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Has anyone had their heads O-ringed for the intake? Is it FHO that offers that? Is there room within that thin area between the port and bolt?

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I just don't buy this "it is a HEMI so it is going to use oil, put up with it". I built 12 big block Chevy's, all the way to an all aluminum ZL-1 before most of the world knew there was one, NONE of them used oil. My last one was 11.6 to 1 steel head in a full size 70 Chevelle with air, 3:31 gear, turbo 400 and after 500 miles, it got 30 weight Mobile 1. Never leaked or used oil. That was in 95'. Same engine still in car, sold it to a buddy and it still doesn't use oil. Hell, I used to drive it on weekend trips, several hundred miles on 93 no lead, remember 11.6 to 1., iron heads, 4,000lb. Careful hand blending piston dome, Zero deck height, combustion chamber work and distributor curve WITH vacume advance! Don't tell me that I can't build a HEMI that doesn't use oil!

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I just don't buy this "it is a HEMI so it is going to use oil, put up with it". I built 12 big block Chevy's, all the way to an all aluminum ZL-1 before most of the world knew there was one, NONE of them used oil. My last one was 11.6 to 1 steel head in a full size 70 Chevelle with air, 3:31 gear, turbo 400 and after 500 miles, it got 30 weight Mobile 1. Never leaked or used oil. That was in 95'. Same engine still in car, sold it to a buddy and it still doesn't use oil. Hell, I used to drive it on weekend trips, several hundred miles on 93 no lead, remember 11.6 to 1., iron heads, 4,000lb. Careful hand blending piston dome, Zero deck height, combustion chamber work and distributor curve WITH vacume advance! Don't tell me that I can't build a HEMI that doesn't use oil!

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A motor is a motor is a motor. If your's uses oil, fix it. It's no different than any other motor. If it's sealed it won't pull oil. If it's not it will, end of story. There plenty of Hemi's out there that don't suck oil. There's also plenty of B/B Chevy's that drink it. If you've built plenty of motors that worked you should have a going working knowledge of what it takes. The fact that it's a Hemi has nothing to do with it.
Just my 2 cents
Doug

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I think that the fact that it is a Hemi does have something to do with it.

Sucking oil into the intake is not a frequent problem with 440s and such. But with these Hemiroids it is an ongoing issue. Personally, I have never had this problem on any of my big blocks. And I often re-use the valley pan.

But most Hemis I have been around have had to deal with this at one time or another.

Is it because of the angle of the intake bolts?

Just my

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I just don't buy this "it is a HEMI so it is going to use oil, put up with it". I built 12 big block Chevy's, all the way to an all aluminum ZL-1 before most of the world knew there was one, NONE of them used oil. My last one was 11.6 to 1 steel head in a full size 70 Chevelle with air, 3:31 gear, turbo 400 and after 500 miles, it got 30 weight Mobile 1. Never leaked or used oil. That was in 95'. Same engine still in car, sold it to a buddy and it still doesn't use oil. Hell, I used to drive it on weekend trips, several hundred miles on 93 no lead, remember 11.6 to 1., iron heads, 4,000lb. Careful hand blending piston dome, Zero deck height, combustion chamber work and distributor curve WITH vacume advance! Don't tell me that I can't build a HEMI that doesn't use oil!

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Why all the Drama over an Intake Gasket Leak ???!!

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I just don't buy this "it is a HEMI so it is going to use oil, put up with it". I built 12 big block Chevy's, all the way to an all aluminum ZL-1 before most of the world knew there was one, NONE of them used oil. My last one was 11.6 to 1 steel head in a full size 70 Chevelle with air, 3:31 gear, turbo 400 and after 500 miles, it got 30 weight Mobile 1. Never leaked or used oil. That was in 95'. Same engine still in car, sold it to a buddy and it still doesn't use oil. Hell, I used to drive it on weekend trips, several hundred miles on 93 no lead, remember 11.6 to 1., iron heads, 4,000lb. Careful hand blending piston dome, Zero deck height, combustion chamber work and distributor curve WITH vacume advance! Don't tell me that I can't build a HEMI that doesn't use oil!

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Why all the Drama over an Intake Gasket Leak ???!!

