Having a problem on my roadrunner
I pretty much restored the car and runs good
the problem now is getting it started.

I have no spark on the ignition side coming out the coil
I have about 8-8.5 volts going in when cranking and measure over 5v
with key on. When I pull the wire out of the distributor I get nothing when cranking and see a spark just as I go back to key on.
On key side of the ballast resistor I measure the same as the coil.

I have replaced the ballast resistor, the ignition switch in the column and voltage regulator. I am running a unilite distributor with a filter for voltage spikes. The coil and all components were new last year. The bulkhead connector is new, shows no burns or melts and is well grease with dielectric. The battery is reading 12.35.

What volts should I see with key on and cranking?

Thanks for any feedback

Are u using points or an electronic ignition ? Put a direct wire from +battery to + coil and try to start. If it starts , then you know everything forward from that is ok. If it doesn't start , there are only a few things that keep it from starting. Let us know what happens and we'll take it from there.

I am using a Mallory unilite with a in line filter from Mallory to prevent any voltage spikes from taking out the module.

I did try the + coil to + battery with the key on and got nothing, I also replaced the coil with a sapre and got nothing to. I pulled the coil wire from the distributor and tested the spark. I get nothing or an occasional spark on ignition (cranking) and see a spark just as I go to the key.

Thanks

Pull the yellow wire terminal off of the "ign" lug on the starter relay to disable the starter (it cranks & no need to further run the batt down). Have a helper hold the key to "start" & you under the hood with your meter & see if (A) the coil positive primary terminal is getting voltage and (B) that the "hot in" terminal on the ECU pentastar connector is getting voltage. An OE 5 pin ECU (which has a functioning 5th pin) needs fire to the "hot in" pin and the pin the green/red wire goes to. Holler back when you can. That voltage does seem a bit low but lets see if the major components are being fed first. EDIT that dist is a regular type with the 2 leads that go to the ECU just like normal right? If so seperate the zizag pickup connector and drag the metal male half of the body side connector across the intake while you hold the dist end of the large coil wire 1/4" from the intake while a helper holds the key to start then lets off it so it's in "run" & holler if you get sparks both times. If so that's pointing to the dist as the culprit & I'm wondering if there ain't an issue with that dist. If no sparks or only sparks in run and or only in start then we'll continue on

It has "always " been my experience that when you get spark when you let off on the key , its been the module.
Try another module , I think it will start .

Actually if you get a spark when you turn the key off that says the module is working as you just break the circuit when you turn the key off and then the secondary coil winding collaspes just like when the ign is working normal. I would say that its not getting the dist signal telling the module when to turn the primary on and off. And if you get a nice hot spark when you turn the key off that will also tell you the run wireing and coil are all good. Did you try cranking it with the key in the run position and jumping the starter ? But to me it sounds like its not getting a dist signal but it is possible the module is grounding the primary circuit and not understanding the dist signal where that could then be a moldule. Either the dist is not sending its signal to the module or the module dont understand the signal. Ron

at the risk of sounding stupid
When you say module I am assuming you are refering to the module inside of the unilite. If so I did put a new one in last year and suspect this may be my weak link with the in line filter. I was thinking about bypassing the filter this evening after work.

Did you try cranking it with the key in the run position and jumping the starter ? I will try also this evening.


what is throwing me off is the voltage - I read that I should have no less than 10v at cranking and 7-8 at run (key on). I have neither of these, so I focused on the ignition side, firewall connector, resistor. I do not know what to look for in the ammeter circuit.
Ever since this started happening my ammeter shows it pegged but that is now the case with the key off so I believe my needle is stuck. I also show oil pressure gauge is pegged at run which is also the electric version. I plan on going to mechanical for a test once it starts up. I had my dash rebuilt so it is not old hardware, also I had a limiter put in on the ammeter side under the dash.

So I am back to my problem of no spark, I think something is grounding it out also. At one time the key is turned and I saw a great spark at ignition and then nothing, so this is definetly intermittent with more on the no spark side. I have all new grounding and double checked them last night.

thanks for the leads I will keeep on it, back is sore from leaning over the fenders.

"I had a limiter put in on the ammeter side"

A limiter? Voltage resistor?
Why is that?