Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1521732
10/22/13 11:14 PM
10/22/13 11:14 PM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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Total is too high but that ain't causing your symptoms. Are the floats correct & is the accel pump tip in immediate & sufficient duration. Cam might need degreeing (some timing sets are way off). Might do a quick compression test just to get a baseline. I'm assuming the reluctor gap/rotor phasing is OK. ported or manifold vacuum? What springs in the dist? 5 & 7 plug wires correct? We will solve this
Ok first thing, Where do you think my total should be at? I only have about 12* of mechanical in my dizzy. I've checked my float level with the engine off and the gas barely trickles out of the plug on the side of the bowl. I have not checked the accel pump but the squirters do shoot gas in immediately when I give it some throttle. The carb is a reman from Holley so I was going to check to see if the power valve was sized correctly. I also tried a Eddy 600 on the car and it ran exactly the same way.
I was told that my cam was degreed when built but no way to verify this. My compression was 148-155. The reluctor gap was corrected when it was curved. As was the springs. My mechanical starts at 1600 and full in by 2400. Im on Timed port, side of metering block. I can double check the 5&7 wires, but 99% sure they are correct.
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: dragduster71]
#1521735
10/23/13 07:43 AM
10/23/13 07:43 AM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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MY 2 CENTS XE 268 YOU CAN USE STOCK STALL 2000 IS ENOUGH I WOULD THINK
Comps website even says 2000 stall is ideal for this cam.
Unless there is something wacky with my converter and its not functioning properly. I wish I had a spare one to throw in the car just to try it.
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1521737
10/23/13 01:27 PM
10/23/13 01:27 PM
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Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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For it to bog that bad I'm thinking carb but with 2 carbs acting the same I'm thinking vac leak. Total normally should be 35 on a SB (checked with vac adv capped) but with mags then 31-32 is a good ballpark & that get set AFTER the initial is set (vac gauge method works good for initial) but all that needs to wait till the problem at hand is solved. On a side note what is the idle speed in drive & the advance starting at 1600 is a bit late but that's not what's causing it to bog that severely. the compression test tells me the long block is healthy & that only leaves ign or vac leak (intake/PCV). I ain't a cam guy so no opinion on the TC but that is a SEVERE bog
Well I have checked the entire top side of the engine for vacuum leaks. I've sprayed all around the intake, carb etc.. no idle change at all. Is there anywhere else it could be sucking from that would cause a leak? Also if there was a vacuum leak wouldnt it run crappy threw the entire range of the engine? Not just on the low end?
Idle speed in drive is around 450-500. I checked the timing while in drive and it is solid at 24* initial. Cant remember if I stated this or not, but when my timing was turned back into the teens I only dropped about 200rpm so idle speed in drive was about 650-700.
Im sooooo frustrated!!!!
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: buildanother]
#1521739
10/23/13 01:56 PM
10/23/13 01:56 PM
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Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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If idling pretty decent, I'd not think vacuum leak. I would forget about timing light for a minute, and advance distrib and see if it wakes up a little. That converter sounds like a bit on the low side stall wise, if that is a somewhat lopey cam.
Should I add timing until the engine doesnt start when its warm and then back it off slightly?? I've heard of that.
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: superwrench]
#1521743
10/23/13 06:59 PM
10/23/13 06:59 PM
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Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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I would definitely check TDC on the dampner. I had a 440 that I couldn't get to run good or pull hard from an idle, and I found that the damper was off 9*. I never realized there was different timing chain covers/dampers before until that!!! Remarked TDC and set the timing and it screamed!!!
Yep I did that, My balancer was actually very close with in 1* of being right on. Im using a 71 318 timing cover on a 74 360 engine. Im assuming it is correct for my engine.
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: weazel]
#1521746
10/24/13 11:02 AM
10/24/13 11:02 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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since the compression is normal I'm assuming the long block is healthy which includes preload. I am in the middle of a LA 360/mag swap on a circle burner & I have the MP P5007477 pushrods which are 7.625" for the swap which I think are now NS1 but I am using MP adjustable ones which are slightly longer than the MP ones. I will check the lengths later on today if I get over to my buddys shop
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: weazel]
#1521747
10/24/13 11:27 AM
10/24/13 11:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443 Indiana
YO7_A66
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""Street Avenger 670 Carb (out of the box, no changes have been made yet)"" ""Idle speed in drive is around 450-500. I checked the timing while in drive and it is solid at 24* initial.""
A solid 24 degrees in drive is a good start. 500rpm in D seems a little low, but if you can get a steady vacuum reading at that rpm, then good. If the vacuum reading is jumping around at that rpm, then I would suggest bumping up the idle rpms until you get a solid vacuum reading.
Have you tuned the carb to show the best vacuum reading in D with the brake applied? If not, try that first once the engine is up to running temp. Then see if the bog is still there. If it is, then try backing out the metering screws 1/4 of a turn and test for the bog again.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1521748
10/24/13 01:13 PM
10/24/13 01:13 PM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114 Oakdale, MN
weazel
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Quote:
""Street Avenger 670 Carb (out of the box, no changes have been made yet)"" ""Idle speed in drive is around 450-500. I checked the timing while in drive and it is solid at 24* initial.""
A solid 24 degrees in drive is a good start. 500rpm in D seems a little low, but if you can get a steady vacuum reading at that rpm, then good. If the vacuum reading is jumping around at that rpm, then I would suggest bumping up the idle rpms until you get a solid vacuum reading.
Have you tuned the carb to show the best vacuum reading in D with the brake applied? If not, try that first once the engine is up to running temp. Then see if the bog is still there. If it is, then try backing out the metering screws 1/4 of a turn and test for the bog again.
I have tuned the carb while in park, but I have not done so while in drive. I also took the carb apart last night and my primaries are 65s, secondaries are 68s and power valve is 6. Can you carb guys tell me if that is a good spot or should I change something?
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Re: Doggy Engine on take off
[Re: weazel]
#1521749
10/24/13 01:28 PM
10/24/13 01:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443 Indiana
YO7_A66
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""I have tuned the carb while in park, but I have not done so while in drive.""
Since you have an auto, you need to complete this first before swapping parts. Drive the car and get it up to running temp, then either apply the parking brake, or ask a partner to put it in D, then start with one of the metering screws. Turn one of the MS's inward about 1/8 of a turn and wait about 30 seconds or so. Then reset your idle speed if needed and check your vacuum reading. If you gained in vacuum, then make the same adjustment to the next MS. If the vacuum reading got lower, then turn the MS back to where you started and then 1/8 of a turn outward and wait another 30 seconds or so. Once you go back and fourth between the MS's 2-3 times, you may need to reset your idle rpms again. But you should start to see a difference in your vacuum numbers (after turning the MS's in or out) unless it was tuned correctly to begin with.
Note: Make sure that your MS's are set the same distance out before your start. Try to keep them the same turns outward. I like to take a permanent marker and I make a mark at 12:00 on each MS after I lightly snug them inward. This way I have a "visual" of how far out each MS is while I am tuning.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger 340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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