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A833 Rebuild #1649190
07/21/14 12:02 PM
07/21/14 12:02 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,161
CT
GTX MATT Offline OP
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GTX MATT  Offline OP
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Any good info out there and rebuilding an 833, or tips/advice? My synchros are a bit ornery, 2nd is ok, just not good enough to get a clean powershift. 3rd and 4th will grind, so I've just be double clutching to avoid it.


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: GTX MATT] #1649191
07/21/14 12:40 PM
07/21/14 12:40 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 768
Maryville tn
67coronetman Offline
super stock
67coronetman  Offline
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Maryville tn
I used brewers for all my parts and i got a CD Disc for mine and me and a buddy did it all and it worked great..


Old car are me......
Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: GTX MATT] #1649192
07/21/14 02:00 PM
07/21/14 02:00 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Any good info out there and rebuilding an 833, or tips/advice? My synchros are a bit ornery, 2nd is ok, just not good enough to get a clean powershift. 3rd and 4th will grind, so I've just be double clutching to avoid it.




Have you checked your clutch adjustment ? Open the air gap some and see if that helps ???

Nothing to it otherwise. You need a GOOD pair of snap ring pliers, not that silly one with the interchangable tips, for the big rings holding the bearings on.

I have stoned the syncro hubs and sliders to remove the burrs, ATF is not steel on steel friendly. Get a new clusterpin and make sure it's not OD length or you'll have a leak point between the trans and the bellhousing.

Get a piece of 3/4" electrical PVC and make a dummy shaft that is the same length as the clustergear with thrust washers to keep the rollers in the cluster gear in place when you put the shaft back in.

The fun will be getting the reverse lever out because you have to remove the reverse idler and shaft by using the tool used for changing out the 727 shift shaft tool and a small 1/4 drive socket , but if it's not leaking skip that. but if you have to pull any of the shift shafts make sure you deburr them before pulling them thru the bores.

Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: GTX MATT] #1649193
07/21/14 03:10 PM
07/21/14 03:10 PM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
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Steve Bryant Offline
mopar
Steve Bryant  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
Here is a photo of the grease and the pliers. These are not the best pliers but you need some with the notches as shown and the patterned "teeth" on the face to grip better.

Last winter, I rebuilt my A833 and I had zero experience with transmissions. I didn't do anything wrong but I didn't do one thing I should have.

First, here are some good links. I would read these through-and-through. Some ideas (like a little ATV sealant here and there or a good order for removing and installing parts) are worth their weight in gold.

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/four-speed-manual.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techa...r_speed_tranny/
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=166041
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=5367516

Second, buy yourself some good pliers and I would pick up a little tranny assembly grease when you need something to stick during assembly.

For my rebuild, I leaned on Wayne/Dan from Brewers for support. They were kind enough to look at pictures and make recommendations when I was determining what to replace and what to reuse. Brewers can get parts out the door very quickly and the parts are top-notch.

I am a novice and not a great judge of what can be reused and what should be replaced. I was right about all the parts except for my #3 Synchro. I should have replaced it. If I had to do it again, I would have replaced all sliders and all synchos. Instead, I have to pull my A833 this winter to replace a single stupid synchro that grinds a little into 3rd.

If the tranny is old and you don't want to open it again any time soon, I would replace both shaft bearings, all sliders, all synchros, all rollers, spacers and thrust rings plus all the washers/seals/snap rings This will be a little over $300 but hopefully the last time you have to pull it.

There are smarter people on this board who are better at transmissions that I am and they can help you decide what to scrap and what to keep but I am not that clever so I just replaced all the parts that wear quickly. You may also want to post photos of the gears and splines once you open it up.

It may be that you can make the correction you want for a set of synchros, but I would seriously consider getting a rebuild kit for about $120, new sliders for about $120 and then the rings you need.

I am happy to help share any photos or experience I had.

-Steve

8215436-pliers.jpg (98 downloads)
Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: Steve Bryant] #1649194
07/21/14 03:18 PM
07/21/14 03:18 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Steve , those look like the pliers I have , 2 sets , one set I modified the tips on, they worked fine for me on the rebuilds I've done.

Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: JohnRR] #1649195
07/21/14 03:28 PM
07/21/14 03:28 PM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
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Steve Bryant Offline
mopar
Steve Bryant  Offline
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Georgia
Thanks JohnRR. I had no complaints with the pliers. I've heard stories of the problems with removing the snap rings but my work went smooth with this tool.

One thing I did learn is some of the old rings will twist and warp out of shape when removed. I was glad Brewer's rebuild kit came with brand new ones so I didn't mind bending them a little if I had to.

Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: Steve Bryant] #1649196
07/21/14 07:27 PM
07/21/14 07:27 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,161
CT
GTX MATT Offline OP
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GTX MATT  Offline OP
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Unfortunately I've played with the clutch adjustment until I had no play in the pedal, and it still does it (can't check airgap as I have a scatter shield). It looked a bit worn when I put it in when I took the side cover off. Even pushing the clutch 1/3 of the way down will allow me to shift, and has no appreciable effect on how loudly it grinds.

I plan to go through it all, not just throw different synchros in. Its a '67 18 spline, if it makes any difference.


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: GTX MATT] #1649197
07/21/14 08:01 PM
07/21/14 08:01 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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JohnRR  Offline
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Quote:



I plan to go through it all, not just throw different synchros in. Its a '67 18 spline, if it makes any difference.




Just make sure you get the good syncro rings , be wary of NOS package MP rings for that style syncro. The plus for you is the cheaper 307 bearings used pre 68 in Hemi 4 spds.

Me, I switch to the 71 up style syncros OD trans are a good source for most of the parts and just buy a new 3-4 hub, and switch to the iron forks, I've broken a few 3-4 brass forks.

Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: JohnRR] #1649198
07/21/14 08:56 PM
07/21/14 08:56 PM
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
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Steve Bryant Offline
mopar
Steve Bryant  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
Borrow a good heavy dead-blow hammer too. There will be times when you want/need to hit something with some force and you absolutely do not want to whack any of those parts with a hammer.

-Steve

Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: Steve Bryant] #1649199
07/22/14 01:50 PM
07/22/14 01:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,479
Minnesota
Hemi_Joel Offline
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I have found that it powershifts better if I use some 100 grit sandpaper to scuff the cone on the gear, so the brass grabs better. And use ATF, it shifts better than gear lube. John is right, AFT probably doesn't lube as good. So the tranny won't last as long. But if you are throwing power shifts, you'll have it apart long before the ATF wears out the bushings.


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Re: A833 Rebuild [Re: Hemi_Joel] #1649200
07/22/14 02:02 PM
07/22/14 02:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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JohnRR Offline
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JohnRR  Offline
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Quote:

I have found that it powershifts better if I use some 100 grit sandpaper to scuff the cone on the gear, so the brass grabs better. And use ATF, it shifts better than gear lube. John is right, AFT probably doesn't lube as good. So the tranny won't last as long. But if you are throwing power shifts, you'll have it apart long before the ATF wears out the bushings.




Joel the 833's I've rebuilt that had ATF show a lot of wear on the cluster pin, one I did you could catch a nail on the wear groove.

For short cycles ATF is probably OK, I just did a fill with syncromesh , I'm curious how it's going to shift , haven't driven it yet.







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