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Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly #1633098
06/13/14 11:38 AM
06/13/14 11:38 AM
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Allen, TX
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rutro Offline OP
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OK so this might be a very basic question,but I have not done work on my 8.75 in 15 years. I can't find a direct answer to my question here or on the internet.
I did the green bearing "thing" years ago, not going to change that.
I pulled my 4.10/detroit locker 3rd member setup and put back in 3.55/sure-grip 3rd member. When I took out the axles I had to use a "persuader" to get them to come out, like something was holding them in a little bit. Now when I'm trying to put the axles back in I get a springy feel when I try to push them in the very last bit. It is like the last 3/16-1/4" has some resistance, but if I tighten down the 5 nuts it will pull the axle in. If I loosen the 5 nuts it will move back out the original distance.
HELP! I'm I missing something. I don't want to mess anything up.
Thanks, Mark

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633099
06/13/14 11:54 AM
06/13/14 11:54 AM
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JohnRR Offline
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What is the sure grip unit ?

Cone type , the axles need to be shorter than stock or you have to remove the thrust block ... easier to trim the axles.

Clutch type, the buttons need to be removed.

If the axles come back out when loosening the retaining plate you are side loading them , but 3/16 to 1/4 " I'd question if they are any good ???

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633100
06/13/14 12:33 PM
06/13/14 12:33 PM
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Polson, MT
DoctorDiff Offline
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If the axles, brakes and housing are stock, you can leave the thrust block/thrust buttons intact when running SNAP-RING style Green bearings.

If you are running first generation Green bearings with the crimped on 5-hole retainer, you must remove the thrust block.

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: DoctorDiff] #1633101
06/13/14 01:18 PM
06/13/14 01:18 PM
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Allen, TX
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rutro Offline OP
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Quote:

If the axles, brakes and housing are stock, you can leave the thrust block/thrust buttons intact when running SNAP-RING style Green bearings.

If you are running first generation Green bearings with the crimped on 5-hole retainer, you must remove the thrust block.




I have stock everything.
I will have to check when I get home, but I changed to the Green bearings back in the early 90's. Would that be the crimped version?
I must not have paid attention when I installed the shafts back then because I didn't remove anything. Did I damage the unit?
How do I remove the thrust block? Can it be done with out pulling the 3rd member back out?

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633102
06/13/14 02:44 PM
06/13/14 02:44 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

If the axles, brakes and housing are stock, you can leave the thrust block/thrust buttons intact when running SNAP-RING style Green bearings.

If you are running first generation Green bearings with the crimped on 5-hole retainer, you must remove the thrust block.




I have stock everything.
I will have to check when I get home, but I changed to the Green bearings back in the early 90's. Would that be the crimped version?
I must not have paid attention when I installed the shafts back then because I didn't remove anything. Did I damage the unit?
How do I remove the thrust block? Can it be done with out pulling the 3rd member back out?




Early 90's , my guess is they are the crimp collar, what sure grip is it , clutch or cone ? If it's a cone then you have to completely disassemble the chuck to get it out without going medieval on it .

And if the detroit had the same inner dimension and they are a crimp style those bearings are probably junk ... not that they aren't junk to begin with ...

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: JohnRR] #1633103
06/13/14 04:38 PM
06/13/14 04:38 PM
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Allen, TX
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rutro Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

If the axles, brakes and housing are stock, you can leave the thrust block/thrust buttons intact when running SNAP-RING style Green bearings.

If you are running first generation Green bearings with the crimped on 5-hole retainer, you must remove the thrust block.




I have stock everything.
I will have to check when I get home, but I changed to the Green bearings back in the early 90's. Would that be the crimped version?
I must not have paid attention when I installed the shafts back then because I didn't remove anything. Did I damage the unit?
How do I remove the thrust block? Can it be done with out pulling the 3rd member back out?




Early 90's , my guess is they are the crimp collar, what sure grip is it , clutch or cone ? If it's a cone then you have to completely disassemble the chuck to get it out without going medieval on it .

And if the detroit had the same inner dimension and they are a crimp style those bearings are probably junk ... not that they aren't junk to begin with ...




Ok...will not know for sure till I get off work.
But...if memory serves me...it is a cone style. Things are not looking good. Not a fan of pulling the 3rd member out since I sealed it up. Would the easiest solution be to pull of the Crimp style Green bearings and replace with the original style tampered bearings? Over the years what has been the issue with the Green bearings? Never really paid attention to the dialogue.

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633104
06/13/14 06:26 PM
06/13/14 06:26 PM
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Oh, I wish you hadn't asked that question!


The short answer is that tapered roller bearings are designed to take more thrust than ball bearings. Green bearings are ball bearings. So, theoretically, the tapered roller bearings will last longer or not fail as rapidly as the Green bearings.
The issue is complicated by the fact that most new cars use ball bearings for their wheel bearings.

Also, I haven't done the calculations on factor of safety, but I'm guessing the ball bearings reduce the bearing's strength factor of safety from, say, 2.75 to 1.5. Yes that's a reduction, but it still provides a bearing with 1.5 times as much strength as needed. I've had this discussion with fellow mechanical engineers for years, about the value of larger factors of safety. None of us can decide one way or the other, there's a lot of "it depends" built into the answer.

So the issue has become very much like a religious discussion. Both pro- and con- Green bearing partisans maintain that theirs is the only true religion. And similar to religious controversies, people don't change sides very often.

R.

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633105
06/13/14 06:30 PM
06/13/14 06:30 PM
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Your choice , either go back to original taper bearings or get the snap ring greenies from Dr. Diff since it seems you prefer that style .

I'll not get into a pee pee contest ... use 'em if that is what you want.

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: JohnRR] #1633106
06/13/14 07:44 PM
06/13/14 07:44 PM
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Allen, TX
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rutro Offline OP
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Quote:

Your choice , either go back to original taper bearings or get the snap ring greenies from Dr. Diff since it seems you prefer that style .

I'll not get into a pee pee contest ... use 'em if that is what you want.




If I remember it was the new thing to do in the early 90's.
I'm not stuck on one or the other, just wanted to figure out why my shafts are not seating properly. In my younger years I was not paying attention to it.
Can I go back to the tapered style with no problems? I guess I've been reading more stuff on the net, not sure I understand where the threaded locking ring comes into play that I see on Diff. Doctors site.

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: rutro] #1633107
06/14/14 12:49 AM
06/14/14 12:49 AM
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JohnRR Offline
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It was the new thing to do because the original tapered setup was not available anymore thru normal channels .

Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: JohnRR] #1633108
06/14/14 04:03 PM
06/14/14 04:03 PM
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Rio Linda, CA
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It was and is the thing to do because of laziness.


The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: John_Kunkel] #1633109
06/14/14 05:30 PM
06/14/14 05:30 PM
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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To go tapered you will need the threaded adjuster and slao the small lock for it.IIRC the lock is hard to find unless they started repopping them.Call Dr Diff he can answer all your questions.Oh green bearings will last for years in most of the old cars.Its not they see 30 or 40 K a year.I bet most dont see over a few thousand a year.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Help with 8.75 rear axle shaft assembly [Re: John_Kunkel] #1633110
06/15/14 10:34 AM
06/15/14 10:34 AM
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Quote:


It was and is the thing to do because of laziness.




I didn't want to go there







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