This is what I would consider minimum MUST DO's.
Reseal the engine (all gaskets) if the rear main seal is not showing HEAVY signs of leaks, I would leave it alone. The cliche " If it ain't broke, don't fix it" or " Don't open a can of worms" belongs here.
Inspect/replace timing chain.
Replace the freeze plugs.
If you are wanting more performance then I would consider an intake manifold and NEW carburetor but this would be a very easy up-grade Later .
I had to change my carb and intake because of a troublesome carb issue and it wasn't worth fixing the stock 2 bbl.
Keep the 2bbl if you can and save your money for the headers and exhaust system, it won't be cheap.
All filters and fluids, engine, fuel ,transmission and air.
Tune-up, cap rotor, wires, points, condenser and spark plugs.
Mini starters are nice but not always necessary. Stock alternators are sufficient unless you start adding a bunch of electrical high load items.( the stock wiring harness can't handle high amp output alternators anyway)
Engine and transmission mounts too.
If you add up this list you will see that this is going to cost a few bucks right from the start.
I may have missed something but this should give you a better idea of cost involved.


Copper

If you change the carb and intake you will need to change cam.Yeah it will run but not very well.Summits cam sets and pusrods should be less than 170 bucks.You have the cover off for the chain so pulling the cam is nothing.Plus the intake will be off so you can watch the lifters to see if they turn easy.Min starters are the greatest thing since sliced bread for Mopars.Mines been on close to 20 years.Cranks the 440 like a /6.Headers are pricet for a C body unless you get lucky and find a used set.Rocky

Be careful what you change on that engine, because how would you hold the seller accountable if something was wrong with the engine/trans/radiator? I'd make that deal with him about half now and half later IF everything was in good working order once installed and running. THEN you can start modifying it.

First of all, the 318 Poly, while it may be called "wideblock" by the uninformed, has the same external dimensions as an LA motor. The Poly was known as the "A" motor, when they lightened it they called it the "LA" motor, for Light A. Bore spacing, deck height, bellhousing pattern except for the lowest bolt on the driver's side, connecting rods, crank bearings, timing set are the same. So for all practical purposes, you could put in a 360 with minimum of fuss.

Second, if my choice was between a "runs good" 383 with auto tranny for $1000, and keep on looking, I'd keep on looking. But I am tight with money. For $650 it'd be a decent deal.

People quoting you what the engine's worth by what the parts or machine work would cost are not remembering how bad an engine could be. I've taken apart a few doozies, where nearly everything inside the block was trash.

Third, a 383 isn't a really big engine, as far as bigblocks go. Heck, it's not even a big engine as far as smallblocks go! My cousin's 68 383 4-speed Road Runner would do 96 in the quarter mile. That's with 1974 street tires, 3.55 rear, no burnout, mph by the speedometer. I grew up close to a little used highway and there was a quarter mile marked on the road. So we did a lot of testing. But I remember being slightly disappointed, though it was the quickest car I'd been in at that time. Add a thousand pounds of weight and it becomes decent performance for a family car.

Fourth, the LA motor is supposed to be arouned 55lb lighter than an A. Also, many members have weighed B and RB blocks and they weigh the same, with quite a wide variation for the group.

In conclusion, it's your choice. Go for the best deal you can, and then play the "throw in" game. You make an agreement on price, then you ask him if he'd throw in something to the deal. It works. Another thing, if he's got the engine in a garage, just sitting there, at some point he's going to want to get it out of the way, unless he's my twin brother.

The advice above to get the car running before you dig into the engine is very smart. Too many times I have got hung up on the engine part while the rest of the car needed the most work.

Good Luck,
R.

There is a 440 with trans in a truck for sale on C list.500 bucks and he is leaving it in the truck so you can hear it.Its in the for sale/Ebay whats its worth section here and its in Missouri.Thats a deal if it runs decent.Rocky

Yeah I know, I posted it there! lol. That's quite a haul down there from my place. Thanks for keeping an eye out tho.

Good point. I know the guy personally, and believe his word will be good, but stuff happens.

Amen to Copper's remarks: "A big block engine (383 and 400) and transmission Not needing an overhaul and a working cooling system included is easily 1200 all day long. Air cleaner to pan and fan to tail shaft for 1000 is a very fair deal. Once you start removing parts (fan and clutch, pulleys, brackets, carb, alt, water pump, manifolds etc) then I would agree that the value for a swap starts to drop. They don't make them anymore and hoarders (like myself) are hard at work scooping them up so I recommend don't delay too long in your choosing." Unless you have easy access to a junk yard or own one, add up the items to "dress" a bare engine from "Greed-bay" or C-list, plus shipping, your time and gas and you'd easily have over half that engine cost invested. See if you can scoop the drive shaft also, the output shaft splines maybe different on your original trans. Even if you need to have it shortened you'll at least have the slip yoke to work with.

But if the 440 is in good shape its 500 cheaoer.Buys a lot of gas.That and thats what he is asking.Might be cheaper.Plus it has the trans.Rocky

Did I miss something? ?440?
The only choices I read was another poly or a 413 or a 400 missing pulleys and stuff and the complete 383 727 combo out of a '67 NewPort with extra necessary parts. How could I have missed the 440 option?

