with 275 drag radials.
67' charger 499 RB
10.57 at 127
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: forphorty]
#1683454
10/14/14 08:20 AM
10/14/14 08:20 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,843
MI, usa
dvw
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,843
MI, usa
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Quote:
I would be interested in how much all that extra cable weighs.
My Optimas weigh 45lbs each. 0/2 copper, not 2/0 was used in my build, it weighed a total of 7lbs. Minus what ever the stock stuff was. Obviously mine is over twice as thick as factory stuff.
Doug
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Re: Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?
[Re: jcc]
#1683455
10/14/14 08:56 AM
10/14/14 08:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
Moparmal
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,943
Melbourne.....Oz-land
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Quote:
Quote:
The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.
The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.
Assuming your numbers/calcs are correct and they seem to be and I agree with the conclusions, there is another impact to consider besides just a straight line forces one might consider in moving a battery, a rear mounted battery can be mounted often lower, lowering the COG, and if any cornering/handling goals are desired, there are some benefits to be found having a battery in front of rear axle, closer to f/r COG regarding yaw forces.
And of course its not just about fore/aft distribution or COG
Placing a heavy battery over or behind the right rear wheel adds ballast where it's most needed - because its the RIGHT side wheel that tries to " pick up" due to the inertial counterforce of the pinion against the crown wheel.
(Same reason a single spinner always breaks the right tyre loose....)
Placing it over the left rear wheel CAN cause more potential loss of traction due to the existing imbalance of downward force between the left and right wheels....but this is when the car is on the ragged edge of tractibility.....
Generally the battery re-location is one of many mods like a snubber, stiffer right side spring, spring clamps and rated shocks that go towards correct weight distribution and achieving separation which the Mopar leaf spring system was designed to do.
Bare in mind...a lot of these adjustments work because the super stockers ran serious overhang behind the wheel arch - a short assed car like our aussie Chargers usually needs some sort of traction bar or Caltrack.
Squatting is for chicks and Chebby owners 
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Ron
