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The most accurate way is to do one cylinder at a time and not jump around.Start at #1 and do the drivers side and #2 and do the passenger side.As per each cylinder,rotate until the exhaust valve just starts to open and set the intake valve adjustment.Rotate until the intake valve fully opens then starts to close,when it closes aprox.1/2+ set the exhaust adjustment.With an iron block and iron heads set the lash .002 tighter than the recommended hot setting.After warm up recheck at the hot recommended setting.This is assuming your using a solid flat tappet or solid roller tappet camshaft.

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With iron heads and block, adjust according to specs.

Alum. heads add .006 Alum. heads and block add .012" approx.

Edit: What Bob says for cold setting iron heads and block!
Mark

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The most accurate way is to do one cylinder at a time and not jump around.Start at #1 and do the drivers side and #2 and do the passenger side.As per each cylinder,rotate until the exhaust valve just starts to open and set the intake valve adjustment.Rotate until the intake valve fully opens then starts to close,when it closes aprox.1/2+ set the exhaust adjustment.With an iron block and iron heads set the lash .002 tighter than the recommended hot setting.After warm up recheck at the hot recommended setting.This is assuming your using a solid flat tappet or solid roller tappet camshaft.

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I use this method with a breaker bar and socket. I am 58 years old and was told to do it this way when I was 20 years old and had just installed my first solid lifter cam. Been doing it for 38 years and haven't worn out a starter yet doing it this way.

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I am goiung to rant for awehile in fact been waiting for ths one. First do you really think that that the guy at chrysler had no idea where the cam lobes are on a v/8 with are firing order and was drunk at the time so wanted to screw with us? If so take the time to check where they are next assembly. Ever heard of cycle life? I have no idea if my starting system is going to work for one or one thousand times before I hit the start button in staging and nothing. I have watched guy cycle that system for like 50 times to set 16 valves and tell me they stopped at the exact same place as last time. When I set the dampener to the timing mark there is no Question it is where it was last time. Any change in that valve at that exact piont? That's what I want to know. Yes I use the open close thing when at the track and time is important but in my mind I am close enough for the next round. When I get it home and have time then it will be dead nuts on. Just to through this in I am old enough to have done the set them running and listen for the click or try to use feeler gauge. Hot oil bath from hell etc. etc. I though I had died and gone to heaven the first time I saw the chart for nonrunning valve adj. Never set an another valve running in my life also have not worn out a starting system trying to set valves.

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With iron heads and block, adjust according to specs.

Alum. heads add .006 Alum. heads and block add .012" approx.

Edit: What Bob says for cold setting iron heads and block!
Mark

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Subtract, don't add.

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Oooops !!!! Sorry about that!
Of course you are correct.

Bad enough I have CRS, now I am thinking backwards too!

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I am goiung to rant for awehile in fact been waiting for ths one. First do you really think that that the guy at chrysler had no idea where the cam lobes are on a v/8 with are firing order and was drunk at the time so wanted to screw with us? If so take the time to check where they are next assembly. Ever heard of cycle life? I have no idea if my starting system is going to work for one or one thousand times before I hit the start button in staging and nothing. I have watched guy cycle that system for like 50 times to set 16 valves and tell me they stopped at the exact same place as last time. When I set the dampener to the timing mark there is no Question it is where it was last time. Any change in that valve at that exact piont? That's what I want to know. Yes I use the open close thing when at the track and time is important but in my mind I am close enough for the next round. When I get it home and have time then it will be dead nuts on. Just to through this in I am old enough to have done the set them running and listen for the click or try to use feeler gauge. Hot oil bath from hell etc. etc. I though I had died and gone to heaven the first time I saw the chart for nonrunning valve adj. Never set an another valve running in my life also have not worn out a starting system trying to set valves.

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If you think the "chart" is accurate for every cam and every motor out there, you don't understand how cam timing works. It is NOT accurate, unless your cam timing HAPPENS to be close to what things were when that chart was designed in the 60s...........So which would you rather do. Use a starter up, although if you are worried about that, you may need to invest in a good starter, or drop a valve from improper valve adjustment.

Monte

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Take Monte's advise, that chart has been invalid for years.If you don't believe it's not try a test,take a modern performance cam of 550 to 660 lift,set it by the chart.Either before or after warmup check the lash with the tried and proven method recommend(exhaust opening,intake closing)and you will find in some cases the lash will be .005+- loose or .005+- tight.Will it run?sure but what results will occur?Take the larger solid flat and roller cams and you can cause catastrophic failures.Even on a Hemi 550 lift hydraulic cam you will find that chart method will cause issues and failure.We always set lash on new builds with the intake manifolds off and the lifters on true bottom base circle.Use the chart at your own risk and let other choose the correct method for the cam techonology of this century.I have never set valves on a running engine,solid or hydraulic in the last 30 years.

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Geez. I was just trying to help Mike.
He's got a fairly stock Hemi engine that I'm almost positive doesn't have a roller cam.
Mike chime in and help me please.
Oh and by the way I know someone who STILL uses the "chart method" and hasn't suffered any sort of catastrophic failure...

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No one is saying it can't be used.I will work with most early style cams like 490 and 509 and many of the old style that have a wide base circle.Read carefully the post about the newer type of cams.Comp Cams and others recommend the method we suggested.If your comfortable and confident with the chart method stay with it.With the aggressive cam designs today running too loose or too tight cam beat cams,lifters and valve train componants to death.The question was asked,answered and explained to the best of my and others knowledge.This knowledge was based on years of engine building and racing.It's the readers choise of how they want to adjust their valves and it's fine to disagree.We explained how we do it and why,remember there are many diffrent ways to skin a cat.Myself I start with a dead cat,not much chance of getting scratched or hurt.