Can someone shed some light on factory "run out" tolerances for the cam journals? I've received two new cams, both with run out on journals #2,3,&4. Need to know what is acceptable.

HMMM, interesting,
my mentor taught me to ALWAYS have camshafts checked for straightness, yeah OLD SCHOOL BS most would say by todays standards. But HE and his combinations always had an edge on the competition. interesting post

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quote: I've seen stock cast type camshafts straighten as well as steel roller cam cores straightened and raced successfully

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"Straightened"....are you referring to merely installing a cam with journal run out or an actual process that straightens the shaft prior to installation?

I just had a new Comp last week .005 on the center and .003, .004 on the others--it would NOT go into the block--I think....they warp them when they harden the journals
and of course, they never check them
It is BS and when called they say "oh..never had that happen before" Thast is just bullbleep--they have a call a day about it I suspect
Racer Brown Jim always talks about last step before shipping is straighten the cam.
I am just SICK and TIRED of being quality control for all these outfits shipping junk parts knowingly then playing dumb.
Look at the math
I buy cam say $125 cost plus $16 shipping--it is screwed so I return it $20 UPS--they replace it and CHARGE me shipping another $16-$18 so I have near $60 tied up so you know what happens? They never get the junk cam back--I have another piece of rebar for my next concrete pour and they get off the hook or I could wind up with $200+ in a plain hyd cam and a week of lost time on a build.

The way the runout is on all the journals mans UPS did not have a part in it
You have to know that MOST all plain hyd cams in USA no matter the brand come from Camshaft Machine--if you order 25 of each grind and spend $25K-up per pop you too can get cams for $50 each range--well you can't--only the big boys can but...
this is a quality control issue --NOT checking Jack Bleep before boxing and selling no matter where they come from
Cores may come from overseas--but the grinding is done here---more important the SELLING and Marketing is done here--so....

No, these are from a major USA source, so I don't think these are "China" cams (unless the cores came from there??) and they did NOT get dropped. After receiving them, both were handled as if they were made of glass.

Hey, Crabman, so what's a guy to do? The run out I have on both of these cams prevents the cam from going in (without using a big sledge hammer!).

You can return to the maker--they can't be fixed at home
We read on this forum all the time about cam bearings and about half the time I suspect it is crooked crap cams that are the issue--I build engines for a living for over 25 years now--parts we get these days --even with all the CNC computer yadda yadda can still be junk as they do not check anything before it leaves the door--YOU are quality control for your build NOT the parts makers ( finders and re-boxers--not many makers anymore)

Crabman made some excellent points. Are there "straight" cams out there to be found? Again, do any of you true engine builders know what maximum journal run out is tolerable in order for it not to be an issue? An earlier response stated .0001-.0003". The cams I received are no where close to this. Do I need to keep returning cams until I get one in this range? My build has already been delayed 3 weeks due to the "bent" cams!

Sounds like crabman needs to find a Co. that takes more pride in their product then the junk companies he using and bi^%&in about. Man up, you rag about something, name the companies, don't just rag! JMFO

Hello All!!! Find or check with your crankshaft company to see if they can straighten them!!! I have use Moldex Cranks to have our cams straighten! You cam even have a cast iron cam straighten to!!!

I also had this issue with a solid roller from Comp for a big block. It would not go in the block. First I thought I had buggered up the cam bearings but looked fine after inspection. Then I slid in the old purpleshaft I had previously in the same engine with ease. Also had another brand new Comp solid roller on hand but for a hemi that I tried. It fit perfect. I measured the journals of the faulty cam and found them to be in spec. This lead me to believe the cam was bent. Called Comp and they tried to say it was my block. I asked how in the heck is that possible when the other 2 cams I had on hand fit perfect? Not to mention that one of the cams was also one of their products. After going back and forth, they ended sending me another cam and it fit fine.

Just had this happen with a Comp custom grind. Three old shelf cams fit fine the New comp cam no way. I had to take it to Racer brown , Jimmie finally got it right but it was way off.

Cam cores come from the US, it was discussed here within the last year.

Cam cores are hardened BEFORE they ever get to the cam grinder. Not after, unless you are talking about nitriding.

Chrysler blocks are well known for having cam bearing bores that are smaller than spec minimum, also having a certain amount of shift from the stress relief of daily use.

If you try three cams and two fit and the other doesn't, then there is something wrong with the one that doesn't fit. Could be bent, could have the bearing journals oversize, etc.

It should be possible to straighten a camshaft a couple of thousandths, but that's one more step. A person does not expect to have to straighten a brand-new cam or crank.

Comp gets a lot of blame on this board, and I think it's too bad. They sell more cams than about everyone else put together. If their failure rate is the same as the others, they will naturally have more complaints than any other. And, with the reckless way that charges are thrown about, it's a wonder that anyone has a business or even cares to build things for Mopar enthusiasts. We have a tendency to bite the hands that feed us.

R.

I put the cam I was talking about in a crank grinder--easiest way to tell what is really going on--my plan was to reduce journal size as it was fat then discovered it was like zig zag .005 out in middle journal--.004 out on #2 and .003 out the other darn way on #4
I checked block before installing cam bearings
two other cams went in FINE
The gripe is the fact that is COST me $$ to return/reship/ goof around with a product that should be good to start with--I LOOSE when a defect comes in--every time.
I can't tell you how common this issue is--it is every other week. If not with a cam another fine piece of work--lets see leaks in new Milodon pans at the weld--see several a year--now we fill with water let sit overnight in shop BEFORE install--ugh let me see wrong oil rings in MAHLE pistons--been very common this year with every engine shop I know of--OK want more?? Clevite shell thickness ALL over the place--using KING now
FelPro Hemi head gaskets rubbing pushrod HARD so you have to chop new $200 gaskets --
Rear main seals from FelPro that are shriveled like they were embalmed--ok use the ones sold by member here now Call FelPro--No other shop has mentioned it--REALLY?????? You sent old worn out mold to China and they make crap seals you sell now and claim--NO Problems--dozens of fresh engines get torn back apart--costing tons of $$ to shops, buyers, etc ruining dozens of new dual disc clutches etc Oh and Indy heads with pinholes that fill new engines with water on first fire up because they never pressure test anything!! Never have that problem with Dart heads boys!! Or China cast Sidewinders or Edelbrocks
so do not rag me about bitching--I have photos and I have proof and it COST our shop thousands of dollars a year--
They send out some bent up cams--all I ask is check the darn things before you ship OR Blast me a FREE replacement asap along with reimbursement for all the shipping etc but NO--that is not how it works with any of these sellers--all the while customers expect the shops they deal with to "handle and eat" all of this--I mean, I understand but just want folks to understand the whole picture
And ...I am not talking about a speed part like say a Milodon gear drive where you MUST grind the block first--I understand that kind of thing--most every speed part sold is that way --I am speaking about out and out defects

Ive used comp cams for years and have mixed thoughts on them. Although Ive never had a issue with a cam there is no QC dept at comp cams but rather a parts packing dept.

It took three tries to get one set of off the shelf common pushrods.

There great edm lifters had one hole not burned all the way through.

Many don't grasp that some do wonders with oem parts due to the fact there is so much R@D done on them and for the aftermarket we are the ducks.

As for example my new oil pickup. Took all but 2 seconds to see the pin hole where the tube meets the threaded section going into the pump. Would suck more air then oil.

Some learn the hard way but check every new part as it comes in the door even if your not going to use it for a week or a month.

Do the QC work and stay on it and it will pay in the long run.

All my comp orders now say "check before shipping" but shouldn't they do that anyway?