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Well, I hope everyone else is having a great Labor Day weekend, mine is a bust. Just to review, I discovered that I had oil wicking THROUGH my paper composition intake gaskets. Sealed to both intake and head with silicone but POURING THROUGH the paper! So I installed .060 Superformance gaskets dry except for the end rails as instructed. Result, oil pouring AROUND the gasket even with clear imprint showing good compression into the gasket! Over a quart in 70 miles! That was two weekends ago. I started talking to old time engine builders, racers etc. First comment, NO ONE runs dry intake gaskets with high rpm or large cubic inch, (over 500) engines. A good friend and former HEMI super stock racer agreed to help if I would listen to him. No one else offered to step foot in the garage so I took him up on his offer.
He used .060 and .090 wire to space the manifold up and check for matching intake/manifold angles (also double checked with angle finder). This also showed a little better port alignment at .090. He suggested that .090 would also allow more gasket crush/bite. Next he told me to stud the intake. That way all the torque would be crushing the gasket vs. being used to thread into the heads.
Lastly, he told me to buy "Honda Bond" to use as a sealer. It is now Thursday night, long weekend, and the two largest car shows of the year coming up back to back. The second one requires a drive of almost three hundred miles round trip. I started ordering parts Red Label. I know better, something always goes wrong when it JUST HAS TO GET HERE BY FRIDAY!
In order to make up .090", I had to order two sets of Superformance gaskets, one 030 and one 060. Then studs, McMaster Car was the only place I could find that had 1/4-20 studs 3-1/2" long with 1" thread on either end. That was discovered on Friday so I had a "Saturday" next day air on those! all told, over $135 just on shipping!
Saturday morning was spent at the track watching the Pro Mod race. Several of the racers are friends. One runs an all aluminum 8-71 blown HEMI. I talked to ALL of them, they confirmed that they had to use either 3M weatherstrip adhesive or "import silicone" on the intake gaskets or they would have to pick them out of the exhaust ports! So I go home and get started waiting for my SS buddy to arrive. First I install my studs with a drop of Blue Locktight to "refusal" (as deep as they would go as per instructions). My buddie arrives and final inspects everything, one more wipe down with laquer thinner and he opens the gaskets on a clean work bench,,,,,,one is clearly market 060 with part#, the other is clearly marked 030 with DIFFERENT part#, and ALL FOUR GASKETS MEASURE 030"!!!!! CHECKED WITH A MICROMETER!!!!!!! I AM TOTALLY SCREWED!!!!!!!

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Well, I hope everyone else is having a great Labor Day weekend, mine is a bust. Just to review, I discovered that I had oil wicking THROUGH my paper composition intake gaskets. Sealed to both intake and head with silicone but POURING THROUGH the paper! So I installed .060 Superformance gaskets dry except for the end rails as instructed. Result, oil pouring AROUND the gasket even with clear imprint showing good compression into the gasket! Over a quart in 70 miles! That was two weekends ago. I started talking to old time engine builders, racers etc. First comment, NO ONE runs dry intake gaskets with high rpm or large cubic inch, (over 500) engines. A good friend and former HEMI super stock racer agreed to help if I would listen to him. No one else offered to step foot in the garage so I took him up on his offer.
He used .060 and .090 wire to space the manifold up and check for matching intake/manifold angles (also double checked with angle finder). This also showed a little better port alignment at .090. He suggested that .090 would also allow more gasket crush/bite. Next he told me to stud the intake. That way all the torque would be crushing the gasket vs. being used to thread into the heads.
Lastly, he told me to buy "Honda Bond" to use as a sealer. It is now Thursday night, long weekend, and the two largest car shows of the year coming up back to back. The second one requires a drive of almost three hundred miles round trip. I started ordering parts Red Label. I know better, something always goes wrong when it JUST HAS TO GET HERE BY FRIDAY!
In order to make up .090", I had to order two sets of Superformance gaskets, one 030 and one 060. Then studs, McMaster Car was the only place I could find that had 1/4-20 studs 3-1/2" long with 1" thread on either end. That was discovered on Friday so I had a "Saturday" next day air on those! all told, over $135 just on shipping!
Saturday morning was spent at the track watching the Pro Mod race. Several of the racers are friends. One runs an all aluminum 8-71 blown HEMI. I talked to ALL of them, they confirmed that they had to use either 3M weatherstrip adhesive or "import silicone" on the intake gaskets or they would have to pick them out of the exhaust ports! So I go home and get started waiting for my SS buddy to arrive. First I install my studs with a drop of Blue Locktight to "refusal" (as deep as they would go as per instructions). My buddie arrives and final inspects everything, one more wipe down with laquer thinner and he opens the gaskets on a clean work bench,,,,,,one is clearly market 060 with part#, the other is clearly marked 030 with DIFFERENT part#, and ALL FOUR GASKETS MEASURE 030"!!!!! CHECKED WITH A MICROMETER!!!!!!! I AM TOTALLY SCREWED!!!!!!!

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Lyn I received a phone call from a friend last night about this thread and I'm extremely sorry for the mislabeled product!! Where did you purchase them from so I can take corrective measures.

If the gaskets are wet 1/2 way up I'll venture to say you have a clamp load problem, as we discussed in a previous phone conversation. I can envision the gasket getting "wet" with oil but the material we use will not be oil "soaked".
As for the suggestion of using an adhesive it was just referred to hold the gasket in place, not to do any sealing. Also as Cab mentioned, machining the intake to have more "bite" at the bottom was suggested in our conversation. The amount of extra bite would be debatable and I'd assume .003" would be a lot considering the density of our material.

We did discuss what you may have used for lube or sealer on the bolt threads the first go around and the possibility of it throwing off your actual clamp load vs torque readings so I'd suggest Hylomar Universal Blue on the threads of the studs in the head and 30 weight oil on the nuts and washers at this point.

