Quote:

---

Last summer I finally got my car back to the track to make some passes. I had done a ton of stuff to it over the winter and one of the upgrades I made was installing an alternator for the first time. When I went through tech the inspector turned off the main power switch and the car kept running. I have since been told that I need to put a diode in the excite wire to solve this. I am getting ready to do this but I have no idea what size of diode I will require. The alternator is a 55 AMP Denso unit. Any input will be appreciated.

---

Quote:

---

Just put the disconnect on the ground cable

---

Quote:

---

Another option is to run the big battery charging wire from the alternator to the battery side of the switch so the alternator will charge the battery when the motor is running but it will not supply voltage to the electrical system when the cut off switch is turned off My car is that way, I used a #10 wire from the alternator ran directly to the battery + post connection

---

Quote:

---

Just put the disconnect on the ground cable

---

The alternator will continue to supply voltage to the motor through the various engine to body grounds so shutting the switch off will not kill the supply of electrons to the ignition, trust me on that All electron flow from batterys is from the negative post through that cable to the to the motor and returns to the positive post of the battery, not from the positive to the negative like most people think That makes the negative cable not a good idea to hook up to the cut off switch

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Just put the disconnect on the ground cable

---

The alternator will continue to supply voltage to the motor through the various engine to body grounds so shutting the switch off will not kill the supply of electrons to the ignition, trust me on that All electron flow from batterys is from the negative post through that cable to the to the motor and returns to the positive post of the battery, not from the positive to the negative like most people think That makes the negative cable not a good idea to hook up to the cut off switch

---

Wouldnt matter anyways... after you start the car you
can take the battery out and it'll run fine.. it has
to open the alt output circuit

Quote:

---

Most I know do what Cab says and run the alt output wire to the battery side of the cutout switch. Another option is like I did years ago on my bracket car and that was I put a toggle switch on one of the field wires and ran it inside the car so I could kill the charging system when I made a pass and you can also just kill the charging circuit when going thru tech with that toggle switch in the car so it dies when the kill (cutout) switch is turned off. It is alot less wire to run if you just tap into a field wire and run it in the car within the drivers reach on a toggle switch. I burned out a rotor on my bracket cars alt so thats one reason I would kill the charging system when making a pass. Ron

---

Dont let the tech guy see you with a separate switch
set up like that... its a no no .. if you forgot and
had it on during a pass it wont kill the ignition
if needed and your knocked out
EDIT
I use to have a switch on the panel just to kill the
alt during a pass but I seen ZERO difference in et
or mph but that was with the output still on the
battery side of the switch... so when I rewired the
car I left that switch out of it

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Most I know do what Cab says and run the alt output wire to the battery side of the cutout switch. Another option is like I did years ago on my bracket car and that was I put a toggle switch on one of the field wires and ran it inside the car so I could kill the charging system when I made a pass and you can also just kill the charging circuit when going thru tech with that toggle switch in the car so it dies when the kill (cutout) switch is turned off. It is alot less wire to run if you just tap into a field wire and run it in the car within the drivers reach on a toggle switch. I burned out a rotor on my bracket cars alt so thats one reason I would kill the charging system when making a pass. Ron

---

Dont let the tech guy see you with a separate switch
set up like that... its a no no .. if you forgot and
had it on during a pass it wont kill the ignition
if needed and your knocked out

---

Quote:

---

Does anyone have a fuse on their alt wire to the battery?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Does anyone have a fuse on their alt wire to the battery?

---

I do.

---

Lets go over this.... What size fuse, and where exactly is it?

Quote:

---

Does anyone have a fuse on their alt wire to the battery?

---

Yes.. I have a 100 amp on it

Quote:

---

How many amp alt?

---

Its a 85A Denso

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Where do uall purchase these fuses from?

---

I get them from a local electrical ware house near me..
its a larger fuse like the mini flat bladed ones in
the cars about 8 years ago... its just bigger with
its own holder

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Where do uall purchase these fuses from?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Where do uall purchase these fuses from?

