I don't feel like I've done an adequate job in keeping up with new developments in gasket sealers and gaskets. I'd like to discuss new products and techniques for sealing engines, transmissions, etc.

My interest is prompted by the fact that one of my projects this winter is to fix a couple of small oil leaks on a big block. I've got a leak where the timing cover meets the pan and another somewhere behind the water pump housing. FWIW, when I put the engine together I used Fel-Pro gaskets and Ultra Copper.

I'm really interested in hearing of your experience with Hylomar. Have you tried it and do you like it? Dealership sevice techs seem to like the stuff. It seems pricey but if it works, it's worth it to me. Also, do you use Hylomar as a gasket sealer or a gasket eliminator? Could I eliminate the two oil pan gaskets (I've got a windage tray) or would I still buy gaskets and use this stuff to seal it?

Feel free to jump in with good or bad experiences with other new products pertaining to sealing - I'd like to hear of your experiences.

I hate a leaking engine!

Thanks in advance,

Jim

hello Jim. I too would like to get updated & leaks will ruin a persons day. I havent used hylomar or the right stuff but everybody praises it(TRS).

Fel-Pro used to market a product called 'Blue' that I used all the time on BB intake manifold gaskets with great success. Then Fel-Pro dropped it. Looked a lot like the Hylomar Universal Blue in a brush top can.

I use rubber gaskets. I have found that the cork gaskets get saturated over time and the oil will weep out the other side.

I use permatex form-a-gasket on water pumps, thermostat housings, freeze plugs, and fuel pump gaskets.

Anywhere silicone is needed (oil pan corners) I use GE Silicone 1 or the black permatex rtv. Silicone 1 is a door and window sealer that you can find at Home Depot or Lowes. The GE stuff is cheaper than the permatex rtv and works much better. It tacks up fast so be prepared to hustle.

No matter what you choose to do always let the product fully cure before adding fluid.

I also use assembly lube on tailshaft, convertor, and rear main seals/timing cover seals. It stays in place unlike motor oil or trans fluid, which is great if the engine or trans is going to sit awhile before you use it.

Permatex "The Rite Stuff" is absolutely awesome! And for sealing headers...put a bead of orange RTV around the header flange(around each opening obviously), let it set up completely, then install. The permatex acts like an o-ring and it works great. You dont need a lot either...make the bead as low profile as you can.

Kyle

I like Hylomar. I use it on the intake valley pan. Hylomar seals well, but allows the intake to be removed easily. That means I can reuse the valley pan over and over again. Around the ports of the valley pan is about the only place I use Hylomar.
I have never had much luck with most of the silicone sealers, although I use some now and then.
I still use the good old Permatex sealers for most jobs; Aviation Form-A-Gasket with the brush and a tube of Type 2 (I think), because they work so well.
There are a few specialty sealers for particular jobs (CopperCoat, ATF RTV, etc.) but the Permatex products cover most of the bases for me.
Oh, and I use wheel bearing grease on paper gaskets that don't seal oil and need to be removed, like carb base gaskets.

426 hemi intake gasket sealer recommendations please.... Both the paper gasket itself and the end corks. I am growing tired of replacing these.

Take a look at the new gaskets that are out. Cometic has gaskets for the oil pump, timing chain cover, oil pan, water pump, etc. Moroso has new silicon valve cover gaskets. FelPro has a steel center oil pan gasket. Lots of choices out there these days. I used a lot of the new tech gaskets on this motor that I just finished up.

Here is a picture of some of the new Cometic gaskets.

I have used Hylomar on the intake valley pan, and on the thermostat housing, and no leaks. I have only used it as gasket dressing, however, not a gasket replacement.

It's only expensive if you buy it at an auto parts place (i paid $11 for a small tube of the permatex variety before I knew any better), at Harbor Freight it's 3.99 for Hylomar brand.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97824

I don't think it would work well to replace the two oil pan gaskets for a windage tray, I'd use a gasket just to make up for uneven surfaces.

I have learned that good gaskets are worth the $$$ and it does not take long to figure out why.

On the last couple of small block mopar engines I've fooled with I did these tricks to prevent leakage.
*I used high temp rtv on the oil pan gasket on both sides and it does not offer to leak.
*Did the valve covers the same way and it's working out great.

*Here's another tip that can save you money. Most of the rtv at autzone and advance varies in price from $6-$10 a tube.

Dont buy it there go to harbor frieght and get the black high temp rtv made by pro seal (USA company ) for a $1.99!! Works as good as the $10 stuff anyday!

I think they sell pro seal, or another USA company anyway, at the 99 cent store, red black blue etc. I haven't used any on an engine, but I've used some on household repairs and it's worked fine.

Hylomar is non-setting so it is good for things that move around, but not for gap filling, as it will push out. It works very well on metal shim gaskets and on the metal outside of can seals. Also works good on well fit gaskets, especially if one side is on iron and the other on aluminum as it will move a bit with the uneven growth.

For gap sealing, I don't think you can beat Right Stuff. I have been using it on tranny pans since it came out and never had a leak (no gasket used), where I have always had leaks otherwise.

Mopar 82300234 Engine and gear sealer is all I use.