Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
#157706
11/27/08 02:03 PM
11/27/08 02:03 PM
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Crocker
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1. Do it matter which (square back) alternator field terminal the green wire and the blue wire from the (70 up) VR connects to? 2. What are the consequenses of having them in the wrong place? I am still having an overcharge problem with the 70 cuda. I have tried -New alternator - 2 new Voltage reguators -3 screws into the firewall and a ground wire to the voltage regulator -Bypassed all heavy wires on the bulkhead connector with soldered and heat shrink connections Any other suggestions? This one is going to haunt for a long time Happy Thanksgiving Glenn
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#157709
11/27/08 02:18 PM
11/27/08 02:18 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Batt cables/terminals cleaned? Do you have another known good(fully charged) battery you could toss in real quick? At a fast idle what(voltage) readings are you showing at the batt & the alt & the blue field terminal? EDIT try jumping from batt positive terminal to the blue field lead both to the male field terminal on the alt & to the(blue) wire that plugs onto it.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 11/27/08 02:25 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157710
11/27/08 02:24 PM
11/27/08 02:24 PM
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Quote:
1. Do it matter which (square back) alternator field terminal the green wire and the blue wire from the (70 up) VR connects to? 2. What are the consequenses of having them in the wrong place?
I am still having an overcharge problem with the 70 cuda. I have tried -New alternator - 2 new Voltage reguators -3 screws into the firewall and a ground wire to the voltage regulator -Bypassed all heavy wires on the bulkhead connector with soldered and heat shrink connections Any other suggestions? This one is going to haunt for a long time
Happy Thanksgiving Glenn
Blue and green can go either way.
Simple test for overcharge. 1-Unplug regulator. If its still charging you have a alternator or wiring problem. If it stops charging go to step 2.
2-At the regulator plug you should have battery voltage or close to it on the blue wire. If not find out why. A regulator needs battery voltage to sense and regulate correctly. Common problems are feeds going through a resistor causing low voltage which will cause overcharge. You can run a jumper direct to the blue wire from the battery to see how it does. The molded regulator plug can also fail and cause problems.
Its a very simple system and easy to diagnose.
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157712
11/27/08 03:08 PM
11/27/08 03:08 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Quote:
I thought maybe the cold weather drained the battery a bit, so I charged it up and tried again...ironically the voltage went up to 15.25.
bad cell in the battery, it wont take a charge & the VR ups the voltage to try & make it charge. EDIT but 1st I'd take a jumper wire from the batt positive with a small alligator clip on the other end & slide it onto the alt field terminal(w the blue wire still connected) & see what happens.
Last edited by RapidRobert; 11/27/08 03:18 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157714
11/27/08 03:35 PM
11/27/08 03:35 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Those hand held jobbies ain't as smart as they think they are, they cannot load(test) a battery properly & have OK'd alot of bad batteries. Do you have a jumper wire made up that you can try real quick(batt to blue field)?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157716
12/04/08 06:32 PM
12/04/08 06:32 PM
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RapidRobert
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Could you jump from the batt positive to the VR blue AT the VR AND from the battery positive over to the male terminal ON THE ALT that has the blue wire on it(keep it plugged in) AND jump from the other male field terminal ON THE ALT that has the green field wire on it(keep it plugged in too),jump it over to the VR green terminal(again at the VR) AND jump from the battery positive over to the alt big battery terminal. This will feed full battery voltage to the alt field, the VR & connect the batt & alt directly & with your good/clean jumper wires/alligator clips will eliminate the bad connection issues and I almost forgot(one more) run a jumper from the VR case to the batt negative post.Were going to get it all this time! Run it at a fast idle & see what ya got.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157718
12/04/08 07:57 PM
12/04/08 07:57 PM
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Anonymous
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What Rapid is trying to tell you is this:
There needs to be a GOOD SOLID ground between three things:
the battery neg the block (alternator) the body/frame
This is not always obvious, because cables can become corroded inside the insulation and still look good.
Second, the battery POSITIVE MUST be the same voltage potential as the alternator blue (ignition / power feed)
Some things that can cause this path to be low are:
Poor/ loose connections at the ign switch, or deteriorated contacts in the switch itself
Poor loose connections ANYWHERE in the rather roundabout path from the battery positive, through the firewall, through the ammeter, to the ign switch, back through the firewall, etc.