---

Good car audio shops have them.

---

Thax.

Quote:

---

I don't like running the alternator wire to the battery because that wire will be hot all the time. I set mine up with a relay. I use a continuous duty relay, similar to a Ford starter relay. See attachment.

---

X2 ran mine same way , they run the constant duty on golf carts a lot got mine of eBay cheap and easy. Dvw recommend this idea and works well.

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Sorry to be an electrical idiot.... but that's what I am, and I want to be certain of what I think I'm seeing: We're talking about a 300 amp fuse on the pos. cable, and a 150 amp fuse on the neg, correct? Then, following Mike & Jim's outlines, a 100 amp fuse on the alternator wire, along with running that wire through the continuous duty relay....

Am I straight on this?

Quote:

---

On a race car the way that s605 is wired is fine if you turn the master off.

Street car, if you leave the master on, the S605 will be a constant draw and drain the battery. It needs to be switched with something from a keyed source in the on position.

There's a minimum standard, then there are improvements.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

On a race car the way that s605 is wired is fine if you turn the master off.

Street car, if you leave the master on, the S605 will be a constant draw and drain the battery. It needs to be switched with something from a keyed source in the on position.

There's a minimum standard, then there are improvements.

---

Uhggg...... Why must there always be problems?! Are there relays available that would work like this, but not need to be switched? I generally break the master cutoff whenever I leave the car. But if I were to add this, I would want to do it correctly and not expose myself to potential dead battery issues. Wiring it all the way from the key switch seems like a hassle and lots of added wiring, which I don't want.

PS: sorry to hi-jack, but this is good info. and I think its relevent to the OP.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

On a race car the way that s605 is wired is fine if you turn the master off.

Street car, if you leave the master on, the S605 will be a constant draw and drain the battery. It needs to be switched with something from a keyed source in the on position.

There's a minimum standard, then there are improvements.

---

Uhggg...... Why must there always be problems?! Are there relays available that would work like this, but not need to be switched? I generally break the master cutoff whenever I leave the car. But if I were to add this, I would want to do it correctly and not expose myself to potential dead battery issues. Wiring it all the way from the key switch seems like a hassle and lots of added wiring, which I don't want.

PS: sorry to hi-jack, but this is good info. and I think its relevent to the OP.

---

Find a wire that is hot when key is in run position and wire it to trigger the CD relay, pretty simple.

What's a 16ga wire weigh... not much and have it mirror route of the taillight wiring.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

I have 150 and 300 amp

---

Sorry to be an electrical idiot.... but that's what I am, and I want to be certain of what I think I'm seeing: We're talking about a 300 amp fuse on the pos. cable, and a 150 amp fuse on the neg, correct? Then, following Mike & Jim's outlines, a 100 amp fuse on the alternator wire, along with running that wire through the continuous duty relay....

Am I straight on this?

---

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---

If I were to change over I would go with this switch..
I always like the KISS way of doing things

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---

Decent solution. It is more money than a CD and 180 amp master switch

---

But with way less stuff that can fail... I'll take
the KISS way every time

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---

Decent solution. It is more money than a CD and 180 amp master switch

---

But with way less stuff that can fail... I'll take
the KISS way every time

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---

Decent solution. It is more money than a CD and 180 amp master switch

---

But with way less stuff that can fail... I'll take
the KISS way every time

---

And if one side of that component fails...

It's two components built into one switch. It's still controlling two circuits. You can still wire around one side in an emergency.

Pick your parts, pay your money.

---

I understand that its basically 2 switches but from
the guys that I know running it they havent had any
failures in at least 6 years( and still going)..
I had a failure in a constant duty solenoid in a
matter of a few weeks on my Rampage.. I replaced it
but bought a spare to carry with me

Quote:

---

Another option that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread is the use of a double pole / 4 terminal cutoff switch like a Longacre 45780 or 45782 (for higher output alternators). It solves the problems of a constantly "hot" alternator wire / solenoid drain.

http://www.longacreracing.com/products.a...amp;prodid=7581

---