Hello all, long-time board reader, just joined.

I have a unique situation, and YES, I have read the archives. Currently, I'm working on a 69 Chrysler 300 Convertible w/ K-code 440 that is 95% restored. I don't believe I have the trailer tow package/3.23 gear. My AVS carb (which worked flawlessly FOREVER) finally dried up after sitting for several years while I was away.

I want to rebuild the carb. It always worked so well, I'm afraid to change. What is a good replacement intake? I want something aluminum. It HAS to fit under the hood (no hi-rise). I would also like to do as little "fiddling" as possible with fuel lines and linkage. Right now, I've got the stock cast 440 intake of '69. Keep in mind, unlike most of your A/B-body guys, I'm looking for kick-you-in-the back, STREET TORQUE. This is a cruise-in car, NO track duty.

I know I'll probably get as many opinions as responses! Most of my local Mopar friends are track/HP freaks, and they recommend "go-fast" 1/4 mile parts, which I know won't work on my car. They can't understand why I want to mess with these worthless C-bodies.

On hand, I have a Streetmaster 440. I also have a '75 truck TQ carburetor, also needing rebuilt, but I really LIKE my AVS. I also realize the TQ/Streetmaster combo is not exactly period correct.

Eventually, when the time comes, I plan to upgrade the car to TNT specs, with a Hughes cam and an Offy low-rise dual-quad. I already have a pair of matched AVS carbs setup for such an animal, but that will be something I won't do for many years down the road. Depending on how much I like the single-carb setup, though, I may just unload the dual AVS carbs and keep what I have.



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I'd probably send the AVS out and have to re-done by a pro... I'd probably used a CH4B intake. Good all around intake and when painted look stock to about 90% of the people out there.

Thanks, I've rebuilt them before, so that's not a problem. I thought about the CH4B, but they're pretty much made from "unobtanium" nowadays, and the prices sought reflect that.

Let's add to my requirements "easily available" intakes.

I would convert the OE AVS to the eddy 2 step metering rods/short pri jets. All OE AVS's are emission carbs & are lean & AVS 3 step rods/long pri jet strip kits are extremely rare to come across. You wont regret it.

Not as sure of fit as I used to be after reading all the posts on here, but I would go with a simple Edelbrock Performer intake and the thermoquad. They really do keep the fuel cooler - which is even more important than it used to be with today's gas - and should be a little bit better on fuel.

Plus you should be able to get that air door tuned perfectly to get that land yacht off the line no matter how much pedal you use

I thought that too, but haven't read too much about the regular Performer (from users, anyway) everyone bolts right to the "buy the Performer RPM" mantra....and fiddle with hood clearance and linkage for 2 days. No thanks. If you check the Edelbrock site, the "power graph" they give you with the regular Performer states it is WITH the Performer PLUS cam kit...sorry, but if I'm going to go INTO the engine, I'm going to go a whole lot further than a Performer Plus cam ONLY.

Yeah, I really WANT to like Thermoquads, but I just never had one that worked as well as this AVS. Plus, mine has got the goofy bowl venturi vacuum port, and the "extra" vacuum port on the front. Call me anal, but I absolutely _HATE_ when I have extra ports I have to plug with caps.

Eddy RPM Performer with out a doubt the way to go...IMO..Thermo quad is good so is the street avenger line by Holley....

Yeah, the later ones when they went crazy with the emissions stuff are a pain.

What RPM range you want to use? Even a basic dual plane like the performer should be good for a 6000 rpm shift. Plus I think it would help with vacuum signal (idle and brakes). two VERY important things on a huge car... LOL

We had a different 340 TQ, not sure what it was about it, one of most rock solid and reliable carbs I've ever seen. but they just aren't all like that, and it's probably luck more than anything

It sounds like you want to use the factory carb, and you don't really want to fiddle with a new intake that might alter some attaching hardware.

Why exactly are you wanting to change?

Mopar made an aluminum version of the factory intake. I will cost about what a CH4B will cost, $150.

I am skeptical of the Performer naysayers. I have one and I think it looks pretty good, but have not run it, so it could very well be a turd, I don't know.

It's a great intake for a torque/street application, that's why I thought I would suggest it for a C body. We've had the smallblock version on a 318 for years and years and it ran great.

If you look around, there are lots of dyno comparisons for intakes, and they always include these. If I remember correctly, it always holds up well, except into the 6000 range. but to me that's not a realistic range for a heavy street car anyway. might as well keep midrange and manners

This will be idle to probably 4500, maybe even less. I just don't wind it up, try to keep the car true to its manners...a nice cruiser with some grunt, but NOT going to win any drag races.

I've had this issue all my life, starting with early Continental Mark III's then late 60's T-Birds...everything you read is TOP END HP! I never wanted that for any of my taste in cars, so it was always a crap shoot when it came to advice and experience from other enthusiasts.

I would just like an upgrade to some more usable torque. The intake technology of some aftermarket units has GOT TO be better in that regard than the stock 440 piece.

I guess the aluminum would be nice for weight savings (like it matters on a 4000+ lb. car), but a nice appearance, so it looks like "something" was done to it, as in period-style performance upgrades, kind of what a backyard mechanic would have done back in the 60's to help his car out, but not building an all-out race motor.

I realize I'm in a niche on this, but thought someone would HAVE to have had similar experiences as me.

Advance the cam 4 deg and rebuild your AVS. Want a few extra MPG? Go with the TQ too. Leave the stock intake. I doubt there is enough difference between a non high rise aluminum dual plane and factory iron to be bothered.

Kevin

I would stay all original and have the AVS rebuilt as well. I had a 71 Chry 300 4dr HT that was all stock with the 440 with the AVS carb and I can tell you its the only car I have ever driven that scared me. Not because of its stability at high speeds but that it would go as fast as it did. I have sent its speedometer out of the dash many times and anything Brand X after 70 mi per hr just as well slow down and stop because they couldn't hang with it. It really shocked many people. If you want to get the car to have better low end I would change the rear end gearing. My chry was 2.76's and you could switch to 3.23's or even 3.55's and it would drive fine and be a screamer taking off if that's what your after.

This car, despite being a K-code, already has HP manifolds for some reason. Guess they were replaced at some point in its life. I've got a pair of Borla's laying around, most likely go with those, since cheap is a quality overcoming many faults.

rebuild your stock carb, recurve the distributor and call it a day. the ch4b or performer intakes would work well in your application however other than shedding 10 lbs you will see no difference. a waste of money imo. if you were putting in a cam I'd say ok. but with the stock cam in there your car will see no gain.

I wouldn't fiddle much with carb and intake...under 4500rpm without some kind of cam change. I'd think about a conveter with a 2800 stall. A good quality one has excellent street manors. It will give you nice torque right now.

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rebuild your stock carb, recurve the distributor and call it a day. the ch4b or performer intakes would work well in your application however other than shedding 10 lbs you will see no difference. a waste of money imo. if you were putting in a cam I'd say ok. but with the stock cam in there your car will see no gain.

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