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Wow that's crazy! I can see why it wouldn't last....

I did one like that for a racer years ago when the rules said no lightened gear sets. I machined pockets between the screw holes that bolted on the ring gear. Took me a lot of hours on a manual mill with a rotary table. Everything was machined with a radius, no sharp corners anywhere. The guy ran it for 4 seasons, lent it to another racer for a night and it grenade. He complained about how it didn't last very long! LOL like 2 seasons is pushing it on a gear set! He said he could feel the difference though? I think it was a 6:50 gear so the crown was really thick with lots of material removed. This was before you could buy them lightened. I've done a few gear clusters for T-10 based transmissions too. Funny how circle track stuff is all hush hush...
Fun times....

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the lower screw in joint that has the same taper as the 62-74 b&e bodies is the k719. however, that screw in joint has the same threads as the upper ball joints,

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I got the Howe ball joint for a K719 and it is not the same taper or size as the B/E/A lower control arm

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the lower screw in joint that has the same taper as the 62-74 b&e bodies is the k719. however, that screw in joint has the same threads as the upper ball joints,

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I got the Howe ball joint for a K719 and it is not the same taper or size as the B/E/A lower control arm

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now that's interesting. as of now, i have the moog brand k719 joint attached to a set of spindles and steering arms from a diplomat cop car. with that being said, i also used the same setup on my brothers 64 chrysler 300. both upper and lower joints are the same size outer threads and tapers[7*], but the lower joint stud is bigger as it is the load bearing joint. as the diplomat joint is attached to the lower arm like the 300, the mating hole is on the steering arm. where as the b/e/a joint is on the steering arm and the mating hole is on the lower control arm. i'm sure you know this already. i guess i really don't know what you are attempting to do for your application. howe,afco,qa1, and speedway brand joints are patterned after only a few moog brand joints that are popular applications in the dirt world. if you are talking nascar, i don't know what they use. if you are going to modify a factory lower arm to a screw in joint, to use your b/e/a spindles, and use a bolt in factory steering arm, the diplomat piece or 57[ish] to 64 d/p/c with the k719[moog] joint will work. please tell me what combination of spindles and arms you plan to use, and i'll try to help you with the joints needed if i can.

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the lower screw in joint that has the same taper as the 62-74 b&e bodies is the k719. however, that screw in joint has the same threads as the upper ball joints,

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I got the Howe ball joint for a K719 and it is not the same taper or size as the B/E/A lower control arm

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now that's interesting. as of now, i have the moog brand k719 joint attached to a set of spindles and steering arms from a diplomat cop car. with that being said, i also used the same setup on my brothers 64 chrysler 300. both upper and lower joints are the same size outer threads and tapers[7*], but the lower joint stud is bigger as it is the load bearing joint. as the diplomat joint is attached to the lower arm like the 300, the mating hole is on the steering arm. where as the b/e/a joint is on the steering arm and the mating hole is on the lower control arm. i'm sure you know this already. i guess i really don't know what you are attempting to do for your application. howe,afco,qa1, and speedway brand joints are patterned after only a few moog brand joints that are popular applications in the dirt world. if you are talking nascar, i don't know what they use. if you are going to modify a factory lower arm to a screw in joint, to use your b/e/a spindles, and use a bolt in factory steering arm, the diplomat piece or 57[ish] to 64 d/p/c with the k719[moog] joint will work. please tell me what combination of spindles and arms you plan to use, and i'll try to help you with the joints needed if i can.

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I'm modifying a circle track steering arm to use a screw in ball joint with a pin/taper to match A/B -Body lower control arms. The K719 in close but slightly bigger than the B/E/A taper. Worse case is I can ream the hole in the LCA to fit the K719

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Just finished tig welding the steering arms to use screw in ball joints. I used a simple tail pipe expander to keep the threaded sleeves round while welding. Worked great no distortion at all!

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looks good. are those ball joint rings the "universal" threaded [commonly available] rings ?

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Why such small rotors ?

And...how well will the aluminum hold up to the stress there, does it need heat treating or anything ? (I don't really know...just curious)

And it was in the mid 90's here the past 2 days...finally cooled down into the 80's today, so was nicer in the garage too.

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Well the stock Mercedes was 37lbs I think I read, these are 19lbs. Aluminum hubs have been used for years in circle track racing. Wilwood has aluminum hubs for street use too. These are thicker were it counts and I built in the rotor mounting plate/hat. Ya in another month or two it will be in the 90's here too, then I'll be complaining it's too hot?

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Why such small rotors ?

And...how well will the aluminum hold up to the stress there, does it need heat treating or anything ? (I don't really know...just curious)

And it was in the mid 90's here the past 2 days...finally cooled down into the 80's today, so was nicer in the garage too.

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Well the stock Mercedes was 37lbs I think I read, these are 19lbs. Aluminum hubs have been used for years in circle track racing. Wilwood has aluminum hubs for street use too. These are thicker were it counts and I built in the rotor mounting plate/hat. Ya in another month or two it will be in the 90's here too, then I'll be complaining it's too hot?

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Could have went carbon rotors...I recently shipped some to a buddy in Oz. 15.5" in diameter was only about 15 or 16 pounds from memory. Around $1200 or $1300 a piece as well though..


Nice looking setup though, and knew of aluminum hubs being used in racing setups, just wasn't sure what might have been done to them or how they may hold up over the long term?