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Electric gremlins (long) #1637815
06/23/14 11:58 PM
06/23/14 11:58 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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My 74 Scamp 440 sometimes when you turn the key doesn't do anything. I can sometimes move the floor shifter (auto console) and it will crank. Sometimes when it starts the fuel and temp gauge wont work. The other day it wouldn't do anything turning the key and the shifter deal didn't make a difference. I though all along maybe the neural switch was bad or needed adjusted. Anyhow I had no headlights or any anything. I though the battery wire was lose. it was a little but should have made enough contact to make something work. I jiggled the bunch of wires where it all goes into the fuse block and stuff started working. I turned the ignition switch on and a turn signal. I could move the wires around and make it stop working or start again. I am wondering what is the main power wire that feeds the whole thing. I did see a fusable link, is that the main power wire?

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637816
06/24/14 12:45 AM
06/24/14 12:45 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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power comes from the batt to starter relay to fusible link then to/thru the bulkhead & inside it goes to/thru the ammeter then to a T & the ign sw/headlight switch/some fuse box circuits/horn/brake lights are all hot all the time. Yes I would resolder/recrimp/checkout all of the loose areas you mentioned starting with the bulkhead. You might want to permanently ground the "grn" lug on the starter relay to bypass the NSS but I'd get all the terminals/connections shipshape & go from there


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Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637817
06/24/14 12:48 AM
06/24/14 12:48 AM
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Grand Prairie,Texas
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Where the wires run through the fire wall that big plug set gets corroded and the red main wire burns the contacts. Take it apart and check the wire terminals. I think you will find the big one burnt.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: stumpy] #1637818
06/24/14 02:05 AM
06/24/14 02:05 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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Quote:

Where the wires run through the fire wall that big plug set gets corroded and the red main wire burns the contacts. Take it apart and check the wire terminals. I think you will find the big one burnt.




Thanks to you all. I will check it out tomorrow.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637819
06/24/14 08:07 AM
06/24/14 08:07 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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With the 440 and the M/P cast aluminum valve cover is very close to the bulkhead. I may take the valve cover off before I disconnect the wire connections. The fusible link seems a little soft... maybe it has a bad connection in it.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637820
06/24/14 11:02 PM
06/24/14 11:02 PM
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I removed the connections from the bulkhead and cleaned them up with a wire brush. They were a little dark but really not bad. I tried the best I could to clean up the female sockets on the bulkhead. I have everything working now but the starter with the igniton switch and the temp and fuel gauge. I even grounded the temp gauge and it didnt move. I can wiggle the bulkhead wires around and it dosent make any difference now so I am making progress. I can jump the starter solinoid and it starts. Out of time for tonight.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637821
06/24/14 11:40 PM
06/24/14 11:40 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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Quote:

I can jump the starter solinoid and it starts.


(1) Jump fire to the "ign" terminal ON the starter relay & see if it cranks/starts from that/not using the ign key & have it in park or neutral. This terminal has the yellow wire/connector on it. (2) With a jumper wire with alligator clips ground the "grn" terminal on the starter relay to nearby ground & see if it will crank/start with the ign key (have yellow "ign" wire plugged back in). Try (2) first then (1). Holler back. EDIT you can use a male terminal to clean the female ones NAPA 725145 (last # might be 7 instead of 5) or grab a used one

Last edited by RapidRobert; 06/24/14 11:49 PM.

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Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637822
06/25/14 05:35 AM
06/25/14 05:35 AM
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Northern Calyfornua
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If anywhere like a 70 e body, check the connector that attaches the jumble of wires that exit the steering column(these include turn signals, starter circuit, ignition switch). This connector attaches exited steering column wiring to under dash wiring and at times certain wires can work loose in this connector causing random problems as you describe. It is a rather poor design.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: RapidRobert] #1637823
06/26/14 10:53 PM
06/26/14 10:53 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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Well good news. I grounded the "g" terminal and it fired right up. Im getting ready to craw under it and check the netural saftey switch wireing... I still dont have any gauges that work other than the alt gauge and the seat belt light.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637824
06/27/14 12:37 AM
06/27/14 12:37 AM
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Columbus Ohio
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Exhaust, floor shift linkage all in the way and gonna make it difficult to remove the switch. The reverse lights work so I figure there must be something wrong with the switch itself. The center wire supplies ground to the g terminal on the starter relay. I checked the fuse for the gauges and its good. Not geting power to it though. I did find a Valiant wiring diagram on MyMopar.com. Im gonna print it and check it out tomorrow.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: mopfried] #1637825
06/27/14 01:17 AM
06/27/14 01:17 AM
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Grand Prairie,Texas
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Your start problem may be as simple as a cable readjustment. Easiest way to check it is hold the key in the start position and slowly move the shifter from park to neutral. Be sure to keep your foot on the brake. If it turns over then you are just out of adjustment.

Re: Electric gremlins (long) [Re: stumpy] #1637826
06/27/14 08:12 PM
06/27/14 08:12 PM
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Columbus Ohio
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Thanks for the reply Stumpy but I have tried that. It didn't work. Im figuring the switch is bad, or the wiring to it. Its a 3 pin and the wire I jumped is a ground. I just gotta get time to pull the switch off and check the center pin for ground while someone moves the shifter slowly..







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