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Re: Fuel tank liner
[Re: 12valve]
#1665238
09/01/14 10:38 AM
09/01/14 10:38 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
I've never posted here but I have gained a ton of knowledge so let me start by saying thank you. I have a 67 barracuda that I am slowly working my way thru. I modified a new stock gas tank with a 3" deep sump and baffling for an in tank walbro pump for my FAST EZ system. My plan was to take it to the local radiator shop and have a professional liner put into the tank. His opinion was that with all of the baffles that the liner would fail and come apart and he was not willing to install it. He would sell me the product and I could try it myself but he did't want to put his name on it. This obviously has me a little concerned about doing it myself. This car is not going to be any sort of a daily driver (I have 2 other vehicles ahead of it) but I want to be able to pack up and head to MATS or Willow Springs (2500 mile round trips) with zero hesitation and no issues. The car will always be garaged when not travelling and won't see the road from late October thru early March. I would like your guys' opinion on leaving the tank "as is" inside and running it?
I surely would NOT have it "sealed" inside by you or anyone else. It'll never "stay put" eventually it comes off.
The best course of action is to air test your tank and welds if your concerned about leaks before putting it into service. You do that by installing a spare filler neck and cap. Use a blow nozzle with a rubber tip and blow 1 or 2 pounds of pressure into the pickup with the vents capped and use bubbles on all the welds and everywhere to check for leaks. Repair all the leaks externally.
YES I SAID 1-2 maybe 3 or 4 BUT NO MORE pounds of pressure. It don't take much to blow up the tank. A little squirt of pressure is all it takes to test it with bubbles which is the best way for you and I and the radiator guy to test them. No bubbles with 1-2 psi, it' won't leak gas or diesel guaranteed with metal welds.
Then keep your tank full of fuel at all times and it will never rust inside, never.
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Re: Fuel tank liner
[Re: 12valve]
#1665239
09/02/14 07:16 PM
09/02/14 07:16 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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Some guys were talking about this the other day on this board. The solder the sump after its welded on to make sure it doesn't leak.
Look into running a surge tank too. They are amazing, especially the ones from Radium Engineering.
I have a stock tank with no baffles and can get down to a couple of gallons in the tank on a road course like Willow Springs and never have any problems with air getting into my high pressure side.
I run a simple external pusher pump in the back of the car(it's a bit noisy still), but it just flows fuel to the front mounted surge tank at near zero psi until it is full and then it flow right back out to the main fuel tank again. Any air bubbles float to the top of the surge tank and are sent back to the main tank immediately. A high pressure pump at the bottom of the surge tank full-bypass flows through my fuel rails with air free fuel and dumps back into the surge tank too.
I'm doing some other work on the car right now but before it goes back on the road, I'm going to switch over to an in tank pump with four of those Walboro screen pick-ups in each corner of the tank.
No baffles, no sumps just a solid stream of un-aerated fuel to the injectors or carbs until the tank is almost empty.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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