Both my charger and 300, none smoker cars, always gets a smokey haze on the inside of all the windows. I've heard it has to do with the plastics & other composites used inside the newer vehicles. How does one go about getting them clean? I've tried multiple cleanings with windex, zaino bros window cleaner, ammonia w/news paper, etc. I can never get the haze to go away completely, & it never lasts long. So whats the secret? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Dave ss/ea #1355

Try a razor blade and finish it up with steel wool.

Used to remove overspray off windows at the body shop.

Dave, are these new cars or old (60's/70's) cars?
Either way a leak in the heater core or underdash lines/connectors/fittings will cause a haze on the inside of windows, mainly on the windshield but the new cars move the air around to the side windows too.

If the windows feel "greasy" at all you could try some Dawn dish detergent? Might cut through it?

Diamondite Glasswork Restorer

Brand new cars are prone to "Vinyl Fog", that's where you get a nasty film build-up of all the icky substances used to make the high plastic content of modern cars out-gassing inside the car and while the film is probably on all surfaces you see it on the window.

One tip for getting windows clean is switch to a clean, dry microfiber after making the initial wipe to remove the film and glass cleaner. If you continue using the same cloth your removed the film and glass cleaner with then the chance that you will simply transfer this gunk back onto the window is always a possibility.

try to find a product "nothin's better" works great on cleaning glass. I go over the window first with "Sprayway" glass cleaner (spray on rag and clean glass I don't like to get it on plastic rubber or paint). Then use the other product.

Used razor blades all the time without damaging glass, I guess some of you guys never painted house windows or did paint touch up on cars.

Never, ever use scotch-brite.

(steel wool have no opinion, I have used it on chrome and stainless for polishing with great success.)

I caught a new recon guy using green scotch-brite to remove shoe polish off a windshield and it had to be replaced. dunderhead.

re: steel wool on the hardness scale it is softer than glass. Some alloys can be harder. I'd pass using steel wool on old irreplaceable auto glass, but on a newer car 0000 steelwool (softer alloy) or even any grade of brass wool can be used. The problem is if there is other contaminates on the glass (concrete at new home construction i.e. patio doors) get scratched all the time not by the steel wool, but the aggregate in the concrete being cleaned off. A razor blade is the preferred method there.
The o.p. having a contaminate on the glass does not really need a harsh method. CLean, then the product I mentioned (iirc it's ground sea shells - calcium) is softer than glass and will clean it fine.

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Obviously, you two have never tried it or worked in a body shop.

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Gosh you are correct, I have never worked in a body shop before.. Worked in the glass business for over 35 years though.. AND replaced alot of glass at body shops that did this.....

I have been the rep on a BRAND NEW home complaint where the painter did this to remove overspray. Told us we ( my company) had sent "faulty glass" ( the not my fault syndrome)
. Needed to replace EVERY PIECE OF GLASS IN THE BRAND NEW WINDOWS IN THE BRAND NEW HOUSE due to the use of steel wool....

Sure wish a "body man" had been there to straighten me out...

But I must be full of it cause I don't work in a body shop..LOL

These are new cars, 2011 300C & 2013 Charger R/T. Dave ss/ea #1355

I get the same problem with both of my Fords. The dealer checked it out under warranty and I had my own shop pressure test the cooling system and neither found anything. I'm guessing it's the new car thing.

I have used both, razor blades as well as steel wool on auto glass with no issue. Not the coarse stainless steel wool; just the very fine and soft mild steel wool. The kind that rusts in even the least humidity. Too soft to scratch glass if use common sense and just use to remove the dirt, grime, film what ever. Not to try and polish it.

Thanks for the tips guys, but the windshields, at that steep angle and rear window, area's too big for a razor blade. Just seems no matter what i use, it never completely comes off, i'm always looking thru some kinda haze. front windshields the worst. Any more ideas, just keep them coming. Dave ss/ea #1355

I've used Glass Wax for over 40 years, by far the best product ever for those tough Armor All fumes fogged up car windows.

However out of production, but at times found on EBay. I still have a couple go cans of it. Must be used according to instructions,,,but interior windows. Perfecto!

Perhaps one of these products from Amazon might do well,,,,you truly need a something beyond Windex and like products to do a good job if you are dealing with smoked up or Armor All fogged windows,,,although for light duty, Invisible Glass and excellent waffle weave microfiber cloth be pretty darn good.

Use your remaining Armor All to kill that crab grass in your lawn that Round-up can't seem to touch. Never ever use it in a car interior. Use something like 303 Protectant instead.



http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...sl_5jctkdd10c_e

Here is a link to a happy user of a Glass Wax. Worth some effort to find.

http://www.annsentitledlife.com/anns-life/best-window-cleaner-ever/


Although careful use of razor blades is ok to take paint or adhesive off a window,,,,I would never use steel wool of any kind. Do a piece of glass with it, hold it up to the sun, it's like holograph city,,,would be like washing your car with Ajax. Additionally some glass is softer than others,,,some may hold up ok, others not,,,why take the chance when there are other less aggressive means.

Just as with paint finish restoration, use the least aggressive product first.