I have a couple of posts about my ignition problem and inquiry about converting over to electronic.


I have ordered a MSS 6al box and billet distributor

I am now looking for the gremlin(s) causing my voltage drop, I am measuring 8.5V at cranking and 5V on key or run both at the coil and ballast resistor. New key ignition in column and good bulkhead connections.

I measure 12.35v at the battery but when go into cranking I see a drop down to 9V so something is creating an excessive draw. I have good grounds to frame, battery block and I think the firewall. I will redo this to make sure but I put the car back together last year - things are new. I have 12V feed into switch but see the voltage drop on ignition 1 & 2 (Q & N bulkheads locations). I am now starting to question the alternator dual field and battery line.
Any thoughts on this, I am scraping the accel unilte & dual ballast and will go electronic, trying to get back to 12 volt current for the new system coming in. Basically going nuts trying to find the culprit.

Thanks

Your excessive draw at cranking is called the starter.

5v at the coil in run is semi-normal, what is the voltage at the feed end of the ballast? It should darn near be battery voltage, if not find out why.

Starter is very likely. If it is a bad starter update to the newer style very efficient,lightweight and cranks them over faster.

A weak battery will cause the drop also.Typically I like to see at least 12.6 at the battrey with no power on.Rocky

I am not seeing the 12V here, I am seeing the 8V on the key side which I am assuming is the feed side. I see the same 8v on the coil at cranking.

5V is semi-normal? What is normal, I cannot find a spec for this but have varying opinions.

Battery is a blem or recon from interstate, I will swap out to check also

thanks

If the battery drops to 9 volts its either the starter which should be pulling a huge amp.Or the battery is weak.The key wont have much to do with the 9 volts at the battery.Like I said 12.3 at the battery with no draw is marginal.I like to see at least 12.6.Rocky

if he has 12.3v at the battery and 8 at the ballast, in run, then his problem is not the battery.

I would sub in a known good/fully charged batt (if there's any doubt of its' condition). If the starter cranks fast enough to start it then the starting circuit is fine and if it does start when cranked then the ign system is good & being fed enough to fire it. I wouldn't sweat what you get for readings with the key on (eng off) & concentrate on what you get for running (charging) voltage at a fast idle at the power source (the alt) and the storage device (the batt) & if those ain't right then clean connections/terminals till you find/correct the high resistance (voltage drop) that's keepin it from being right . Your VOM is your friend