Because I own a 70's Satellite I found this on the net:

https://digi-tails.com/1970-plymouth-road-runner-led-tail-light-panels

You also need the LED-flasher.

Another video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOcN4wmoPno

I'm doing the fronts of the cars. The cars with clear lens can have the parking lights turned into driving lights and still keep the amber turn signals. Check out www.globaloverdrive.com

Tony Edler
Illumin8s
Send inquiries to illumin8s@hotmail.com

It took me a few days to get all the parts in but I have completed the LED replacement (just bulbs) for everything except the headlights and road lights on my 1970 Barracuda. I am very happy with the results in that the lights are brighter, faster and cooler. Moreover, I have calculated that I have reduced amp load on the front wiring harness and alternator by roughly 4.8 amps. Here are the parts I used:

Tag Light: $12.99 2x BA15S S8 LED Bulb Lamp 60 Lumen Warm White 12V AC DC for Boat, RV, Car Auto
Dash Reverse Indicator: $6.75 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White
Dash Lights: $20.25 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White
Brake Light/Turn Signals: $1.95 AGT 1157 Pair LED SMD 18 LED Bulbs Brake/Stop Red 2057 7528 2357 3497
Reverse Lights: $16.99 JDM Astar 800 Lumens Super Bright 2835 SMD Samsung Chipsets 1156 1141 1073 3496 7506 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White
Front Turn Signals: $5.78 TMZ 1 pair 1157 19x YELLOW/AMBER LED FRONT SIDE MARKER SIGNAL BULBS Fg1
Front and Rear Side Markers: $3.99 Genssi 5 SMD BA9 BA9S Bayonet single contact LED Bulb White (Pack of 4)
Dome Light $4.50
GRV Ba15d 1076 1142 High Bright Car LED Bulb 13-5050SMD DC 12V Warm White

If you google search the descriptions you can easily find them on Ebay or Amazon. If my math is right, I spent about $73 in total and I think that is a small price to pay for better lights, not having to worry about replacements and lower amp load on the car.

Two things I figured out. In some circuits, you have to replace both lights or the LED won't light. This was true on the Cuda brake lights and front running lights. You also need a no-load Flasher which was like $10 on Amazon. As was pointed out, these bulbs can only accept electricity in one direction so if you install a bulb and it won't light, reverse it and you should be fine. Lastly, I took a dremil tool with a wire brush and cleaned every terminal as I was working on it then used dielectric grease on the fittings to ensure a solid connection. The tag bulb has not actually came in yet but I have every expectation that it will work nicely.

The swap over has no outward appearance of modern lighting except the trained eye will see a true blinking response with the light going out and not just fading between pulses. The reverse lights I chose are freakishly bright so I may eventually replace them with dimmer/warmer bulbs. If you want to see photos of a specific bulb in action, let me know and I will post some pics.

Hi, thanks for posting all this info on which bulbs, where etc.

Were you able to find a replacement LED for the glove box light and/or the map light..

I replaced my dash lights with the LEDs but not the bright lights indicator or the turn signals...I thought they were way to bright so I kept those original. all of the other "white" bulbs I replaced and it was a big upgrade....

Also do you have the brand name/part number for the no load flasher?

Thanks

Glad to help. I do not have a dash or map light yet since my Cuda was a no-frills Barracuda when it rolled off the line but I will be adding those soon.

As for the no-load flasher, I used the "Keep It Clean FF552NLF No Load Fixed Flasher" from Amazon for $9.96. It has a slightly different look and sound compared to stock but it seems to work just fine and it snapped right into the two-prong lead without the need for the ground wire.

I have modified my 69 Charger over the years. I have true HID headlights up front 35w beams on the Hi/Lo and the 55w H4's in the Hi's.

I have migrated all my dash over to LEDs except for my autometer gauges because the retrofit will cost me 10 bucks a bulbs and I am none too fond of that.

My side markers are reflective so those don't need anything, the front valance turn signals have 38LED Amber in there and they work great. Reverse Lamps are 1156 Super White LED and they work great too. Same with the License plate light.

