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Geez I only took like .035 out of it in the deepest spot, which is where the witness marks were, then smoothed out the notch a little.

Should I call Larry Shepard to come get in line for head smacks?


He seemed to grind the bs out of those 273 rockers in his 'how to hot rod small block mopar engines' book! The builds on moparts all seem to run .6"+ lift cams though so if that's your point of reference I get it.

Btw this is all in good fun for me I am having a ball and always learn more with each engine I build or part I upgrade.

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, Radar, I like your sense of humor.

Oh, Im, sure Larry would get in line for that.

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The only thing you didnt do when you ground on them..
you should have used some finer tootsie rolls to
eliminate the rough stress risers and radius it.. you
most likely wont have any issues with low spring pressure
and low rpm as you are... I've ground on rockers also
for clearance with mucher higher spring pressures
and a couple thousand more rpm and they still havent
failed... just remember any sharp edge is a break point

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Mr. P-
Thanks so much not for telling me it's ok but for offering constructive advice. I mocked them up for the last time just now with the new pushrods and ran the valves. The adjusters are all showing 1-1.5 threads on the bottom so I'm happy with my pushrod length. The retainers don't want to hit. Next is measuring them for side to side clearance and laying out shims before installation.

So I'll definitely get them all smooth with some sandpaper tootsie rolls when they come off this last time.

Bedtime for me gotta wake up and make the doughnuts!

Radar

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The only thing you didnt do when you ground on them..
you should have used some finer tootsie rolls to
eliminate the rough stress risers and radius it.. you
most likely wont have any issues with low spring pressure
and low rpm as you are... I've ground on rockers also
for clearance with mucher higher spring pressures
and a couple thousand more rpm and they still havent
failed... just remember any sharp edge is a break point

---

Mr. P-
Thanks so much not for telling me it's ok but for offering constructive advice. I mocked them up for the last time just now with the new pushrods and ran the valves. The adjusters are all showing 1-1.5 threads on the bottom so I'm happy with my pushrod length. The retainers don't want to hit. Next is measuring them for side to side clearance and laying out shims before installation.

So I'll definitely get them all smooth with some sandpaper tootsie rolls when they come off this last time.

Bedtime for me gotta wake up and make the doughnuts!

Radar

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Sleep well... for your next time reading... the sweep
on the rocker/tip is what the engine SEES... your
not perfect but its not bad... if you were to add
lash caps thats the same as lowering the shaft and
if you add the shims(they make a tapper shim that goes
to zero on the upper edges which is the ONLY type
of shim to use).. you raise the shaft up.. you dont
need to spend money on something you can do with
his kit... maybe I should build my own kit... it all
comes back to the sweep and your ok.. again.. not
perfect... I do my own stuff on this and my engine
turns 8200 with econo W-2s.. its not magic like the
guy is talking.. if he wants to sell his kit he should
get a BETTER attitude to his customers... I do hope
he does well with it

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Sleep well... for your next time reading... the sweep
on the rocker/tip is what the engine SEES... your
not perfect but its not bad... if you were to add
lash caps thats the same as lowering the shaft and
if you add the shims(they make a tapper shim that goes
to zero on the upper edges which is the ONLY type
of shim to use).. you raise the shaft up.. you dont
need to spend money on something you can do with
his kit... maybe I should build my own kit... it all
comes back to the sweep and your ok.. again.. not
perfect... I do my own stuff on this and my engine
turns 8200 with econo W-2s.. its not magic like the
guy is talking.. if he wants to sell his kit he should
get a BETTER attitude to his customers... I do hope
he does well with it

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Mr. P, I would be interested to know what your opinion is on a couple things.

*Given the O.P "Interference" issues, what particular item in his valvetrain would you attribute this problem to? What item would you suggest be replaced to prevent this from happening?

*I really didn't think rocker arm manufacturers would recommend grinding on there parts to resolve the issue. I certainly can't imagine they will warranty the parts in the event of a failure. I guess I should call them before I hang my hat on that though.

*You mention both lowering and raising the shaft as well as valve lash caps. Obviuosly very different methods. In this particular application which would you have done and why?

*You mentioned building your own kit with tapered shims. I am curious to know how much the sweep would change with your preferred shims as opposed to the ones I just installed on my car from B3RE. I ask because my sweep is now 25% of what it was before. Substantial improvement in my opinion.

Obviously I have no "Performance based results to post yet, only measurements and pictures of what I understand to be improved / preferred geometry. In my application will Mike's kit equate to Performance gains? That has yet to be determined. It's also not to say that if it does not improve my performance that I don't have any other limiting factors to get past first. Regardless of what happens, I will be happy to share my experience.

Last thought and then I'm heading out to the garage for a bit. I have no doubt in my mind that B3RE could have corrected Radar's original problem with his kit and no grinding. The kit is posted for $120 bucks and EITHER WAY, the O.P needed push rods so that cost is a wash. I'm not saying that grinding the rocker arms didn't fix the problem and it very well may never be a problem. I'm just saying calling Mikes kit "Magic" is probably a bit out there.

If "Magic" is not using a grinder to make your rocker arms clear, prepare to be amazed.

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Sleep well... for your next time reading... the sweep
on the rocker/tip is what the engine SEES... your
not perfect but its not bad... if you were to add
lash caps thats the same as lowering the shaft and
if you add the shims(they make a tapper shim that goes
to zero on the upper edges which is the ONLY type
of shim to use).. you raise the shaft up.. you dont
need to spend money on something you can do with
his kit... maybe I should build my own kit... it all
comes back to the sweep and your ok.. again.. not
perfect... I do my own stuff on this and my engine
turns 8200 with econo W-2s.. its not magic like the
guy is talking.. if he wants to sell his kit he should
get a BETTER attitude to his customers... I do hope
he does well with it

---

Mr. P, I would be interested to know what your opinion is on a couple things.

