I just put 4200 miles on my 04 3500 with the 48RE with a brand new overdrive unit and a rebuilt transfer case. Everything was find until yesterday when I stopped for a train. Put it back in gear, drove through the intersection, then the RPM's went through the roof as if it was in neutral. I coasted to a stop and tried to start again, and the trans slipped. I shut the engine off, waited a few seconds, restarted and put it in gear, and it worked fine for about 500 yards then started doing it again. I was able to get home by stopping, turning off the engine, then restarting and sometimes it would hold for a mile or so then start slipping again. I checked the fluid and it is fine and does not smell burned. I have no idea what is wrong this time. I have not tried it today as I am under the weather which is around zero out anyway.

Last time I had one do that the filter was plugged.

I will check that out, thanks!

Is there any particular gear that it's slipping or any gear?

It will only go from first to second as I just drove it again over to the shop and could go no faster than 40 with the tach at 3K! I had to stop several times and shut if off, then restart it to get it going again once it stopped going anywhere.

sorry to hear of more problems but I am not sure why you have had so many, the 48RE is a very good unit that should not be giving these kind of issues.
To bad I am so far away I have built many of these that my customers have put well over 100k on with no issues.

No personal experience with the 48RE, but plenty with the 47RE. Nearly all of the problems I have experienced have been computer, transducer, or pressure solenoid related. The fact that yours works for a short period after restarting makes me suspicious of your electronics. Are you getting a "check engine" light? if so, pull the codes and see what they say. There is a website: transpartsusa.com that sells 47/48re parts at good prices, ships from FLA. You might check some of the Dodge Cummins forums for specifics on known 48RE failures. Both the 47 and 48RE's are essentially '61 torqueflights with OD, lockup converter, and an electronic governor/oil pressure regulation system. They should have kept the '70s mechanical governor setup, a lot less to go wrong. Oh yeah, make sure the check valve in the trans cooler line is not plugged. Good Luck.

No check engine light and I will check for codes today. I have heard about the check ball, so after pulling the pan and filter I will look into that.

if you have the checkball line the best thing is to take it out.transmissioncenter makes a piece to take it out

Well I changed the filter and it seems fine now. I drove it about 5 miles and it was back to normal. I will drive it more tomorrow and see if it starts to act up again. I am feeling some vibration I haven't felt before, but after 4200 hard miles towing a 24' enclosed with a Firebird then a Chevelle convertible it might just be revolting on me...

If changing a filter "fixed" it.... you have alot more problems. Same with the check ball deal. If you are passing enough crap through your filter to plug it.... much deeper issues.

Well I have gone through 3 issues with the overdrive unit that put lots of crap into the system, plus two split trans lines to the cooler which meant at least 30-40 quarts of fluid has been added since all that took place. I found that the trans mount was broken which probably helped split the trans lines. I added the aftermarket transfer case mount this time.

No, I had the trans rebuilt and the guy just slapped the original overdrive back on without checking the clearances. The collar (I think it is what is called) was too wide and caused it to be too tight. First issue was the wave ring breaking, so they just put another wave ring in it and slapped back together again. The next issue was basically the same thing then the case ended up cracking a losing fluid. I bought a new assembly from Chrysler and I accidently gave the piston and a few other parts back with the core. Put it back together before I realized it and the overdrive did not work. That is when I called a trans expert I was told to call and he told me what I did wrong and to set-up the overdrive. You have to release pressure on it by removing the wave ring, put a splined shaft in it to align it, then measure a couple different areas and select the proper spacer and collar so it will not beat itself to death. There are several different sized spacers and collars used to set it up correctly. Live and learn, it is only money...

Anytime I have had one of my OD trans rebuilt, I always spring for the new OD bearing and seal kit.

So far they haven't let me down.

About time for a new title of trans killer... I never saw someone have so many problems with transmissions in my life!

Anyways maybe run a deep pan without the filter extension and should help keep junk out of the filter til the junk works through.

I hear you, the OD is a bit of a PITA to set up. Takes some special tools, but once you've done it, its pretty straight forward. Glad you're back in business. If your wave-ring breaks again, I'd suspect too much play in the front OD bearing. PATC sells a special bearing shim that tightens things up nicely without taking apart the rear planet assembly....and yes, you will have to reset the front piston clearance again....but now that you have done it before, should be pretty easy.

If you have that much crap floating around in your trans, might be time to install an extra filter. Years ago they used to install a remote oil filter (think motor filter) into the trans line and would spin on a new filter every so many miles.
I'm told it added many miles to the life of a transmission under heavy loads, which is what your doing. I don't know the procedure, but it sounds simple enough. Would be a lot more simple to spin on a new oil filter then dropping the pan a lot of times, especially if you know you have a bunch of junk floating around in there.

They used to add a filter to the cooling system as well.
Gene

Personally I'd NEVER put anything in the cooling circuit that has the ability to restrict flow (filter/check ball). The heat exchanger has large enough coils where debris isn't a problem, however, the trans cooler at the front should be replaced, especially if you've now experienced repeated failures.

I know it's been suggested a few times, but here it goes again. Find a trans builder with some true talent. I used Dave Goerend for my personal build and bought the converter and valve body kit from him. I've had 90k of NO trans issues since doing this. I've also had several customers that had trans troubles (most of them pulling stupid heavy out here in the heat) and they pulled the trigger and bought complete units from Dave and I did the install. Five of these are local and the trucks have been running flawlessly for years.

I understand this now, and would go with Gorend if I ever do it again! I was trying to justify his prices, but now I have spent WAY over what his complete set-up would be...

I had a customer that was soooo totally po'ed with his 4x4 06. Had a Banks 6 Gun on it and broke one of thier converters. They replaced the converter for free, but it wasn't long after that he broke the flex plate and input shaft. Convinced him to talk to Dave and it must have been a convincing conversation as he pulled the trigger on a full race unit with all billet shafts and triple disc converter. He's logged over 80K on it with no probs. He pulls a severly overloaded triple axle toy hauler and doesn't like to slow down for anything.