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Engine runs on #1613994
04/29/14 11:41 PM
04/29/14 11:41 PM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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528 Hemi with street compression, and cam. I have noticed that after it gets warm it wants to run on a bit after I turn the switch off. The temp is around 170-180, and the timing is at 10 btdc at idle. Now it has just a mechanical advance with out a vacuum advance, and has been recurved.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1613995
04/29/14 11:50 PM
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RSNOMO Offline
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Played with the timing any???

Fuel???

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RSNOMO] #1613996
04/29/14 11:54 PM
04/29/14 11:54 PM
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cjskotni Offline
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Few things come to mind that can cause this:

- try more timing, maybe 14-16* initial
- running excessively lean causing hot cylinders - richen up mixture
- idle speed too high

Could be either of these things or some combination thereof.

Good luck!

Re: Engine runs on [Re: cjskotni] #1613997
04/30/14 12:17 AM
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

- idle speed too high




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Re: Engine runs on [Re: RSNOMO] #1613998
04/30/14 12:54 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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Ok, it has ethanol free 90+ gas in it. It idles around 1100, it seems to like that speed. The mixture seem rich as it is, plugs are a little sooty. I haven't really had time to play with it, I drove it for the first time since 1978 yesterday, and just around the block. A couple more things, it has Edlebrock 650 avs's on it

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1613999
04/30/14 01:28 AM
04/30/14 01:28 AM
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

It idles around 1100, it seems to like that speed.


I would suggest adding one of those air conditioning solenoids (an electrical throttle stop) that kick up the throttle position when energized. Use it to get that idle speed when on/idling then when you shut the key off it goes dead/retracts so the throttle position is too low to run & it dies & in the meantime I'd shut it off in gear to kill it


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Re: Engine runs on [Re: RapidRobert] #1614000
04/30/14 01:42 AM
04/30/14 01:42 AM
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RobX4406 Offline
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10* initial timing... nope no potential issue there. I run stock 318's with more initial timing!

Fix the initial timing to what the engine wants, re-tune the carbs and go from there. It will take some changes to the distributor internals.

Simple, grab distributor, twist it a bit CW, if it picks up RPM, it wants the timing.

How big of a cam is in this thing?

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RapidRobert] #1614001
04/30/14 01:44 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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Yes I think it needs a solenoid, the harness has the wire for it, but it would cost $500 to buy the real deal, and the brackets. Tell me more about the AC solenoid.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614002
04/30/14 01:47 AM
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I missed that, what Rob said it definitely needs more than 10


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Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614003
04/30/14 01:50 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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I'll try more, at what point would one start to kick back? I'll do this after I get it to the alignment shop. Everything is new.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614004
04/30/14 01:56 AM
04/30/14 01:56 AM
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RobX4406 Offline
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Get it hot, up to operating temp and start feeding it timing, reset idle speed, shut it off and restart it. Find the point it kicks back on the starter when warm. That's your top limit.

If it has any type of camshaft, I'd guess it may want close to 20* or more. Watch out for your total number, that's where the distributor surgery comes into play.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614005
04/30/14 01:59 AM
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RapidRobert Offline
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I'd start with the tried & true "vac gauge" method: keep advancing the timing till you reach max vac all the while reducing the idle speed back to the lowest point it will idle in gear at then reduce the timing till the vac drops (1) in hg & that is the ideal initial timing if it does not kick back when starting. If so you can either add an on/off ign switch & get it cranking with the regular ign switch then switch on the auxillary ign sw so it gets power & will fire or reduce the initial 1 degree & retry and another 1 degree if needed


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614006
04/30/14 02:04 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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I told them I wanted a street cam, with without searching for a sweet spot, and a flat torque curve. It was ground by Crower to his specks.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614007
04/30/14 02:34 AM
04/30/14 02:34 AM
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Kern Dog Offline
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" I drove it for the first time since 1978 yesterday, and just around the block."


Really? This car really has been sitting since 1978? 36 years?

