Hi Everyone- Fairly new here. I did a search and didnt find my answer.

My car is a 1966 Fury 4 dr with a 318 and automatic. The carb is a stromberg ww. I just rebuilt the carb and apparently didnt pay close enough attention when I pulled it apart. I have it together but the accellerator pump rod doesnt look right. I have the arm on the pump and then a clip on top of the arm. In idle position (butterflies closed) the pump is pulled all the way up. when I hit the throttle the pump should be pushed down but I dont see how- the arm just kinda slides over the pump rod and doesnt push it down at all. Did I assemble it wrong?

Anyone got a picture? I checked the old car manual website and found some pictures that look like i have it right, but not sure.

I found a picture on Ebay- Mine looks like this. Mounted the same and this is what mine would look like if I hit the gas pedal- See how the pump rod is staying and the arm is compressing to the body of the carb... Is this right?

As I recall, that pump is spring loaded. The arm keeps it up. When you accelerate, it releases the pump, and that pushes it down.
It is hard to re-assemble the top because you have to line that up and push the spring down at the same time. Jacks with the gasket sometimes.

But it has been a long time since I took a wwII apart. I think the bbd is about the same though, and that is what I remember.

Thanks Andrew. That makes sense.

I got some gas running through it and it seems to squirt gas when I hit the throttle so I guess its good.

Another question- Is the choke supposed to open all the way once the engien starts running? as soon as a vacuum is pulling on the engine the little vacuum choke pulls open all the way. Is that normal?

I have a bunch of problems to work through right now- It appears that all the gas in the carb disappears overnight and the lines are empty. so in the morning it doesnt want to start- kills the battery trying to pump gas to the carb. Its a new fuel pump last year but the car has sat. I may upgrade to electric but that doesnt explain where the gas inside the carb went... There should be enough left in there to start the car in the morning atleast...

no generally it doesn't open as soon as you touch the throttle.
sounds like the spring in the intake is bad, or you put the linkage on wrong.

It isn't hot enough or else I would say yes, that is pretty normal, that by the next morning, the carb is dry. Not the lines though. In the winter, I normally have to leave it a week before I dry out the carb.
Are you sure that there isn't a leak somewhere? At the feed line would be my bet. When you shut off the engine, feel there and see if it is wet. Might be too hot for it to collect, or it runs off somewhere.

Worked on a few poly's and even have one forsale I plan on parting out soon, if you need something.
Not too bad to work on except I hate the mech lifters.

Thanks Again. Yeah it was a leak- The 2 screws that allow access to the jets on the bottom of the carb were leaking. I fixed that but not the choke issue or the accellerator pump.

Choke I havent looked at. Not sure what I did there- Almost seems like a spring is missing but I dont remember there being a spring on the choke. As soon as the car starts- regardless if I hit the throttle or not the vacuum thingy pulls the choke wide open. I'll have to look at it closer tonight when I get home.

The pump is causing some problems though. I pulled the top of the carb back apart and found that the leather pump cup actually has flipped back on itself on one edge causing the pump to get stuck. This explains why the pump isnt doing much. I tried to reseat it correctly but it just did it again after a few pumps. The old one is hard but hangs up a bit towards the lower end of the pump cavity. I cleaned the cavity with a wire wheel in a dremel (carefully) and it helped but still not good. I am going to try to lightly dress the outside of the old pump with some 2000 grit paper and see if it will work.

So much hassle for such a simple carb.

AFter 2 rebuild attempts on my old wwII, I gave up and bought a rebuilt one.
I still had to take that one apart and re-seal it at the top gasket with some rtv.
I wish you better luck, but I have found that a purchased rebuild is worth the extra money vs time spent trying to fix one just due to the age of them, and who knows what is stuck or broke in them.
Could never get the top to seal on the original, and it had some bushing issues that leaked.

Last I looked they were around 110 bucks to 150.
Good luck on it though if you decide to keep working on it.

Thanks again Andrew.

Yeah I litly sanded the mating surfaces and they are VERY bad- you can see its not completely flat but i dont want to file it flat- I may also use some sealant.

Thanks again for you help and advice- Money is tight right now and this is a toy so I am going to keep at it. for now

Okay I changed out the accelerator pump and its workign a biot better but still not right- It seems like the pump doesnt move very far on its own. when I hit the throttle the pump moves about 1/16th of an inch and thats about it. If I push on the pump with my finger when I hit the gas the car responds better. And when trying to start in the morning I need to push the pump with my finger to get it to pump anything.

I made a small clip whcih basically allowed the rod to PUSH and PULL the pump when the arm is moved instead of just pulling the pump and it seemed to do exactly what I wanted except the car then seemed to run REALLY rich (Stinky)so I took it off.

I made sure the arm wasnt rubbing on the pump. everythign is free and moves good but the pump doesnt want to pump much. I am thinking of adding a stronger spring on the pump to return it when the throttle is opened. Im not really trying to rig the thing, but I dont know what else to try.

Were there multiple springs in the kit?
Or did you not buy a rebuild kit?
I wouldn't think it was a problem to add a stiffer spring. Just make sure it is meant to be in a carb, or you will get rust in it.

I bought a rebuild kit from Autozone but there were no springs in it. I'll have to do some searching to see what I can find. There is a hotrod shop not too far from here with alot of hooley parts- Maybe I can find something comparible.

I can only think of one spring in the holley and it is too big in diameter. You might try an edelbrock shop. The metering spring might work, but it will be very narrow, so it might not fit over the pump arm.

You could try streching the spring you have. Just pull it another quarter longer if you can without crushing it. It will be harder to put back on, but might by you something.