front disc brake conversion questions
#15775
07/21/05 10:17 PM
07/21/05 10:17 PM
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well, being a old die hard i never thought i'd ask this. has anybody had any experience converting to front discs on an early b-body without a power assist? i'm at my wits end on my 65 coronet. everything in the brake system is new. it has praise dyno ceramic-metallic shoes and 11" drums. i have a nice firm pedal but i almost need to use both feet to stop the thing! the pedal effort it takes to stop is ridiculous. my 69 r/t has virtually the same system, except for asbestos shoes, and stops reasonably well. i've been reluctant to convert because i've had disc brake cars that wouldn't stop. any ideas?
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15776
07/21/05 10:43 PM
07/21/05 10:43 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,118 Alone in the darkness
gamagoat6x6
super street
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super street
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Posts: 5,118
Alone in the darkness
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I think those ceramic shoes have to be hot to start working right. You might try larger bore wheel cylinders or a smaller bore master to get more squeeze on the shoes. A brake booster would help.
`02 RAM2500 SPORT V10 4x4
`06 GMC sierra
NO cars
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15777
07/21/05 10:49 PM
07/21/05 10:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,734 Charlotte, NC
446acuda
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Charlotte, NC
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The '73-6 a-body disc spindle fit the early b-bodies too. My brother used them on his '64 Dodge 440 and even used the a-body hoses.btw he used a junkyard aluminum dakota power brake master cyl but installed it as a manual master cylinder with no booster on his car. Stops good with no issues.
Last edited by 446acuda; 07/21/05 10:53 PM.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15778
07/22/05 12:04 AM
07/22/05 12:04 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 845 Kansas
64Belvedere
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super street
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Maybe you could put some regular disc brake pads on and see if the braking action improves (after they "bed in"). Otherwise, I'd say it's the master cylinder bore diameter. Don't quote me on this, but I think a bigger bore makes for a harder pedal, and smaller bore makes for easier pedal effort. I used regular NAPA pads and a manual master cylinder from a '70 Belvedere application (no idea what the bore diameter is) and my '64 stops just fine.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15780
07/22/05 01:22 AM
07/22/05 01:22 AM
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I think you have a wrong size mastercylinder. I run 13,15" discs with big red calipers, with Hawk blue - will outbrake almost anything!
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
[Re: Fab64]
#15782
07/22/05 06:03 AM
07/22/05 06:03 AM
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Like Andy said,there are lotsa' option's out there,I used '81 cordoba units on my 63 sport Fury,and on several later 68/69 RR's,but I'd turf the oem style pre '66 single pot m/cyl. my '62-64 Fury's have alway's been fine with 11" drums,I just grabbed a set of 11" drums from a '68 charger,that is in my shop for paint,my buddy doesn't want them,I'd rather bolt them on my '62 fury than the disc's, I bought a supply of NOS m/cyl's for a 66-67 belvedere years ago, and switched up to that dual reservoir,manual drum style m/cyl.with no booster,I think you should try a different set of shoes first,and let us know which master cyl. you are using,maybe you have a line or distribution valve blockage,bad wheel cyl. ??, could be something minor,the 11" should work with a lot less effort,,If you think you need it,I do have a '70 B body booster and manual master cyl. for drum brakes,kickin' around here someplace.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
[Re: AndyF]
#15786
07/22/05 12:50 PM
07/22/05 12:50 PM
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i've had 2 master cylinders on the car. the first was a 67-69 replacement dual with a 1" bore. i have the fine lines kit that splits the front from the back, new stainless lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, hardware, etc. a couple of weeks ago i put one of the alum master cylinders on (1 1/16" bore) i purchased from magnum hp (fits good). there wasn't any difference in pedal effort between the two. the ceremaic-metallic shoes don't fade with repeated 60mph stops but the pedal effort is too much. i've got a ton of $$$$ in this and hate to give up on it. i've thought about a power booster but would need the toggle linkage and plate to make it work. there aren't any old mopars in salvage yards around here to get parts.
i've thought about an ssbc or wilwood front conversion. don't know if it will work without a bunch of extra parts. i've heard that disc's without power assist have a lot of pedal effort also, don't know if thats true or not.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15788
07/22/05 01:02 PM
07/22/05 01:02 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 149 KY
rbds65
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Gator, I don't see anything about a proportioning valve. You need one. My '65 has '74 A-body setup, '67 replacement dual master cylinder, Finelines proportioning valve, and pedal feels same as with old single pot m.c. Hope this helps you.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
[Re: stubbs300 ]
#15791
07/22/05 02:53 PM
07/22/05 02:53 PM
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both master cylinders that i have used are dual resevoir. the parts replaced are new wheel cylinders for 11" drums, new hoses, new brake lines, new springs, new Praise Dyno ceramic-metallic shoes and spring hardware. early b-bodies never had porportioning valves. the single resevoir master cylinder fed into a block that tee'ed out to the front and rear lines. i have never used that system. the Fine Lines conversion doesn't use any porportioning valve, it just simply splits the front and back. i thought my statement of parts in use was covered, maybe i wasn't clear, .
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15792
07/22/05 05:34 PM
07/22/05 05:34 PM
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I wonder if the shoe material simply requires more pedal effort, since you mentioned that your other car with standard type shoes seems to be fine. Another option would be to move the pushrod mount on the pedal to increase the leverage.
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Re: front disc brake conversion questions
#15793
07/22/05 09:03 PM
07/22/05 09:03 PM
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greg, you may be right about the material. i have a set of new asbestos shoes (like whats on my 69 r/t) i probably ought to try before doing anything else.
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