*Given the O.P "Interference" issues, what particular item in his valvetrain would you attribute this problem to? What item would you suggest be replaced to prevent this from happening?

*I really didn't think rocker arm manufacturers would recommend grinding on there parts to resolve the issue. I certainly can't imagine they will warranty the parts in the event of a failure. I guess I should call them before I hang my hat on that though.

*You mention both lowering and raising the shaft as well as valve lash caps. Obviuosly very different methods. In this particular application which would you have done and why?

*You mentioned building your own kit with tapered shims. I am curious to know how much the sweep would change with your preferred shims as opposed to the ones I just installed on my car from B3RE. I ask because my sweep is now 25% of what it was before. Substantial improvement in my opinion.

Obviously I have no "Performance based results to post yet, only measurements and pictures of what I understand to be improved / preferred geometry. In my application will Mike's kit equate to Performance gains? That has yet to be determined. It's also not to say that if it does not improve my performance that I don't have any other limiting factors to get past first. Regardless of what happens, I will be happy to share my experience.

Last thought and then I'm heading out to the garage for a bit. I have no doubt in my mind that B3RE could have corrected Radar's original problem with his kit and no grinding. The kit is posted for $120 bucks and EITHER WAY, the O.P needed push rods so that cost is a wash. I'm not saying that grinding the rocker arms didn't fix the problem and it very well may never be a problem. I'm just saying calling Mikes kit "Magic" is probably a bit out there.

If "Magic" is not using a grinder to make your rocker arms clear, prepare to be amazed.

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I f I recall the OP needed to go lower on the shaft
but instead of milling the shaft mount areas he could
add a lash cap which does the same thing (the shaft
is lower in relation to the valve tip).. on the shims..
they arent mine... they make 2 sizes if I recall.
a .015 and a .030.. they might make .060... they are
that thick at the bottom then tapper out to zero
as they roll up the wall so your not applying the
side load on the pedistals... on the rockers.. no
you shouldnt need to grind them but its even suggested
in the mopar book... but the springs are to large
in diameter along with the retainers

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Yes, beehives are the very best solution. They are smaller and lighter than the regular springs so you get a performance improvement plus they eliminate the rocker arm clearance issue. But if there isn't any room in the budget there isn't any room. We used beehives on the 427 inch small block for Tim's road race Valiant. That setup worked really nice.

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I'm sure that pic was to show Andys lift tool.. but
looking at the roller axle centerline it sure looks
like its well past the centerline of the valve stem
but it might just be a angle thing in the pic

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All of Andy Fs pictures are pretty

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I test fit Comps, PRW and RAS rocker arms on that engine. The Comps worked the best. They all fit with beehive springs, I think the RAS arms would've worked with standard springs but I don't recall.

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I test fit Comps, PRW and RAS rocker arms on that engine. The Comps worked the best. They all fit with beehive springs, I think the RAS arms would've worked with standard springs but I don't recall.

Most people aren't able to test fit multiple rocker arms on an engine but I've found that with Mopars it is the best way to go. The various rocker arms all fit very differently. They are not interchangeable regardless of what people say.

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Yeah that is nice to have various sets laying around
the shop to test fit ... I have 2 sets in
the shop to use.. T&D and the MP/Crane blues.. all
the engine I have right now have T&D on them.. but
I do have both the multi shaft and single shaft T&D
to try.. but I would have to mill the stands off the
W-2s if I wanted to run the multi shaft T&Ds if the
single shaft ones didnt fit right... the only set of
heads I have that dont have rockers on them is a set
of standard length W-2 that are new but I did port
them already

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Geez I only took like .035 out of it in the deepest spot, which is where the witness marks were, then smoothed out the notch a little.

Should I call Larry Shepard to come get in line for head smacks?


He seemed to grind the bs out of those 273 rockers in his 'how to hot rod small block mopar engines' book! The builds on moparts all seem to run .6"+ lift cams though so if that's your point of reference I get it.

Btw this is all in good fun for me I am having a ball and always learn more with each engine I build or part I upgrade.

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These style Rockers are way different in design then what you have. They have a much Wider base for strength then your type rockers.

But in all Fairness, you really didn't take that much off, and your working pressures aren't that high. As I said in my first post , you will probably be fine. Your Magnified pics, make it look worse then it probably is.

As you know by now from all of the other posts, there are better ways to get the clearance that you needed without grinding the rockers.

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I test fit Comps, PRW and RAS rocker arms on that engine. The Comps worked the best. They all fit with beehive springs, I think the RAS arms would've worked with standard springs but I don't recall.

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I have the Comps with my E-brock heads and standard as delivered valve springs.

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The original springs and retainers ootb were on there with these same prw rockers for around seven years with only a couple incidents of an adjuster coming loose. There were no clearance issues with the prw rockers and the stock edelbrock spring set up.

On the other hand the motor wouldn't make any more power after 5000rpm or so with a comp xe275hl or an MP 557 cam and an airgap I don't know if the springs were too soft to keep the valves from floating or if the valvejob and ports were not up to flowing the air. It dynoed at 350/400 rwhp/tq so the eddy heads were getting the job done for a hot stock replacement at around 1hp/cid.

I'm getting real close to driving this motor. It seems like time is going slowly and money is going quickly- I broke my eagle crank in two pieces in June after around seven years of beating on it. I probably have the marginal traction of my 275/60 bfg tires to thank for not breaking more stuff!