I just got my Dana together, and everything went well. Thanks to Dr. Diff on how to setup the clutch pack and general knowledge. Also thanks to Bob George.

Anyways, so Dad and I set it up and everything went good. Other than a leaky new cover, the clutch pack seems way too tight.

I coated the new clutches liberally with straight friction modifier. This was about an 8oz bottle than came in the Yukon rebuild kit.

Well, this thing is like a spool. I didnt' get to do more than just break the gears in (about 15min drive). THe parking lots were still wet and salty, so I couldn't do the figure 8's to work the clutches, as the tires would slip first.

So in the mean time, should I add more friction modifer or will time and bends loosen up those clutches?

Pre-lubing the clutch pack is not enough. In addition, you must add a bottle of friction modifier to the gear lube.

Did you re-use your original cross shafts when you rebuilt the power-lock? The aftermarket parts are not not machined to the correct pitch.

Cass,
Yup...I re-used the cross shafts per your great info! Everything else inside the case is brand new. New Side Gears, Clutches, Steels, spider gears,....

So I used the one bottle of friction modifier that the Yukon kit came with. Should I purchase another bottle and add it in? (Two total bottles?)

Yes, you need a full bottle in the gear lube in addition to what you used to pre-lube the clutch pack.

Great....thanks Cass.

Any particular brand / size bottle?

The whale oil based ( you know it when you find it WHEW!!!! ) works the best--and give it some time---short trips to start so too much heat does not build up---I finally went to Synthetic and the whale oil and found happiness--McCandless built 4.10 factory "grip" with new clutch pack--OLD disc kit from the 60's I bought at the flea--Herb liked them!

I use Ford Motorsport friction modifier.

Don't get any of that Ford stuff on ya. You'll smell bad for a week!!