Has anyone run used nascar rods. They appear to be cheap but are they spent when they get rid of them. I was also curious what is difference on the cranks. Could they ever fit a regular small block or even an r3 with I believe ford main bearings or are they completely different spacing etc. They look like the cam gear damper area is different. I am just curious really would like to do a stroker with some pankl or carrillo rods that have the 1.88 size rod bearings because they are so light and cheaper than heavier rods.

R5 crank won't fit, the rear is different to a LA engine, as is the nose. The rods are generally swapped out as a precaution more than anything, they could probably last for quite a time in a lower rpm engine. Not sure about the big end width, but the pin diameters they run will require a custom piston. They are usually high 0.700"s to low 0.800"s in size.

If the rods came out of a motor that has a 500 miler under it's belt , I'd pass.
A fellow I knew back in the late 80's was heavily involved with a team and I was asking about this very thing.
And amazed to hear what went into the scrap bin afterwards.
This was long before ebay and the parts are no doubt better quality.
But their best days are behind them if they have run that long.
For a low rpm and power deal , 1.88 journals are just something to brag about and will show no real benefit.
If they came out of a mule or qualifying motor , there might be some life left in them. But how to verify that is the next question.

I have thought of pistons as well. If I sold my current block and got a Siamese bore block I could use a nascar piston as well. I would buy a used set ($10 plus shipping) and put it on the mill and see if I can get the valve reliefs needed. If it works buy a new set for $300. My concerns are life of the rings in a street car and if I would need to take more material out of the center of the piston to keep compression down and still have a good quench. I do have a good size lathe to do it on. If it all works out rods are about $60 with as much as $300 for new bolts and $300 for pistons $200 for rings and $800 for cheap crank. So you end up at about $2000 which is what most stroker rotating assemblies costs but it would be considerably lighter. The rods are 100 grams alone about 50 in the pistons for ones that have the same comp ht.

If the pistons are from an R5 the price of new rings will take the budget right out of it

Youll need to find older nascar rods with the .940 big end width to work on a sbm crank. Newer ones are too narrow.

rings are $229

Try 1400 for the top ring only

here is the link to ebay with a buy it now of $229 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JE-PISTON-RI...=item1e82c43d17 I had bought some rods because they where ridiculously cheap($40)knowing that they would probably end up as wall art but the same place has new bolts for only $207. My playing around is starting to seem like a plausible way of putting together a nice rotating assembly. I do agree they are very narrow only .89 so the ability of getting a crank in that size might be impossible unless I pay $3000+ As noted by others it is hard to find a piston that uses these rings so it is about $700 for the rings or turn a larger groove in them. I have a nice Clausing lathe that would easily do the job.

Most the pistons on ebay run the thinner rings which are $1400 plus. The current pistons do not run the 0.043" ring you shown in that link. I had a quick look on ebay then, nothing that will run with those rings.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-DODGE-MOP...=item1e6790fe84

These would be the closest and would run a 0.041" ring
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-4-154-DOD...=item20af0e34db

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-DODGE-MOP...=item1e6790feb4

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-DODGE-MOP...=item1e6790fe0a

Most of the engines built in the last 5 years would be running a 0.029"-0.031" top and second ring.

0.043" stuff has been around since the very early 80's

If the piston will center the rod, I wouldn't even be remotely concerned about side clearance. The bearing clearance is what will dictate how much oil you will have flying around the crankcase.

If this stuff can be made to go in your block you will have way more in machining than parts. Sounds like a cool project that that won't bankrupt you if it does go boom.

Kevin

Those rings for $229 aren't for the latest pistons. Those rings were from the late 90's early 2000's. $1400 rings are required for the newest pistons. You could send them to Rebco and have them open up the ring lands a bit. Last time I talked to them the price seemed fairly reasonable in comparison to the price of rings.

Also if you are planning on running late model R5 pistons in a LA block, you better have a dry sump system on it cause those low tension rings aren't gonna seal without vacuum.

opening up the ring groove on the piston should not be a problem on my lathe and I could even do some modification of the valve relief area on my mill but if the larger ring still needs a dry sump to function properly it is a no go. just seems like a shame because they sell piston with the correct compression height that are real light and strong enough to handle 800hp for so cheap it is a shame they could not be utilized

I am all for people doing things themselves, but I would make sure I could achieve the required surface finish and accuracy on my ring grooves before I did anything.

Cutting the ring grooves is a real pain, then I would rather buy another set of cheap used slightly bigger pistons with belonging rings (just for the rings) in correct thickness, and check /correct the end gap.... as a super budget job. For the valve notches the modern pistons with the strengthening ribs close to the wrist pin allows for some cutting suited to a wedge engine without getting too thin. This is the way I will build my R3/W8 engine at 4.180" bore.

Do not forget that these lightweight parts demand crankshaft balancing, and if you want to benefit the small big-end it means offset grinding the crank, what I mean to say there is some work to be done that adds to the cost. Also, be aware of the LA deck height means you need longer rods than what is common, so you have to plan for this. If your base is a 9" R3 then it is simpler. All these parts are based on the 9" sbc dimension. To make them work in a 360 you need to have a 4" stroker as a base, and then add the offset grinding.

I am fortunate to own both a crankshaft grinder and a balancer, so for me it is just hobbywork and fun.

You can also E-buy a dry sump system cheap, if you use a 3-stage pump they go for appx 250-300$, and a tank you can get for 50-150$, and used hoses also cheap. Budget jobs are always fun, and you create your own engine, if something goes wrong it does not matter and you can repair it the same way.

The most important is to plan the whole project, and calculate it both with new conventional parts and as an alternative with the used cheap racingparts. Then you will see what you can save, and the risks involved and the remaining building cost.

Good luck!

I really thought a dry sump would be much more. Maybe this idea is not dead. I had planned on a 4.25 stroke with 6.2 rods. I had figured buying some used $10 pistons and see if I could make the necessary machining without any problems before buying other parts. For a short time I worked at a place that made turbo bearings. They told us that there was only one place in the US and one in Japan that makes them for everyone. I would turn out about 600 in a shift and the night guy would do the same

most of these piston-rod conbo's use a piston centering shims, theres a place in n.c. that makes these shims, had a local shop with a edm michien do mine, about $200 & i had the stock, as far as vacum just use a vacum pump, c&s carb in st.charles has a cheep one that works super great, i run many of these parts the only one's i'll not use are the PSI valve springs, i've got both the 1.88 & 1.85 rods & turn my engine up to 9500 with no trouble, this is a dirt stock car engine, need any help u can call me 618-946-2640

The NASCAR rods are overbuilt for their original application, so you should be fine there, I've used them so far without issue. Be sure to ask whoever is selling them if they are straight up or offset rods, you'll need the offset versions.

Like someone already mentioned, the snout would need to be machined on the R5 crank to go into a R3 block, but all the R5 cranks are short stroke so I'm not sure what would be gained.