Took my dart in for alignment because it looked like the top of the wheels were leaning and I wanted to lower the front a little. A month later I noticed the front wheel hitting front fender on right side. Took it back thinking bolts came loose. They moved the tire back a little where it barely clears when turning left. Car is in specs, suggested I install adjustable struts to get a little positive castor ?(don't understand the front end stuff ). I'm running 215-70 14 on it now. Anyone have thoughts on this ?

Adjustable strut rods can correct for tolerences and add a little positive caster. If you overdo it and crank the strut rods in too tight it puts the LCA bushings in a bind. If you need more than a degree or two of positive caster, offset bushings or an aftermarket UCA would be the better solution.

How well do you know your front end guy? I'd talk it over with him. If both of you believe it will help, go for it. Firm Feel and others sell the adjustable rods. There is a fair amount of labor (pull T bars and LCA's) so that would be the time to make sure all other front end parts are up to snuff and change as needed while it is apart.

I used the adjustable rods on mine to correct for tolerance / variation and it really helped keep my LCA's snug with poly bushings and get the alignment where I wanted it.

Thanks for the info , my next question was poly or rubber, He suggested rubber bushings since it was a street car . Will a degree from the rods give me 1/4 inch ?

Agree rubber for the bushings, especially the LCA, is best for a street car. Just get good ones.

The adjustable rod will be able to pull the LCA 1/4". The trick is to make sure its not in a bind. If the wheel is out of position/hitting because of variation in strut rod length, bushing thickness or forward mount point location the adjustable rod will be a really good fix. If there is some issue with LCA anchor points on the K frame the adjustable rod is a bandaid. It comes down to the judgement of your front end guy.

It's amazing how far you can adjust the strut rods forward without binding the lower control arm. In fact, I can go way to far forward and still not get any binding.

My '68 Barracuda has a slight rake to the body. Even with Firm Fell upper control arms that add positive caster, I wasn't able to get more than 1 degree of positive caster without affecting the camber. After adding Hotchkis adjustable strut rods, the car cornered like it was on rails for the first time ever, and that was with a driveway alignment using a level and a measuring tape.

Once I finalize my engine and transmission swap and other small updates to the car, I'll get it into an alignment shop for fine tuning. I don't run a bunch of negative camber (top of tire tilted in towards the car) for cornering, which costs me on a road course, but I only get on one once a year.

The rest of my driving is on the flats and mountain roads on the way to and from the beach or over to Nevada.

Here's an older picture of when I first started upgrading the suspension. It now has 1" Firm Fell torsion bars, and adjustable strut rods. I love the difference it made.