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I bought a gallon of PPG Omni (F6 Bright Green) with the intent of spraying my trunk, engine compartment and jambs and maybe saving a couple bucks on my paint job. A paint shop will finish the job using Glasurit. I mixed it 50/50 with omni medium reducer, and the stuff sprays like green water. I figure it will take 3-4 coats to get full coverage. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? I'm certainly no painter.

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I bought a gallon of PPG Omni (F6 Bright Green) with the intent of spraying my trunk, engine compartment and jambs and maybe saving a couple bucks on my paint job. A paint shop will finish the job using Glasurit. I mixed it 50/50 with omni medium reducer, and the stuff sprays like green water. I figure it will take 3-4 coats to get full coverage. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? I'm certainly no painter.

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one word, GARBAGE! ,the watered-down junk takes more coats, mre coats take more time, spend few buck more on better paint and save the hassle,oh,and whatever you do, do not use their clears, that stuff comes off the car in sheets in couple of months, I've seen it with my own eyes,my brother's shop had to re-do a few cars when they tried that GARBAGE OMNI line

Stefan

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As is the majority of the PPG line

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one word, GARBAGE! ,the watered-down junk takes more coats, mre coats take more time, spend few buck more on better paint and save the hassle,oh,and whatever you do, do not use their clears, that stuff comes off the car in sheets in couple of months, I've seen it with my own eyes,my brother's shop had to re-do a few cars when they tried that GARBAGE OMNI line

Stefan

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50/50 doesnt sound right

3 or 4 parts paint : 1 part reducer

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i am a PPG certified painter for more than 25 years. i really haven't had ANY problems with PPG paints.
if OMNI clear coat falls off in sheets why hasn't it on my car painted over 6 years ago.
you must have slammed the base coat on WAY to fast or waited to long before clear coating.

the problems with the base coats being to thin is because the older colors were not reformulated for base coat just converted over to base coat. when this happens they take the single stage formula and add the clear tint them add base coat binders. when they do that it has 2X as much clear tint in the formula than if it were single stage color.

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one word, GARBAGE! ,the watered-down junk takes more coats, mre coats take more time, spend few buck more on better paint and save the hassle,oh,and whatever you do, do not use their clears, that stuff comes off the car in sheets in couple of months, I've seen it with my own eyes,my brother's shop had to re-do a few cars when they tried that GARBAGE OMNI line

Stefan

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As is the majority of the PPG line

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WOW! That's really sad to hear...especially as an OE supplier for the Big 3 for so many years...no WONDER they're all on the verge of bankruptcy...

In my past experience both using products and watching others, 99% of problems stem from the craftsman, yet gets blamed on the product. Improper prep, not enough flash time, not mixing the ratios correctly, insufficient heat...you name it. Fact is, I've seen all the aforementioned problems with PPG/Omni, DuPont/Nason, Martin Senour (big through NAPA up here years ago), and NONE of these products like to be treated the same. I know of one shop that will only use PPG primers, but prefers DuPonts lineup for paint. Apparently a no-no (according to the dist), but it works fine for him.

And lets not forget the gun...if, as mentioned, the paint is somewhat thin to begin with, and the gun is putting as much paint in the air as it is on the car...well, you get the idea...

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i am a PPG certified painter for more than 25 years. i really haven't had ANY problems with PPG paints.
if OMNI clear coat falls off in sheets why hasn't it on my car painted over 6 years ago.
you must have slammed the base coat on WAY to fast or waited to long before clear coating.

the problems with the base coats being to thin is because the older colors were not reformulated for base coat just converted over to base coat. when this happens they take the single stage formula and add the clear tint them add base coat binders. when they do that it has 2X as much clear tint in the formula than if it were single stage color.

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please read my post a bit closer, I said that I've seen few cars at my brother's shop, I do not use PPG watered down paint ,OMNI garbage or anything that has "PPG" label on it,

to me it seems the cause of delamination is wrong binders that are not compatible with the clearcoat,or OMNI clearcoat is not compatible with other paint brands,which I think my brother's shop were trying to use at the time of failure


to the OP, if you're trying to save a buck,look into Matrix paint line, nothing can touch it for the coverage,ease of use,oh and the price

http://www.matrixsystem.com/index.php


Stefan

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let me clear that up for you AGAIN, theese were NOT MY cars or cars of my customers and have NOTHING to do with my shop,MY BROTHER'S SHOP was doing the work, NOT my shop! And the guys who painted those cars are actually very experienced painters and can paint a side of a bus and it'll look like glass without orangepeel or sags ,they can take most of the so-called painters on theese boards to school

Then why cant they make it work? A good painter can make ANY paint system work,

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I never sprayed PPG Omni but I did have my Omni sparyed with PPG (PR4 Flame Red)?

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I was waiting for this one