Hi, I have not logged into Mopar for quite some time. I took a break from working on my charger. I have pretty much had it all apart, and now have it pretty much all back together but am having problems with the brakes. This problem has been an ongoing one for probably the past 5 or 6 years. I don't drive the car really at all, mostly because I either had it all apart or have had brake issues when it was driveable, thus making it not driveable. Does anyone know of anybody or a company that performs mechanical work in the New Orleans area?

The brake system that I have on the car (Car is a 68 Charger):
Front disc brakes: Never figured out the rotor year/body style. 68 rotor will not fit the hub. The calipers are from a 73 B Body.
Rear disc brakes: 2003 Ford Cobra calipers (I purchased a rear end from Doctor Diff).
Master Cylinder: I believe it is a 75 E-Body. I forgot. It was recomended that I try this.

What's going on with the brakes? The guys here can get to the bottom of it. Is it a rotor/hub fitment issue or something else in addition to that

The brakes are just always soft. I can bleed them til I am blue in the face but the brakes never firm up.

Will they pump up (for a few seconds?) which as you know is air. I'm assuming you (bench) bled the M/C first. I would cap the M/C with brass inverted flare male fittings from the Edelman parts cabinet at your parts house. Then if the M/C is good & bled out the pedal will be rock hard with virtually no travel. If good then hookup the front brakes to the M/C port next to the firewall & work on bleeding them out. when you get that half bled (hard pedal) then hookup the rears & work on them. If it ain't air (they dont pump up) is it a general mushy feeling or not enough brake force being applied at the wheels or?

The master cylinder was bench bled. I can try and find some inverted flare plugs. I may have to order them...Napa may have them. That being said, I would be fairly surprised if that is the problem. Now, that I said that though, I should also restate that I have been fighting this battle for a few years and have gotten a fair amount of advice from the people on this website. I think the advice I receive is good. Therefore my problem is either operator error are just an incompatibility of components.

Alright bro , first thing I'd do is take care of the hub/rotor fit issue. those brass "Edelman" plugs are cheap & should be easy to come by. I'm thinking will they pump up (air) or are they just "mushy". On a tough case which this sounds like I would get the 2 fittings & cap the M/C & confirm its' integrity (& that it is bled out) & go from there. Holler how it turns out

Any recommendations on how to handle the hub/rotor issue other than just ordering rotors until I find one to fit on the spindle that I have?

Do you have the proper push rod length for your combo

I don't know if I have the proper push rod length. I have a pushrod for a 68 B Body with manual brakes. Today I left the rear brake line hooked to the master cylinder and plugged the front brake port on the master cylinder. When I pressed the brake it was solid as a rock. So I reconnected the front brake line. I had my wife come out and I bled the front brakes. There was no air in the line but the pedal is still very mushy. Even if I sit there and pump the brake it never seems to get hard.

I'd suggest capping both ports to confirm the pedal is rock hard with virtually no travel then if good hookup the rear brake line to the forward port on the M/C & if still good with a minimal amount of travel (some travel cuz you are activating half of the system) then hookup the front brake line to the M/C & start on the RF corner. Sometimes on a tough case pumping the pedal several times to agitate the air/fluid then the helper cracking the bleeder at just the right time on the 4th downstroke works to get the air out.

Contact Paul Reynolds, President of Big Easy Mopars, at 504-415-5731. I am sure he can give you some names of some folks to fix your brakes.
Ron

I am not sure I understand the question of front fitment. Are you talking about the rotor size? The answer to that is no. I still don't know the size. How would that matter?

Thanks. I will give him a call.