528 Hemi with street compression, and cam. I have noticed that after it gets warm it wants to run on a bit after I turn the switch off. The temp is around 170-180, and the timing is at 10 btdc at idle. Now it has just a mechanical advance with out a vacuum advance, and has been recurved.

Played with the timing any???

Fuel???

Few things come to mind that can cause this:

- try more timing, maybe 14-16* initial
- running excessively lean causing hot cylinders - richen up mixture
- idle speed too high

Could be either of these things or some combination thereof.

Good luck!

Ok, it has ethanol free 90+ gas in it. It idles around 1100, it seems to like that speed. The mixture seem rich as it is, plugs are a little sooty. I haven't really had time to play with it, I drove it for the first time since 1978 yesterday, and just around the block. A couple more things, it has Edlebrock 650 avs's on it

10* initial timing... nope no potential issue there. I run stock 318's with more initial timing!

Fix the initial timing to what the engine wants, re-tune the carbs and go from there. It will take some changes to the distributor internals.

Simple, grab distributor, twist it a bit CW, if it picks up RPM, it wants the timing.

How big of a cam is in this thing?

Yes I think it needs a solenoid, the harness has the wire for it, but it would cost $500 to buy the real deal, and the brackets. Tell me more about the AC solenoid.

I missed that, what Rob said it definitely needs more than 10

I'll try more, at what point would one start to kick back? I'll do this after I get it to the alignment shop. Everything is new.

Get it hot, up to operating temp and start feeding it timing, reset idle speed, shut it off and restart it. Find the point it kicks back on the starter when warm. That's your top limit.

If it has any type of camshaft, I'd guess it may want close to 20* or more. Watch out for your total number, that's where the distributor surgery comes into play.

I'd start with the tried & true "vac gauge" method: keep advancing the timing till you reach max vac all the while reducing the idle speed back to the lowest point it will idle in gear at then reduce the timing till the vac drops (1) in hg & that is the ideal initial timing if it does not kick back when starting. If so you can either add an on/off ign switch & get it cranking with the regular ign switch then switch on the auxillary ign sw so it gets power & will fire or reduce the initial 1 degree & retry and another 1 degree if needed

I told them I wanted a street cam, with without searching for a sweet spot, and a flat torque curve. It was ground by Crower to his specks.

" I drove it for the first time since 1978 yesterday, and just around the block."


Really? This car really has been sitting since 1978? 36 years?

Yes, that was the last time I drove it. I'm just finishing up the restoration.

Carbs are off the idle circuit, more timing, less idle RPM/curb idle adjustment

If it still gives you problems after the tune is right then I would consider an idle solenoid so it can let the throttle close more at key off. Also if its an auto shut the eng off in gear or if its a stick just let the clutch out when you shut the eng off. Just let the clutch out enough to grab a bit and stall the eng. They are not the real world fixes but many hotrods with large cams idle higher and the popping of the clucth or shut it off in gear helps. Ron

Where can I find one of those solenoids?

Mine (383 HP) used to run on with lesser grades of gasoline (less than 91 octane). Try the highest grade of gasoline you can get.

Also, the E10 everywhere now helps me. I can actually run 87 or 89 without pinging or running on.