Debating moving battery to trunk , advantages?

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I vote we put the battery AND Don Gentry in the trunk, then I can drive!!

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Ha ha...... You put my blubber and that battery in the trunk it would be a wheel stander even with a stock slant 6 in it

bob.... You getting close on your car ?

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I would not put the battery in the back.When you do,then you have to add the cutoff switch,all the extra wiring...simpler to keep it where it is.Look at a lot of the stock eliminator cars..battery is up front.

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Have you done a lot of work on the suspension for weight transfer? If there is anything to go after, I would work on that first. Then if your 60s aren't repeating like a machine, consider the battery move. Weight distribution is a funny thing. Too little power, and the car can't hook if it is nose heavy. Too much launch power, and you sometimes have to go backwards and move weight forward.

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Danny said just qiut srcewing around and make it like the old blue car .its already to fast for nhra tracks with no cage

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Tell Danny to get his wallet out and participate

No way momma is gonna let me take the training wheels off THIS car.... Would have to be another one.

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I'd lose those 002/003 springs and have the Caltrac/spring deal going on. Yes, taller front tires will help and you'll gain rollout and thus a gain in ET.

About the battery? Here's what I'm going to do in my street/stripper rather than move it to the trunk:

http://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/

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I am moving mine back to the front from the trunk. Need weight on the nose.

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Brad.. You got a whole different animal there buddy
It may take more than that battery to keep that thing off the bumper

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Can you lower the rear? That's where I would start.

Tires inside the wells and drop it down.

Looks like it raises the front OK.

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The rear tires aren't as far out as it appears. They are actually inside the wheel lip. It's not minitubbed, so if I try and tuck the tire in any more it will cause problems with rubbing the springs to the inside.
I currently have the torsion bars cranked almost all the way up in the front because of the short fronts.... For ground clearance on the street with that huge super stock pan.
Once I put a taller tire on the front I can lower the tbars a good bit and keep same clearance in the front I have.
I bought these 002/003 springs used from a buddy who raced them on his Duster a few years and went to cal tracs.... They do seem to have more arch than I remember my old car with them having..... But maybe not
Will see how it sits with new fronts and tbars lowered.... But it sure looks goofy now

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Can you lower the rear? That's where I would start.

Tires inside the wells and drop it down.

Looks like it raises the front OK.

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I had the same springs on my Demon and it raised the rear to high for me and I put 2 in. lowering blocks under it and it made a big difference. I had a best 60 ft. of 1.36 on a 100 shot NOS it was spinning before I did that.

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Can you lower the rear? That's where I would start.

Tires inside the wells and drop it down.

Looks like it raises the front OK.

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I had the same springs on my Demon and it raised the rear to high for me and I put 2 in. lowering blocks under it and it made a big difference. I had a best 60 ft. of 1.36 on a 100 shot NOS it was spinning before I did that.

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Looks nice

When I had the stock rear springs on the car it sat about like your Demon. Problem was on the street every decent bump I hit smacked the tires...... Not good

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I'd lose those 002/003 springs and have the Caltrac/spring deal going on. Yes, taller front tires will help and you'll gain rollout and thus a gain in ET.

About the battery? Here's what I'm going to do in my street/stripper rather than move it to the trunk:

http://performancedistributors.com/product/dyna-batt/

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I am old school, my old car ran 9's on 002/003 leafs with a small tire and I could dial the car blindfolded. Not a big cal trac fan. At this current cars power level these leafs are well more than adequate( and I just put them on it) ....lol

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The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.

The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.

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Assuming your numbers/calcs are correct and they seem to be and I agree with the conclusions, there is another impact to consider besides just a straight line forces one might consider in moving a battery, a rear mounted battery can be mounted often lower, lowering the COG, and if any cornering/handling goals are desired, there are some benefits to be found having a battery in front of rear axle, closer to f/r COG regarding yaw forces.

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This all my be true, but if you do it the safest correct way to install a battery in the trunk, it is a ton of work and expensive. I just finished installing a battery in the trunk job, and will NEVER do it again. Unless you are building a drag only car looking for a slight gain in traction, or whatever, I would forget about it. Just install a lightweight battery up front. The actual performance gains with the battery in the trunk for a street/strip car are very little in my opinion, mostly for looks, but a huge PITA. My opinion since you asked.

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The physics of moving the battery are more dramatic than they appear.
The front location is forward of the front axle, which means that the 70 lb. battery exerts more than 70 lbs. on the nose - by cantilevering, it removes weight from the rear axle.
The change to trunk mount is exactly the reverse: since the weight is behind the axle (and probably far more distant than the front location) it adds more than 70 lbs. to the rear axle weight since it removes weight from the nose.
The actual numbers can be had by measuring the distance from the center of the battery to the front axle, divided by the wheelbase, and multiplied by the battery (and tray) weight.
Example: if the battery center is 11" ahead of the axle and the wheelbase is 110", the ratio is 10%, so you get an extra 7 lbs. on the nose.
Do it the same way for the rear. The battery center is 20" behind the axle, the ratio is 18.2%, so the change includes:
1. the 70 lb. battery
2. the extra 7 lbs. on the nose
3. the extra 12.7 lbs. on the rear
totaling almost 90 lbs.

The rearward distance also helps prevent weight transfer slightly by increasing the polar moment - the leverage makes the tail end harder to rotate around the axle center.

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Assuming your numbers/calcs are correct and they seem to be and I agree with the conclusions, there is another impact to consider besides just a straight line forces one might consider in moving a battery, a rear mounted battery can be mounted often lower, lowering the COG, and if any cornering/handling goals are desired, there are some benefits to be found having a battery in front of rear axle, closer to f/r COG regarding yaw forces.

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And of course its not just about fore/aft distribution or COG

Placing a heavy battery over or behind the right rear wheel adds ballast where it's most needed - because its the RIGHT side wheel that tries to " pick up" due to the inertial counterforce of the pinion against the crown wheel.

(Same reason a single spinner always breaks the right tyre loose....)

Placing it over the left rear wheel CAN cause more potential loss of traction due to the existing imbalance of downward force between the left and right wheels....but this is when the car is on the ragged edge of tractibility.....

Generally the battery re-location is one of many mods like a snubber, stiffer right side spring, spring clamps and rated shocks that go towards correct weight distribution and achieving separation which the Mopar leaf spring system was designed to do.

Bare in mind...a lot of these adjustments work because the super stockers ran serious overhang behind the wheel arch - a short assed car like our aussie Chargers usually needs some sort of traction bar or Caltrack.

Squatting is for chicks and Chebby owners