Re: Engine runs on [Re: Kern Dog] #1614008
04/30/14 09:04 AM
04/30/14 09:04 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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Yes, that was the last time I drove it. I'm just finishing up the restoration.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614009
04/30/14 12:50 PM
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GTX MATT Offline
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Carbs are off the idle circuit, more timing, less idle RPM/curb idle adjustment


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: Engine runs on [Re: GTX MATT] #1614010
04/30/14 08:31 PM
04/30/14 08:31 PM
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383man Offline
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If it still gives you problems after the tune is right then I would consider an idle solenoid so it can let the throttle close more at key off. Also if its an auto shut the eng off in gear or if its a stick just let the clutch out when you shut the eng off. Just let the clutch out enough to grab a bit and stall the eng. They are not the real world fixes but many hotrods with large cams idle higher and the popping of the clucth or shut it off in gear helps. Ron

Last edited by 383man; 04/30/14 08:32 PM.
Re: Engine runs on [Re: 383man] #1614011
04/30/14 08:40 PM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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Where can I find one of those solenoids?

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614012
04/30/14 09:11 PM
04/30/14 09:11 PM
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Khemi, Stygia
Mebsuta Offline
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Mine (383 HP) used to run on with lesser grades of gasoline (less than 91 octane). Try the highest grade of gasoline you can get.

Also, the E10 everywhere now helps me. I can actually run 87 or 89 without pinging or running on.


68 Roadrunner. 383 4-spd. Beat up.
Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614013
04/30/14 11:44 PM
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Where can I find one of those solenoids?


I ain't sure what year(s) they came on. An ad in the wanted section(s) here would likely produce a good used one. EDIT Or eBay might be faster

Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/30/14 11:46 PM.

live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Engine runs on [Re: RapidRobert] #1614014
05/01/14 12:20 AM
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71birdJ68 Offline OP
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I was thinking other than factory that I could adapt. Just the brackets are over a $100, no telling what a solenoids cost.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 71birdJ68] #1614015
05/01/14 12:39 AM
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RobX4406 Offline
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Quote:

I was thinking other than factory that I could adapt. Just the brackets are over a $100, no telling what a solenoids cost.




I'd fix the issue, not the symptom.

Fixing the likely issue is a lot less than that solenoid and bracket!

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614016
05/02/14 02:42 AM
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383man Offline
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I believe all the 69 A12 440 six pack cars had the idle speed solenoid on them. You might be able to make that work. Ron

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 383man] #1614017
05/03/14 11:44 AM
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The throttle blades are open too far. Increase the initial timing and close the throttle blades. No reason to have 1100 rpm idle speed.


NMCA NSS 67 Coronet
Re: Engine runs on [Re: Barry70GTX] #1614018
05/03/14 01:00 PM
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Re: Engine runs on [Re: Barry70GTX] #1614019
05/03/14 03:09 PM
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RobX4406 Offline
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Quote:

The throttle blades are open too far. Increase the initial timing and close the throttle blades. No reason to have 1100 rpm idle speed.




And the sellout crowd roars it's approval!

What's it cost to see if more initial timing cures the issue. ZERO.

More initial will also clean up those sooty gas fouled plugs. BONUS! An idle solenoid WILL NOT help here.

I'll bet this car cranks excessively when trying to start and needs to floor the pedal or give it some pedal to fire. That's another symptom of not enough initial timing. The total timing crowd falls victim to this all the time.

People complain all the time about how expensive these cars are... hmmm

If you don't have emissions testing to be concerned about, an idle speed solenoid is a waste of money. Emissions is the reason they were used on these cars in the 60-70's.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614020
05/03/14 04:07 PM
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RSNOMO Offline
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Here it is...

Right out of the Service Manual:


'The high performance engines (340, 440, 440 3-2V and 426 Hemi) employ idle speeds between 800 and 1000 rpm to obtain acceptable lower emissions during idle and deceleration. In order to prevent "after running", with such high idle speeds, these engines have an electrical solenoid throttle stop which holds the throttle at the correct idle position when energized but de-energizes when the ignition is turned off, allowing the throttle blades to close more completely.'


My little, old '70 340 Duster had it in place...

900 in neutral;it was needed...

Even back when 10.5 compression burned 97 octane...