CD he posted a Craigs ad about one in the WIW section.500 bucks with trans and guy will run it in the truck.Rocky

out of a truck which we have established will lead to needing oilpan & pickup, waterpump housing, transmission tailshaft and several other items plus is a day travel.

Rocks, What is your problem with a 383?

It is a great engine which is proven throughout the years, if he wants an upgrade down the road he can build a 440 or a stroked 400 but for now this is a straightforward swap for a guy who is obviously new at the classic mopar scene.

Well, per phone deal, ive got the set up bought for 600. Going to try and get it picked up this weekend. That will allow an intake and 4 bbl once shes running

I dont have a problem with the 383s Ive owned at least 20 of them.Just a grand is high.A running 440 even with buying a used pan for 500 with trans is better if its a good setup.WPs are the same truck or car.Im glad he got the 83 for 600.But as I said if he puts a 4 bbl on it he better change the cam.With desert gears in a C body it will be a slouch.One good thing he will be able to wind 1st out to probally 75 mph.Same with people telling him not to change cams and lifters.Yeah pull the pan VC gaskets WP and change the timing set.Your already there to change the cam.Just unbolt the rovkers pull the drive gear and out come the cam.Then you dont have to worry as much about a lifter going.Total extra time maybe 2 hours.This from the same people when a guy says he wants to do somethign simple to a motor and they say get it bored balanced decked etc.Get the idea.At 600 he has enough for cam p rods carb and intake if he shops wisely.Then he will have a strong runner.Rocky

just a tidbit to thimk about. my brother had a 69 newport 383 that was a 2bbl motor. just because he was cheap[read- I had the parts and he could swipe 'em] we installed a 74-78 spreadbore [factory]intake with plugged floor jets and blocked off egr, and a 850 [1 1/2" primary tv] thermoquad. still using the stock 2bbl cam, but advanced 4* with a keyed timing set. that thing ran real good stock, but just that intake/carb setup really woke that thing up ! I messed with the distributor curve a lot until it was as good as I could get it. I don't remember what the initial ended up being, but it was a lot. it was a tire burning monster[well, pegleg peal ], and even returned surpising gas milage to boot !if I remember correctly, it was way up in the teens just beating around town. that intake setup might be something to consider if funds are lacking as most guys just toss 'em for the intake/carb choice of the week. just something to think about......

Years ag we did a lot of 2 to 4 bbl swaps with nothing else.I ran my 65 with the 361 swapped 4bbl.Eddy intakes were pretty cheap at 29 bucks back then.When I changed cams I couldnt believe how really good it ran.Oh I put at least 35000 miles on the 2 bbl cam before I swapped in a decent cam.Cams were pricey back then as were headers.Rocky

Rocky, Let me see if I can convey to you why I suggested for a straight swap without venturing into performance mods for BayouLee.

It is Clear that you have a lot of experience with these engines, it is also pretty evident that Bayoulee does not.

The worst thing that could happen to him is to swap in ANY unknown engine and have installed aftermarket parts to it, mostly a cam to have start-up, run-in, not go smoothly or have a lobe get wiped because of any number of reasons. That trouble would set anyone back and really create a hardship that is unnecessary.

The purpose of installing an engine (unknown but told to be good) is to establish a base line. compression, leak down, blow-by, etc. an overall running condition. If you install a mild cam and one cylinder is dead or almost dead, or the heads are in need of a rebuild, then the cam has not done any good other than to say "but it has a new cam".

If Bayoulee had you in his pocket to troubleshoot diagnose and help with all the stuff that may arise then I would stay out of it.

But since he is new at this I am suggesting "Baby" steps so it doesn't overwhelm him or anyone else reading this thread.

This also goes for not swapping in a MH or truck engine, the transmission tailshaft, oilpan and pick up, (some) waterpumps, pulley setups.

As an experienced Hot Rodder I don't want to suggest anything that creates roadblocks to a less knowledgeable enthusiast.

Nut as I said the enginge will be mostly apart anyway to re gasket.That and a timing chain which I wouldnt trust anyones word on.So its pretty much a simple job to install a new cam and lifters.Plenty of people here to help if he gets into trouble.I mean its just line up the dots as he isnt buildin a race car just a decent cruiser.That and when was the last 383 made.40 years ago.Would you run a unknown cam thats 40 years old?i wouldnt.Plus he wants to add an intake carb.So he is changing stuff already.I was 14 when I changed my first cam and had no idea what I was doing.Just opened a Chiltons and read.I mean he needs a puller to change the T set anyway and its right in the open.Plus he dosent sound like he knows nothing.He sounds like he has some mechanical ability and know how.Rocky

You both have valid points.
If he has the extra money to buy a manifold, carb, mild performance cam, lifters, timing chain and push rods AFTER buying all the other MUSTS BUY'S and he had someone to help, I say "go for it" and I'll add a good luck too.
I hope the foundation (383 and 727) are as stated "not needing an overhaul. I would think that the run-in on a MODERN mild cam and lifter set may not be too critical.
He will enjoy that setup much more than stock as long as his pocket can support it.


Copper