after an few hours of killing myself ...

Im working on a 66 Coronet that was changed over to the DC/Mopar Electronic..that is eating ballast resisters..So we are going over to a MSD 6AL set up...

How are any of you hooking up the power wire that turns the box on and off ( key on / Key off ) without using a toggle switch ? I have tired connecting to (ING 1 side ) 12volts only during key on..

If you hook up the MSD box per the is wire diagram .. it tells you to hook it to the old coil on the pos side ( ING 2 side power during starting )...

doesnt work .. when you let off the key it drops the 12volts off that wire...as well

there no true key on power on the fuse box..same thing there turn the key to crank the motor and the fuse box drops the 12volt ...

Im sure its me going wrong...

thanks all ...

I was aiming for the radio keyed wire when I inadvertently hooked it to the ignition key buzzer so to shut the car off, I had to take the key all the way out.

The manual should be available online and they more then likely have a forum that can help figure it out as well. I tried several of those in my Dart and could never get one to run longer then 6 months what with the crappy wiring and my luck so I gave up.
They even rebuilt two for free and still no luck.

I had the exact same problem back in 2006. I don't have my book handy to get more detail, but i remember that there is 2 ign wires coming of the ignition switch. One is hot only during cranking, the other is hot anytime the key is on. You have connected the MSD to the wrong wire.

Edit: I found a wiring diagram. If you hook the msd to the brown wire, you have this problem. Hook it to the dark blue with a stripe wire. Good luck, Joel

dark blue w/yellow trace ,,,ya thats (ING 1) when you turn the key to start the 12 volts drops from that wire ...

there was/is fake msd boxes around

Try hooking if to both the blue and the brown at the same time, that ought work.

Are you useing a ballast? You dont need it. I made a dummy Ballast that lets the voltage flow through it. Same as if the two ballast wires were hooked together.

yes the ballest is there ... i did tie both wires together(unhooked from the ballest) but..
when i did the split sec where there is no power on ether wire it was enough that the box powered down and stop running,,,

One IGN wire is supplying voltage ONLY when running (not cranking), the other is supplying voltage when cranking, and this circuit jumps the old ballast resistor and supplies a full 12v to the coil when cranking to help with starting.

You need to tie both of this circuits from the switch to the 12v key /switch input to the box. One will enable the ignition when cranking, and the other will when switch is in run position.

I'm not sure the color codes are the same for a Dart, but I can look when I get home (much) later today....

How do you have the box wired otherwise? Which coil? Ballast resistor should not be needed assuming you are running a Blaster 2 coil with your box.

I have my red 12v feed for my MSD hooked to the ballast resistor with the dual-wire lead/plug. I had problems just like this. I thought I had a good 12v source ( which I did ), but with the key in IGN2 when cranking, the 12v was interrupted on the single wire side of the ballast. So, I swapped it around after some mentoring here on moparts and voila, it worked. I too have replaced the coil resistor of the ballast resistor with a straight gauge-appropriate wire, 12v in, 12v out.......

Attached is a picture of the engine bay, you'll see where my 12v feed it placed on the one side of the ballast resistor. I just used a "T" adaptor.

The wires that connect to the ballast resistor need to be making a connection, whether they're spliced together, or connected to a gutted ballast, or the ballast is in place.

My 12v key operated source is the original coil positive like the instructions say to do, and I took my ballast resistor apart and soldiered a wire between the two terminals, then filled with epoxy.

The MSD needs to be hooked to both the 12 volt run and 12 volt start circuits (ign 1 & ign 2) and the easiest way to do it is just hook your old coil + wire to the MSD run circuit and then jump the ballast together. Then you have 12 volts in run and 12 volts when cranking. The 12 volt bypass while cranking is still there but its just not bypassing the ballast as you dont need the ballast with the MSD so the 12 volt crank circuit lets it start while cranking. Ron

As said numerous times above you must have 12V during both the "start" (key in "start" position) and "run" (key in "on" position). The best place to tap into this is where they meet at the now unused ballast resistor. I had a truck with a 6AL and somehow the "start" circuit stopped working. It took me a while to figure out that my intermittent no start condition was actually the MSD box not being turned on while cranking. Everyone and a while the engine was rolling over enoughwhen the key went back to "run" that is would light. The key buzzer story is very funny!