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Just a littler side note. On my dash the ash tray, and if I remember the glove door is a different shade than the rest of the dash. I guess cause they were painted separate. Remember, stuff wasn't perfect from the factory.

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There is really no reason for those parts to be different shades? I definitely would not restore my dash and expect it to have different shades unless someone made a mistake.
You need to paint all the pieces at the same time with the same paint? I'm glad my blue dash all looks the same shade or I'd have to pull it out and get it repainted!

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http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

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The best match I've seen, available in all interior colors.

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$165.00 a PINT???

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Just a littler side note. On my dash the ash tray, and if I remember the glove door is a different shade than the rest of the dash. I guess cause they were painted separate. Remember, stuff wasn't perfect from the factory.

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There is really no reason for those parts to be different shades? I definitely would not restore my dash and expect it to have different shades unless someone made a mistake.
You need to paint all the pieces at the same time with the same paint? I'm glad my blue dash all looks the same shade or I'd have to pull it out and get it repainted!

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In an OEM application, blue was perhaps one of the most "mismatched" color shades when it came to "original" cars having a "uniform" color application...I do agree it looks nice when the dash components are of a uniform shade/hue, but in reality, the dashes, even in black, had variations in shade/sheen/hue/etc...esp E bodies, but it was apparent with all the Chrysler lines to varing degrees...

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I disagree with Scott on this one, The paint that Mike sells IS the paint that was used.

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Was used on what?

Keep in mind that I have 4 original paint duster dash assemblies in my stash, the paint I got from Mike doesn't match the original texture on any of them, Mikes had WAY too much texture (so much that it snags microfiber from a cloth when wiped). Keep in mind, it may not be the paint but rather the way it was applied, as I stated above, it could have been my application technique, but as mentioned I tried it twice and got the same results both times.

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How old is that original paint? 43 years old?

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http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

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I tried theirs as well but the texture was way to strong as compared to my original samples. To be fair it might have been an application issue on my part but I did follow the directions to the letter......Twice.

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http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

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I tried theirs as well but the texture was way to strong as compared to my original samples.

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I agree. No matter how much you reduce it, the texture is still too heavy/grainy. It didn't match my Road Runner dash or my Duster dash as far as texture goes. Both still had original paint on them.

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$165.00 a PINT???

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Also not cheap

Instrument Specialties Paint $105.00 Plus shipping


I like Mike, think he does awesome work and offers excellent products, however, I am suspect of the accuracy of this paint. Just being as objective as possible.

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The best match I've seen, available in all interior colors.

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$165.00 a PINT???

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When you look closely, there are differences in shading and texture on many of the individual components making up the dash and steering column. I would guess that Mopar had intended that the items all match, but different vendors or different batches of paint meant that the results were something different.

Now whether the OP wants to be "as delivered correct" or wants it to all match is up to him.

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I'm not so sure it wasn't intentional. I saw an interior that the owner had redyed everything but the seats with the same shade of black. When you looked at it there was something that just didn't look right.

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Is your dash black? If so, I tried various paints but eventually went with powder coating. I felt that the Tiger black matte fine texture was an exact match to my original dash frame. My local coater blasted and coated my frame, glove box door and ash tray door for $65. It looks sexy!

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Well, you have our attention, how about a photo?

Thanks!

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IMO the dash is "eggshell" not suede

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That looks awesome, FJR doc.

And $65.00? Well done.

Gonna write that one down in my little resto notebook, thanks for the tip.

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YUP!

That looks AWESOME! Nice job!

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Is your dash black? If so, I tried various paints but eventually went with powder coating. I felt that the Tiger black matte fine texture was an exact match to my original dash frame. My local coater blasted and coated my frame, glove box door and ash tray door for $65. It looks sexy!

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http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

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I tried theirs as well but the texture was way to strong as compared to my original samples.

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I agree. No matter how much you reduce it, the texture is still too heavy/grainy. It didn't match my Road Runner dash or my Duster dash as far as texture goes. Both still had original paint on them.

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http://www.instrument-specialties.com/products/

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I tried theirs as well but the texture was way to strong as compared to my original samples.

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I agree. No matter how much you reduce it, the texture is still too heavy/grainy. It didn't match my Road Runner dash or my Duster dash as far as texture goes. Both still had original paint on them.

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Yup, same here. I paid the big bucks for this product, and plan to repaint it before installing. It's way too gritty, and catches a lot of lent when wiping it down. Not happy at all.

