I've started working on gettimg my VG ute on thd road and im looking at putting sub frame connectors in it.I've seen the cheap looking bolt in ones but was wondering what others have done?

Home made, weld-in are the most effective. You can go as far as welding it through the floor for even more stiffness. Then weld bars from the main hoop (behind the seats) to it as well. That's how I've always had it done.

Make them out of either 2" x 2" or 2" x 3" RHS tubing. Go with a 3-4mm wall section. It is pretty straight forward job if you are handy with a welder. Some guys will make a template and cut them so the fiaganst the floor pan. Others will do the cut through and weld them as has been suggested. Depending on the method, there is a haf to full days work in them.

I used 2x3 tube. slot open the front part of the rear subframe and with a little work the tube will slide right in. it will protrude thru the floor but only in the back seat feet area. trim the floor as you go and weld it to the torsion bar crossmember. only takes about an hour or so per side.

Installed them on a Dart and Duster using 2 x 3 square tubing. Opened up the end to encase the rear spring box. They did not go into the floor but lay flush against the floor pan, then tied roll bar into frame connectors.

thanks for the replys fellas,thats the way i was thinking of going,its gonna be a little while sorting the engine and box out bjt im trying to get as many jobs out of the way before i head over to the US to pick up the go fast stuff!Theres gonna be more questions as things progress,thanks Cole.

Here is the style I build for A bodys. The key is to custom fit them to your car foe greater strength and rigidity. they are built out of moly round tube that is much stronger than 2x3 box.

I usually weld in 2 X 3 rectangular tubing(thats
what most customers want when they have the roll
bar added) they feel its easier to land a leg on a
flat instead of a round tube..... dont waste your money
on a bolt in set.. thats just junk... I stick them up
through the floor pan and weld them solid

I used round bar, I found it easier for me anyways to use out rigger bars and set the main hoop on it. !

I was going to order up a set of the U.S. Car Tool connectors but after the great "U.S. Car Tool Scam" I decided against it. It's to bad, they appear to be the only source for contoured connectors but it is what it is. I'll fab some up myself and never look back. Good Luck!

I have used both 2x3 and 2 1/2x2 1/2 (?) . I fit the 2x3 through the floor, and the second go around was a street car that I used the square tubing to go flush with the floor pan and cut it to weld onto and overlap the rear subframe by about five or six inches. Ditto on the front. It hangs down that one inch below the level of the sub frames, but it is very strong that way and doesn't intrude on the rear floor pan and ruin the appearance inside the car. I tapered the front overlap for looks. With the overlap on each sub of about six inch front and a bit more out back, it should be very rigid. If you feel it needs to tie into the floor pan, that could be easily done with a little sheet metal welded to the pan and tube.
Another trick is to weld 1/8 inch plate to the subframes (all four corners in front of the rear wheels, behind the front wheels) and to the inside of the rocker panels, tying three sides together at each point. That really stiffens up the whole chassis. I ran the Dart that way in the low tens for years, no problems with a tubbed rear.

Mancini
Weld them in with no guess work or extensive fabricating.