I started making the conversion myself for the tail lights..instead of the whole housing, I put two 36LED PCB arrays in each of the pods and hooked them up to the existing wiring harness. I did the drivers side but the PCBs left a dark area around the array. I didn't care for it too much. I removed them and sent it back to the incandescent's. I love how reactive they are, the split second difference and the intensity they emit. I made a video on youtube. I will make a PCB bpard when I have more time and make it sequential but for now, I have too much other stuff to do. You don't want to put LED bulbs in the rear like 1157s because alot of the light emission is lost in the housing. They also say to put the same color bulb as is the lens. I found the red LEDs to be much dimmer. I didnt have a LUX meter at the time but now I do have one. I'll tackle it again one day...I might break down and just buy that $300 set that a guy already makes and sells. It's all on how much your time is worth I guess. I just dont want a full grid of LEDs in the back. I want separators, make it look somewhat stock yet have an impact.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Rz7NTJtL2o

$8 for (2) 1157s, great price!

Good find, shows you don't need to pay the $15 each most places charge.

Oh yeah...you also have to use an electronic flasher when migrating to LEDs...dont forget your hazards flasher as well. I couldn't figure out what was going on with mine and I found that I actually had to reverse the wires in my |_ pigtail for it to work correctly

They are too bright on any car. They hurt my eyes. No need for a car to have a brake light strong enough to be seen 2 miles away, same for head lights. If you want your tail lights to be broghter take off the lenses clean then and paint the backing silver, this will make them brighter, but not too bright.

Steve, thanks again for the info on the flasher....

I tend to agree that the sidemarker/turnsignal/taillights don't really need LED bulbs... But the interior dash lights/dome light/glovebox and maplight are BIG noticeable improvements.

Unfortunately I can't find an LED that fits a 70 B Body map light or
glove box light. Also I'd love to find one for the AM radio but I don't think there is any way to service/replace that one...

if anyone has any info on those 3 areas glovebox,maplight, radio please chime in...

I remember once spending a few hundred dollars on LED's for my charger...proceeded to install everything, and not denying the benefits of LED's (lower heat/current draw/faster on/off time), they just didn't look right to me. Kinda like big 20" wheels on a mopar, it's just wrong....
After battling the contact issue in the sockets, I proceeded to remove all the LED's and replace it with a good ol' regular $0.40 bulb...and life returned to normal!!
Maybe I'm old, but I like the look of the warm, slow to come on, heat producing, current hog bulb!!! If it ain't broke...don't fix it!!!

Mr, Yuck I think I am somewhere in between. I too want the lights to look slightly yellowed and "normal". I picked out bulbs that did not look like LED light so the casual observer can see no difference in color or brightness. However, I wanted to draw less amperage and I wanted faster brake light response and the newer LED's give me all of that for less than $80. There are some really terrible LED bulbs out there that look odd, different, too white, too blue, etc and I avoided those like the plague! My main concern is the amp draw and overall load on the wiring harnesses and alternator. I rarely see E-Body harnesses that are not scorched and burned and so I have done some hidden/camouflaged wiring tweaks to help reduce future risks. LED replacement is a small part of that strategy and for me I wanted it to be low-key and not obvious.

In the end I guess it is just preference and what makes you sleep better. I am probably too paranoid for my own good!

Considering doing this with my 67 coronet dash lights.. Would anyone know the #s for these bulbs in LED?? Thanks for any help.

So the bulbs I chose for front turn signals and tag light were terrible. I am removing those from this list. The rest of the bulbs listed here are excellent.

Dash Reverse Indicator: $6.75 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White
Dash Lights: $20.25 6 SMT LED BA9 Miniature Bayonet Base Bulb Warm White
Brake Light/Turn Signals: $1.95 AGT 1157 Pair LED SMD 18 LED Bulbs Brake/Stop Red 2057 7528 2357 3497
Reverse Lights: $16.99 JDM Astar 800 Lumens Super Bright 2835 SMD Samsung Chipsets 1156 1141 1073 3496 7506 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White
Front and Rear Side Markers: $3.99 Genssi 5 SMD BA9 BA9S Bayonet single contact LED Bulb White (Pack of 4)
Dome Light $4.50
GRV Ba15d 1076 1142 High Bright Car LED Bulb 13-5050SMD DC 12V Warm White