I took the tailshaft housing off of a 727 to use on another. Are you saying that the existing output shaft stays in place and a 4x4 tail housing merely bolts on? Isn't the output shaft shorter on a 4x4?

the output and the case match-----specific 4x4 tailhousing case +4x4 shaft and you can put either a BB or SB maincase on it----everything inside is the same big or small.....so the tailhousing case and matching shaft can have an AMC/IH/BB/SB maincase on it and all the guts are the same----pretty simple......

Interesting!
I may make a trip to my local Pick-N-Pull yards this weekend to investigate.

Should be easy to spot a 727 with a 203 adapter in a pile of transmissions if they have some. The bolt pattern is fairly unique. If not like you mentioned look for the big nut on the 75-79's. If California wasn't so far away from Canada I would give you one I usually throw them in the scrap pile.

Thanks.... Shipping alone would be a killer, huh?

ya shipping would could more then the parts as I found out when I ordered my last stroker kit. Did you manage to find one on the weekend?

I am still looking to make this swap happen. I have 2 or 3 BB 727 cases here but they are for cars or 2wd trucks & vans. I would really like to find an actual 75-78 BB 727 case with the 203 TC pattern but I'd settle for a 75-79 Small block 727 & 203 TC.
Anyone in Northern CA or West Nevada that can help?

I found a 77 440 short bed Power wagon in a junkyard today. I'm returning tomorrow to get the 727 and all the A/T stuff: Cooler lines, linkage and even the steering column.
Heck yeah... Now I just need to find a reputable trans rebuilder here in Sacramento.

Nice. That's a score!

Before I bought my power wagon, there was one in the junkyard. I had no idea I was getting a power wagon, so I didn't grab anything off it.

This was months ago, and I'm sure it's crushed by now

have a 77 440 power wagon parts truck....
its still giving up parts....

On the word of a good friend, I left the trans with a local trans shop. I brought in a 12" low stall converter from a mid 70s class C motorhome. I wanted a low stall unit so the truck gets moving right off of idle. I'm not fond of a the slippy feel of the higher stall converters. plus the 440 is basically stock. Just a Performer intake and a Holly 600 carb. Prior owner swapped on a pair of the closed chambered heads, either 516 or 915, not sure which. Compression ratio can't be more than 9.0 to 1.

The same donor truck gave up the steering column. It even had a key in the ignition.

Score!

I just ordered this!

Our dog Domino got in the way of this shot:

Man-0-man...Life sure gets in the way!
I had the 727 rebuilt. The converter was cut open, inspected and welded back up. Right as I was getting ready to do the swap, I had a disagreement with a buddy and it looked like I might have to sell the truck to generate some payback money. After THAT was settled, I got back to work with a long commute. I just put the swap off until I had time.
Now I'm back. I read a post on the first page here. Some guy thought I'd have to change the rear drive shaft due to length? Huh? I thought if the transfer case mounted in the same spot, the drive shafts would be essentially undisturbed. This Transfer case bolts to the trans case (Married). If the 727 is longer than the bell and 4 speed, the rear DS would need to be shortened with the front needing to be lengthened.

I could just measure the 727 and the 4 speed.

Alright, either my measurements are wrong or someone is passing off wrong info.
I just measured from the engine block to the transfer case in the truck. 24 3/8" The 727 I have patiently waiting is 24 1/4". It seems that it is a direct fit.
I did swap to the A/T steering column awhile back. I thought I had an A/T brake pedal but I can't find it now.

I have an auto brake pedal from my 85 that I'm getting ready to pitch if you need one. Should be the same.

That is mighty kind and I appreciate it. I may be in touch if my luck sucks finding one locally.

The manual trans stuff if all out. Pretty easy job EXCEPT for the one bell housing bolt that is behind the clutch linkage. Holy Crap what a terrible idea! The cast iron bell has a mounting boss for the ball pivot that the cross shaft rides on. This boss (On big block) sticks out and makes it impossible to use a socket or even a wrench on the bell bolt. There was an allen head bolt in there with very little room around it to position an allen wrench. New cuss words were discovered while spending almost an hour on this one bolt.
I tore the gasket that goes between the trans and transfer case. A parts guy suggested oil resistant RTV. I figure that this isn't a pressurized connection so I figure that it should be okay.
As usual, I'll clean all the bolts and brackets before I put them back in. It is a 4wd so they will get muddy but I like installing clean parts.

they make a socket that swivels with a allen or torx bit, I have a 3' and a 4' 3/8 drive extension for trans work. It reaches up to the bell bolts and you work the ratchet at the tailseal area or xfer case.

yes. some rtv for xfer/trans adaptor. gonna have to get high to use that trans jack under the truck.

mine always had a 6" lift with 17/40/15 I would undo the 7 bolts and kick the xfer off with my feet and let it drop to the ground. (I have a open dirt floor shop) then R&R the trans like a normal truck.

when I install the xfer, I would stand it up on a floor jack then lift it to get it on the splinesand let it hang but supported by jack, then swing it up to get the bolts in.

I agree, clean before R&R makes it go back together with less dirt in the eyes.

did you get the auto shift linkage and torque shaft/TPV linkage?