There are a number of racers who use these gaskets without sealing aids and when all is right have no oil consumption issues, including large C.I. high RPM race motors.

One can only do so much over the internet and phone to assist in difficult situations like your experiencing.


Please let me know what I can do to help make things right for you on receiving the mislabeled product.
Again I'm sorry for any hardship this may have caused.

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Well, I hope everyone else is having a great Labor Day weekend, mine is a bust. Just to review, I discovered that I had oil wicking THROUGH my paper composition intake gaskets. Sealed to both intake and head with silicone but POURING THROUGH the paper! So I installed .060 Superformance gaskets dry except for the end rails as instructed. Result, oil pouring AROUND the gasket even with clear imprint showing good compression into the gasket! Over a quart in 70 miles! That was two weekends ago. I started talking to old time engine builders, racers etc. First comment, NO ONE runs dry intake gaskets with high rpm or large cubic inch, (over 500) engines. A good friend and former HEMI super stock racer agreed to help if I would listen to him. No one else offered to step foot in the garage so I took him up on his offer.
He used .060 and .090 wire to space the manifold up and check for matching intake/manifold angles (also double checked with angle finder). This also showed a little better port alignment at .090. He suggested that .090 would also allow more gasket crush/bite. Next he told me to stud the intake. That way all the torque would be crushing the gasket vs. being used to thread into the heads.
Lastly, he told me to buy "Honda Bond" to use as a sealer. It is now Thursday night, long weekend, and the two largest car shows of the year coming up back to back. The second one requires a drive of almost three hundred miles round trip. I started ordering parts Red Label. I know better, something always goes wrong when it JUST HAS TO GET HERE BY FRIDAY!
In order to make up .090", I had to order two sets of Superformance gaskets, one 030 and one 060. Then studs, McMaster Car was the only place I could find that had 1/4-20 studs 3-1/2" long with 1" thread on either end. That was discovered on Friday so I had a "Saturday" next day air on those! all told, over $135 just on shipping!
Saturday morning was spent at the track watching the Pro Mod race. Several of the racers are friends. One runs an all aluminum 8-71 blown HEMI. I talked to ALL of them, they confirmed that they had to use either 3M weatherstrip adhesive or "import silicone" on the intake gaskets or they would have to pick them out of the exhaust ports! So I go home and get started waiting for my SS buddy to arrive. First I install my studs with a drop of Blue Locktight to "refusal" (as deep as they would go as per instructions). My buddie arrives and final inspects everything, one more wipe down with laquer thinner and he opens the gaskets on a clean work bench,,,,,,one is clearly market 060 with part#, the other is clearly marked 030 with DIFFERENT part#, and ALL FOUR GASKETS MEASURE 030"!!!!! CHECKED WITH A MICROMETER!!!!!!! I AM TOTALLY SCREWED!!!!!!!

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Lyn I received a phone call from a friend last night about this thread and I'm extremely sorry for the mislabeled product!! Where did you purchase them from so I can take corrective measures.

If the gaskets are wet 1/2 way up I'll venture to say you have a clamp load problem, as we discussed in a previous phone conversation. I can envision the gasket getting "wet" with oil but the material we use will not be oil "soaked".
As for the suggestion of using an adhesive it was just referred to hold the gasket in place, not to do any sealing. Also as Cab mentioned, machining the intake to have more "bite" at the bottom was suggested in our conversation. The amount of extra bite would be debatable and I'd assume .003" would be a lot considering the density of our material.

We did discuss what you may have used for lube or sealer on the bolt threads the first go around and the possibility of it throwing off your actual clamp load vs torque readings so I'd suggest Hylomar Universal Blue on the threads of the studs in the head and 30 weight oil on the nuts and washers at this point.

There are a number of racers who use these gaskets without sealing aids and when all is right have no oil consumption issues, including large C.I. high RPM race motors.

One can only do so much over the internet and phone to assist in difficult situations like your experiencing.


Please let me know what I can do to help make things right for you on receiving the mislabeled product.
Again I'm sorry for any hardship this may have caused.

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Hey man, no problem, I wish I had only made one mislabeled mistake in MY business! LOL. But I am in a bind, I bought the product from Mancini and they are trying to help me. Problem is, if I needed the gaskets bad enough last week to pay over $100 shipping to Mancini, then to say that I am desperate at this point is an understatement! They are trying to sort this out, but I need .062 GASKETS ASAP! Here is the deal, my wife loves this car show that I am getting ready for, she has made reservations etc. I am in the DOG house if I can't get the car ready on time, and if you think the shipping cost were bad, you don't even want to know what we will lose in hotel reservations! LOL. I did have a good weekend though, with all the "spare time" I suddenly had, she had me rebuild the commode in the spare bath, push mow the yard (93 degrees) and the list goes on! LOL. Things happen, usually when you are down to the wire and start ordering stuff Red Label! It is just "carma". I know you will help out, just get me the 062" gaskets and we will still be "buds".

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