Is there an easy way to ID the "good" rockers ? I was told the older versions are better quality than what is sold today and the Isky are better than Crane.

Can I use them on a stock rocker shaft or is a hardened shaft required?

What can I expect to pay for a nice used set ?

Thank You

Stock Mopar shafts for non adjustable rockers and adjustable ductile iron rockers do not get along well The early Isky ductile iron rockers have two distinct differences in them and all the rest of the ductile iron rockers out there, the later Iskys don't have those features. The early ones have a harden tip welded onto the valve stem end and Isky cast into, not onto,the rocker arm between the shaft and the valve stem tip There a lot beefer looking also than the later ones that look like the Ersons and Cranes. All dusctile iron rocker arms need rocker shafts that have the provisions for oiling the pushrods and valve stem tips, AKA Banana groove shafts, that are harden for those ductile iron rocker arms

When I researched these many people that used them didn't seem to think one was better than the other. But Isky Vs. Crane. Many just favor the way the Isky looks "beefier" or has a hardened tip.

I have been told by builders you need to run hardened shafts or else they will gall to the rockers. Some people with mild hydraulic cams have gotten away with stock shafts but it's not recommended.

Here is a thread with with pictures of the original Isky rockers: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...amp;Search=true

The newer isky's are just relabeled cranes. Like these: http://autoplicity.com/products/1285055-...CFaw-Mgodml4AqQ

Nothing wrong with either. Many people say they are all bullet proof and very reliable in the right application.

I've had the old Iskys and a friend had the Cranes. The tips on his wore like crazy (they were on the car when he bought it). Mine never wore at all. I reused the stock shafts and I did have a problem with galling on a couple rockers - I think more due to the shafts being weak and going oval in spots. Good shafts are cheap insurance - even TRW stock replacement shafts are a good step up.

Thanks for the info everyone !

Dvorak Machine's rocker bushing kit is the best way to run those rockers.I beleive it works with all the ductile iron rockers incl max wedge stuff.Bulletproof when done correctly.

Yep,40 + years,old been on a half dozen engines and still like new.

Crane does not supply Isky with ductile rockers. Since "CRANE" is embossed in the bottom of the casting, that would be a bit tough for Isky to explain. Crane went to all new dies and tooling for the ductile rockers over four years ago, strengthening critical areas, and improving overall quality. Also, the pre-2009 rockers had a flame hardened tip, while all the newer ones have an induction hardened tip for better hardness and consistency. Both 1.5:1 and 1.6:1 ratios are available. Regards, Chase

I have the older Isky rockers bushed, blueprinted, with new harware all done by RAS years ago and they also have the good hard chrome shafts too.This is a pretty bullet proof street/strip rocker arm setup
Gus

I have a set of Crane ductiles I want to use on my build. How do I ID them as 1.5 or 1.6? And of what era they may be?

Also the shafts are not grooved.Is there a tech article showing how this is done? How can I tell if they are hardened?

Thanks in advance.

There are formulas for checking rocker ratio and you may find them on the Wallace Racing website. As far as the shafts go I would go with some hard chrome shafts from Mancini Racing.
The banana grooves are a good idea but with chrome shafts and unrestricted oil to the heads you should be good to go.
Gus

I bought a set of Crane's that were brand new in the box but well over 10 years old for $100 two weekends ago at a swap meet. Had springs, adjusters and lock nuts still in the plastic.

Here are the rockers and shafts I have. The pads do not appear to be any different that the rocker material. but the pads show minimal wear. \
The shafts seems to be in really good shape as well.

Question, should I groove the shafts I have and run them? I plan on tossing the springs and going with spacers and better hold downs.

If you are going with the shafts you have you may want to groove them. Just make sure you go over the groove with scotchbrite or 600 grit emery cloth to make sure there are no rough edges. I had the good Isky rockers so I had them bushed and blueprinted by RAS. They have very nice shafts too but they are about $100 each. I think the spacers and good holdowns are a good idea.I got my studs and holdowns from Mancini and the spacers from Harlan Sharp.
I think you should be OK as long as you stay away from huge spring pressures

Gus