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RSNOMO] #1614021
05/03/14 04:24 PM
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Quote:

Here it is...

Right out of the Service Manual:


'The high performance engines (340, 440, 440 3-2V and 426 Hemi) employ idle speeds between 800 and 1000 rpm to obtain acceptable lower emissions during idle and deceleration. In order to prevent "after running", with such high idle speeds, these engines have an electrical solenoid throttle stop which holds the throttle at the correct idle position when energized but de-energizes when the ignition is turned off, allowing the throttle blades to close more completely.'


My little, old '70 340 Duster had it in place...

900 in neutral;it was needed...

Even back when 10.5 compression burned 97 octane...




Nice reference from the service manual.

Because the correct initial timing was compromised to obtain those acceptable emission readings, they had to crutch the system using a solenoid. More initial timing usually drives HC levels up.

People used to hunt only with clubs and sticks, but, we've evolved.

I made a real good living tuning cars in the 80's and on because people wanted to use the factory ignition settings or fall victim to total timing thinking. My 340 with a tight lashed 284/528 mechanical idles nicely at 750-800 rpm, not stinking out the neighborhood with raw fuel, clean plugs and 22* initial timing. It runs like junk with 10* initial and smells like a leaking fuel truck at idle when timed there.

The OP's issue is based in the inadequate initial timing setting.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614022
05/03/14 04:40 PM
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You take issue with EVERYTHING, regardless of its source...

Unless it has your stamp of approval...

Go argue with the engineers who designed it...


Or better yet, go to a Pure Stock event...

And see how poorly OEM performs...


Re: Engine runs on [Re: RSNOMO] #1614023
05/03/14 05:05 PM
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RobX4406 Offline
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Quote:

You take issue with EVERYTHING, regardless of its source...

Unless it has your stamp of approval...

Go argue with the engineers who designed it...


Or better yet, go to a Pure Stock event...

And see how poorly OEM performs...






While you are

Did you miss this.

Quote:

Nice reference from the service manual.




you need some of this? Little cranky?


Those engineers had to work inside a defined box. I bet if you asked them, they'd tell you they'd have rather increase initial timing, however, the emissions regulations/standards wouldn't allow it. Pretty simple.

How should the OP fix this issue?

Pure stock? Nobody in those pits has taken the time to optimize the timing events on the engines.

Pick your parts, pay your money and tune it up however you like.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: RobX4406] #1614024
05/04/14 02:28 AM
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383man Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

The throttle blades are open too far. Increase the initial timing and close the throttle blades. No reason to have 1100 rpm idle speed.




And the sellout crowd roars it's approval!

What's it cost to see if more initial timing cures the issue. ZERO.

More initial will also clean up those sooty gas fouled plugs. BONUS! An idle solenoid WILL NOT help here.

I'll bet this car cranks excessively when trying to start and needs to floor the pedal or give it some pedal to fire. That's another symptom of not enough initial timing. The total timing crowd falls victim to this all the time.

People complain all the time about how expensive these cars are... hmmm

If you don't have emissions testing to be concerned about, an idle speed solenoid is a waste of money. Emissions is the reason they were used on these cars in the 60-70's.




The idle solenoid can never hurt and if an eng would still run on sometimes when its set to the specs you want then the idle solenoid would be a good idea. I agree with what your saying about setting it so it should not run on but the idle solenoid will never hurt and can only help if the ownwer does not mind spending the money which should not be much as being a tech all my life I had some laying around from jobs so he may be able to fine one from a tech real cheap. Ron

Re: Engine runs on [Re: 383man] #1614025
05/04/14 06:18 AM
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Kern Dog Offline
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I switched to colder spark plugs and my issue of "Run-on" went away.

Re: Engine runs on [Re: Kern Dog] #1614026
05/04/14 11:19 AM
05/04/14 11:19 AM
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I really don't like to jump into pi$$ing contests, but anybody that thinks the "pure stock" class boys don't optimize the ignition events on their engines hasn't been around drag racing very long. why do you think "pure stock" cars are a ton faster than yours is ? all it takes to prove that is to line up yours against a "pure stock" champ car one time.......

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