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I used it and it is perfect! Like Mike said you gotta know how to shoot it correctly. AND by the way I can always tell when someone powdercoats a dash it is not factory in appearance. Can't get any closer to factory original than using the original paint with the original formula. It isn't that hard to shoot if you know what you are doing.

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Hi Guys,

Just to clarify...The stuff we sell is the real deal. I bought out an old PPG jobber local to my town that had boxes and boxes of unopened bases,toners and additives dating from the 50's-70's. The paint shop closed in 1979, so nothing is newer than that.

We are very low on the additive, we have sold it to many many people over the last few years, but its about gone.

If you are getting too much gloss or too rough texture, it is most definately an application issue. If you use too much pressure it will make the additive stand up causing a rougher finish. If you spray it too wet and don't allow enough time between coats, it will gloss up. The key is light coats, low pressure to get the perfect suede "fuzzy" feeling.

Any original sample is not really a perfect reference due to the way lacquer breaks down and degrades simply with time, not to mention other outside forces.

Any questions, please call the shop. 401-267-0055

Thanks
Mike

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Hi Guys,

Just to clarify...The stuff we sell is the real deal. I bought out an old PPG jobber local to my town that had boxes and boxes of unopened bases,toners and additives dating from the 50's-70's. The paint shop closed in 1979, so nothing is newer than that.

We are very low on the additive, we have sold it to many many people over the last few years, but its about gone.

If you are getting too much gloss or too rough texture, it is most definately an application issue. If you use too much pressure it will make the additive stand up causing a rougher finish. If you spray it too wet and don't allow enough time between coats, it will gloss up. The key is light coats, low pressure to get the perfect suede "fuzzy" feeling.

Any original sample is not really a perfect reference due to the way lacquer breaks down and degrades simply with time, not to mention other outside forces.

Any questions, please call the shop. 401-267-0055

Thanks
Mike

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Thanks for posting Mike, as I said, it might have been an application technique issue and not your product. I still have leftover paint and a couple dashes to shoot, could you offer some tips on getting it right so I don't waste more material? Specific gun pressure, room temperature, spray distance, etc. that might help?

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Get the paint wrong - easily strip it off and redo it. Get the powder wrong and its a whole different ballgame!

I my case and probably others as well, there is rust in the top corners which is not severe enough to cut out but enough to need a skim coat of bondo. This means powder is not an option as it won't adhere to the bondo. Also, doing an ashtray you only want the door done, not the tray itself. Unless you pop it apart and re-rivet it you're pretty much dinked there as well.

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AZ A12 Bee I would love to see an up close side shot of your dash.

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AZ A12 Bee I would love to see an up close side shot of your dash.

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Mind if I throw another little did bit, or maybe just let Mike comment on it. Seems like everybody wants a factory job, but we are all trying to do it perfectly. Maybe it should be done a little more hap hazard like they did at the factory, to get a more realistic look.

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Not really IMO

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What a Richard Cranium. Keep the change.

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Thanks But I have my opinion too and I just don't get why some think that ALL AMERICAN production line workers back then were either drunk, high or both and always did a $#!T quality job?? Why then do we try to make it as nice as we know it was when we took the part off to do a restoration? I see more runs and flaws on a car AFTER it was restored than before. Maybe the car you bought new back in '69 or '70 was built like a piece of cr@p and that's why you have YOUR opinion...mine wasn't. Thanks again for the comp.

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Scott,

What gun are you using and what size tip?

Thanks
Mike

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I painted mine with the correct Lacquer,
I used my old school Binks #7 gun, and I still prefer to spray Lacquer..just hard to find..
Use quailty thinner, not the hardware store stuff, spray it on in thin but wet coats..3 coats should do it.
It has been about 4 years, but I think I thinned it about 1 to 1 to get good results. The Binks 7 is more like a garden hose than current guns..
I also painted the steering column on a different day with the same paint.

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I painted mine with the correct Lacquer,
I used my old school Binks #7 gun, and I still prefer to spray Lacquer..just hard to find..
Use quailty thinner, not the hardware store stuff, spray it on in thin but wet coats..3 coats should do it.
It has been about 4 years, but I think I thinned it about 1 to 1 to get good results. The Binks 7 is more like a garden hose than current guns..
I also painted the steering column on a different day with the same paint.

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That ol #7 was a Cadillac in its day! Mine is 31 years old and still looks and sprays like new!

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