Rapid gave you some good advice, but you can confirm "the problem" without jumpers by doing the following:
With the car at "low cruise" (good fast "boulevard" idle, and check BOTH with battery fully charged, all accessories off, and again, with lights/ heater on
Take a digi meter, and with the veh. running as above, stab one probe right on the batt neg post, and stab the other right into the regulator case.
You want a VERY low reading, just a few tenths of a volt, if it's over 1/2 volt, you have a 'ground' path problem, I.E. poor ground between the block/ frame/ regulator
NEXT stab one probe into the top of the batt pos post, and connect the other right at the regulator blue. ONCE AGAIN, you want a very low reading. Anything approaching 1/2 volt or more indicates a "path" problem from the blue, back through the firewall, ign switch, etc, etc, and back out to the batt positive.
Since you've tried several regulators I DOUBT those are the problem, unless you are buying from some low quality and the same source.
I doubt VERY much that the alternator itself is the problem. IF pulling either field lead drops the charge to nothing, then the alt is OK in this particular case
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: Crocker]
#157721
12/05/08 05:23 PM
12/05/08 05:23 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Glenn I see why this is haunting you, with all the work you have done on this & it's still acting up, this is the charging system from hell but we're going to get it He did not mean stab into the plastic on the back of the VR, stab the probe into the wire RIGHT AT THE VR to penetrate the insulation. The ign sw(or the bulkhead) is looking like a likely culprit. OK lets do this. (1)A short jumper wire with 2 alligator clips from the alt batt terminal several inches to the alt field terminal w the blue lead. (2) a longer jumper wire w 2 alligator clips from the same alt batt stud over to the blue lead right at the VR, either bare the blue wire & clip it with the alligator end or use a metal probe on that end instead of the alligator clip & stab it into the blue wire to make continuity.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Blue and Green wires to Alternator (70 up)
[Re: RapidRobert]
#157722
12/05/08 09:43 PM
12/05/08 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Glenn I see why this is haunting you, with all the work you have done on this & it's still acting up, this is the charging system from hell but we're going to get it He did not mean stab into the plastic on the back of the VR, stab the probe into the wire RIGHT AT THE VR to penetrate the insulation. The ign sw(or the bulkhead) is looking like a likely culprit. OK lets do this. (1)A short jumper wire with 2 alligator clips from the alt batt terminal several inches to the alt field terminal w the blue lead. (2) a longer jumper wire w 2 alligator clips from the same alt batt stud over to the blue lead right at the VR, either bare the blue wire & clip it with the alligator end or use a metal probe on that end instead of the alligator clip & stab it into the blue wire to make continuity.
I agree, this sounds like a voltage drop somewhere. What you need to do, Crocker, is visualize the 'path'. That is, is "ground really ground?" That's why I wanted to check voltage as I did
Rapid and I are hinting at the same thing, where I'm suggesting checking with a meter, Rapid is suggesting a heavy clip wire to hopefully eliminate the "drop." ANY drop in either the ground path, or the voltage supply in the bath from the battery--through the pieces of harness, terminals, connectors, bulkhead, ign switch, etc, etc, can cause this
You have to imagine, for example, imagine you have 4 ft or so of harness--just two wires--laid out on your bench, with the connector and ign switch hooked up. You do NOT necessarily have "a piece of wire," there. You might have corrosion at the crimps in the connections to the wire ends at the switch. You might have loose/ corroded/ oxidized connections between those crimps and the blade terminals of the switch, and you might have poor contacts in the actual switch itself.
You MUST HAVE a LOAD to show this up. An ohmeter is NOT accurate enough at the low ohm ratings this can occur. SO now imagine, a series circut, say, a battery, through this wire and switch, and a heavy load, like a heater blower motor. NOW if you were to put a meter right across the connector of the ign switch, you might measure some amount of voltage--the less the better. The worse the switch and or connectors is, the higher this voltage will go.
The heavier the load current is, the higher this voltage is.
Just one example, once again this type of problem can be "anywhere in the path."
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