Is there a budget way or kit to put a manual rack on a B body? Front steer maybe?

Did some searching found crazy expensive stuff.

Gonna put the Bee on a diet

To get good geometry the brakes have to be discs to get the outer tie rod where it needs to be for proper ackerman angle. If you go to ForAbodysonly in the early A section, I have a thread on doing a home built rack conversion. You can get some ideas from there, and with the wider track of the B body it should be easier.
The inner tie rod end to end distance has to be narrow enough to get good bump steer. That distance is dictated by the length of the lower control arms combined with the positioon of the outer tie rod ends. If you don't get the tie rod length within 1/8 inch of the proper length, the wheels will toe in and out too much as the suspension moves up and down.
There are stock pinto and MustangII racks that are narrowed and priced around $200. You can ditch the torsion bars if you want by going to coil overs and bracing the upper mount area. To understand all this, get a copy of the Mopar chassis manual.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=254464

Thanks Greg.

I have the Willwood drag disc on the front already and a copy of the direct connection chassis book, that's were I got my leaf link idea that makes my car hook on a gravel road lol

Would that make it a front steer setup? I seen the power conversion kits but don't like that system.

In your case I would go manual rack, espercially if you run skinnies up front with a lot of air pressure in them. If your caster is minimal, it should steer fairly easy.
The rack I bought was 19.75 inner tie rod end to inner tie rod end. It worked out real close, but came up a touch wide, and I am going to have to use rod ends rather than MII stock rod ends (which happen to fit the Mopar steering arms). You have a choice between a Mustang II rack or a pinto rack. The MII rack is stronger, but I went with a Pinto rack as my car is lighter than most and it is easier to fab up mounts using that plate on the K frame as a mounting surface.
By switching the lower ball joints side to side, cutting off the steering arm , then shortening it and resetting the angle, it can be made to work. Some will say it is not safe to weld cast steel, but mine came out strong as original. You also have the option of a custom lower steering arm, made to bolt to the inner side of the balljoint using longer bolts. To retain turning radius, the factory travel stop on the lower control arm needs to be trimmed when adding the extra width with a custom steering arm. If the lower control arms are the same length as mine, the the 19.75 rack ought to get you there, but may lose ackerman angle. My drag car has zero, which works at the strip, but does scrub tires on a sharp turn. If you get some ackerman in it, say 50 percent or more of stock, I would run it that way rather than comprimise bump steer. I have found that my drag car recovers from getting crossed up at speed very well, compared to a stock front suspension because the front doesn't toe out when trying to counter steer. I beleive that kept my off my lid more than once. I am going to leave that plate as large as possible to keep the K frame very ridgid, and use a truck pan for clearance.

Once this snow starts melting I'll be able to mess with it, can't wait !!!!!