Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: RedRam]
#1575537
02/07/14 08:14 PM
02/07/14 08:14 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa
340SHORTY
Truck Nut
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Truck Nut
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,291
Kent, Wa
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Id spend some time diagnosing it before spending any money.. Id suspect a bad slave cyl..
I am truckless..
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: 340SHORTY]
#1575538
02/07/14 08:53 PM
02/07/14 08:53 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Same here. Why spend money on the hydraulics and then find out your disc/pressure plate is what's broke?
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: Rhinodart]
#1575541
02/07/14 11:20 PM
02/07/14 11:20 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA
Polarapete
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,751
Graham, WA
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My 2002 had a SB clutch installed by the PO, it was great! I had a clutch slave failure, too. You can get one here http://www.genosgarage.com/CLUTCH-SLAVE-...0/#.UvWFPvldXxc or it may be cheaper to go OEM Do your homework
1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: poorboy]
#1575544
02/09/14 11:23 AM
02/09/14 11:23 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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careful doing that...the slave on my Dakota seems to have a spring in it that keeps it extended snug up against the fork. must be to keep it engaged with the fork so it doesn't fall off? when not installed and hanging free, it would fully extend by itself, and then if you stroke the clutch pedal, it would push the cup and pushrod out the end of the slave.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1575545
02/09/14 11:41 AM
02/09/14 11:41 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
careful doing that...the slave on my Dakota seems to have a spring in it that keeps it extended snug up against the fork. must be to keep it engaged with the fork so it doesn't fall off? when not installed and hanging free, it would fully extend by itself, and then if you stroke the clutch pedal, it would push the cup and pushrod out the end of the slave.
correct. same with mine, the 2 plastic lock ties hold the rod/piston compressed in the cyl.
you un-hook the ties and let the spring push the piston out to the end off bore to open the hydro line or bleed system. you push the rod back in a couple strokes to remove air then re-hook lock ties and install back into fork/bell,
I just changed the clutch in my sons 94 ram, the disc eat into the flywheel and gave a no clutch issue.
the disc groove in the flywheel was 3/4 the thickness of the disc itself so the PP could not hold the disc from slipping, pedel at the top of stroke to release...till it would not move at all for the no clutch problem.
surprised to see disc/PP still in a burnt but fair shape looking but flywheel with a deep groove worn in it.
I am thinking the clutch was replaced on a burnt/worn flywheel and then it just killed it in the short time my son drove it.
sucks to have the rod drop in the bell, you have to remove bell from engine to remove rod...the very reason for the plastic lock ties.
I have seen the plastic tip on the rod broken and the metal rod wear a hole thru the fork cup also for no worky clutch.
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1575550
02/10/14 01:12 AM
02/10/14 01:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567 Appalachia
RedRam
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567
Appalachia
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Quote:
... I've got a bare 5.9 block and magnum heads here... I could get you 400 crank HP for pretty cheap!
I have way too much invested in the RB size motors to switch. Thanks anyway.
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: Golden-Arm]
#1575552
02/10/14 01:46 AM
02/10/14 01:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567 Appalachia
RedRam
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567
Appalachia
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Quote:
details? is it for sale, or ya just teasing us......
Yes, I would sell it. Never put any effort into trying to sell it though. If I sold it, it would be a pkg deal. that would be the truck and all of my Mopar stuff(not a lot, few rears,blocks...).
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: VL21]
#1575553
02/10/14 02:24 AM
02/10/14 02:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567 Appalachia
RedRam
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567
Appalachia
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Quote:
... Not sure if I am understanding things right here, but if you are saying the slave isn't stroking, maybe the master is bypassing, internal leak?
What does the inside of the firewall look like?
I had a '93 Jeep Wrangler, same symptoms (I think) clutch master was leaking at the firewall, and not releasing the clutch.
there was no evidence of leakage, pulled the slave and yes it stroked, once. Lost pedal, then I messed the hose up while shoving the rod back into the slave cyl causing it to leak at the angled fitting on the hose end of the slave.
Last edited by RedRam; 02/10/14 02:26 AM.
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Re: G56 clutch problems.
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1575555
02/11/14 12:17 AM
02/11/14 12:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567 Appalachia
RedRam
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,567
Appalachia
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Quote:
I found these ftting when researching info for my NV4500 swap.
if yours has the roll pin/o-ring 90* fitting or a straight fitting, you can use the russel clutch/brake line fitting for dodge/jeep to run a -3AN/-4AN line.
I was looking to replace the plastic line for mine. you only can get a stock factory pre-bent plastic line when buying a complete hydro clutch system that comes pre-bled and ready to use.
I got my hydro MC/slave cyl from parts geek.com they have them for newer truck also that have the clutch/N-safty switch on the MC.
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