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Thanks to all. I have allowed 24 plus hours for the RTV to cure. The garage was cold though. I think I'll try Mark's idea with the copper Permatex. Sending the headers out to be coated now. Will install after the Holiday. I appreciate all the help from the folks on this site. Merry Christmas. Tom

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the ultra copper will work but the set screw trick is FOREVER! happy holidays. MARK

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that's what i did in mine, put a plug with sealer on it down far enough for the header bolt to go all the way in.

proverbial 2 birds with 1 stone: not only does it not leak, but it doesn't spill water all over me when i need to take it out!

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I like this idea and am going to do it to my 383 next time I pull the headers.

Of course there's always aluminum heads with blind holes... It was nice to not have to worry about this, maybe I should put the Bulldogs on the 383

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Of course there's always aluminum heads with blind holes... It was nice to not have to worry about this, maybe I should put the Bulldogs on the 383

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not familiar with bulldogs, but just the big grin alone would make me say go for it!

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I have always found its easier to treat the leak from
the inside from where the leak starts from instead
of stopping the leak from the outside... thats why
I use the stop leak... hasnt failed yet... once its
stopped it hasnt come back even if you pull the bolt
(but on big blocks I always use a high temp silicone)
if I pull the bolts

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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i think the OP mentioned that studs aren't an option. space considerations i'm assuming.

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My blind ass missed that part............

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I have always found its easier to treat the leak from
the inside from where the leak starts from instead
of stopping the leak from the outside... thats why
I use the stop leak... hasnt failed yet... once its
stopped it hasnt come back even if you pull the bolt
(but on big blocks I always use a high temp silicone)
if I pull the bolts

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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Pretty simple... he said he doesnt have the room
for the studs and get the headers on and off with them

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Just off the top of my head I thought of running an allen plug(set screw?) into the bolt hole, then pack it with some form of hi temp sealent and run a bolt in after that to force it into the helicoils? Let it set up a bit, remove the bolt and plug and hopefully it will hold, if you use more hi temp silicon on the bolt threads.

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That might work but looking back, I recall there not being much thread depth IIRC...............

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I think the problem is that the leak is coming from around the heli coil thread not the header bolt. That is going to be a problem as the pipe dope sealant used will continue to erode and remain leaking. I would try a good stop leak first , if that doesn't work then you might have to drill out the coils and screw them back in after cleaning the holes. Use the proper epoxy that will take heat.

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Or use a solid threaded insert.

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I think the problem is that the leak is coming from around the heli coil thread not the header bolt. That is going to be a problem as the pipe dope sealant used will continue to erode and remain leaking. I would try a good stop leak first , if that doesn't work then you might have to drill out the coils and screw them back in after cleaning the holes. Use the proper epoxy that will take heat.

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Or use a solid threaded insert.

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X3!

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I guess I don't know what a solid threaded insert is, please explain . Coils aren't very deep, trying to plug the end wouldn't give you much thread either way to work with.

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Here's a link to some self sealing solid inserts:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/05980594?fromRR=Y

Also, you could try JB welding in the helicoils as well. If everything is clean it should hold fine, just let it cure a couple days. It seems to handle heat real well. I JB welded a check valve onto a smog tube once as a temp fix to get my old truck to pass smog, it was hard as a rock and still holding 6 years later!

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These are the inserts I was referring to. I just added a little extra teflon paste to them when I put them in (probably not needed, but made me feel better) and let it set up over night. Had to do several of the header bolt threads on the 906 heads in my dad's road runner. That was about 4 years ago...no leaks.

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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Why are we even considering bolts when studs stay put and don`t have to be sealed every time they`re removed.........

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My only big block experience was with the RB in the Mirada and I can personally say that studs would have made header install/removal impossible.

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I can see that in some cases but w/fenderwells, that`s not a problem.