okay let me start with I ran my best ET couple weeks ago with my dart. It ran 11.40 @ 116. My 60ft was a 1.58 and my 1/8 mile was 7.21 @ 94mph
Heres my combo:
340
4inch stroke
571/571 248/256 Hyd roller'
RHS heads 2.02/1.625 untouched
11:01 compression
Edelbrock air gap
Pro systems 830 cfm holley
904 Trans w/turbo action 10" stalls around 3800
8 3/4 373 gears
27in tall tire
3350lbs w/driver
My question is I wanna get the car down to 11.00 range and was wondering what my best options would be to change?

More cam, more gear, more converter, more intake

So single plane? and My heads should be fine the way they are? would You go with a solid roller?

I would tune what you have first, jetting, timing, shift points and starting line stall speed, tire pressure and then look at the chassis parts before messing with the motor, make sure it is maxed out all the way from the front bumper bolts to the rear bumper bolts before changing any other parts Concentrate on the 60 ft times first, make that baby moves hard the first 60 ft, as hard as you can get it to The first part I would look at changing once you get it maxed out is the converter, is this a street and strip car or race only?
EDITED: what RPM are you crossing the finish line at now?

Get the heads fully ported fore sure, would be best bang for buck, and should get you 11.00s once tuned. Yes more gear more cam more converter would all help, but head porting is where you will make your biggest gains for the $$$.

Its a street/strip converter. I cross the traps at 6000. I played with the timing and it ran best at 32-34 total. Where would be a good place to have my RHS heads ported at?

Also my fuel system is a holley blue pump with 8an line to the carb. And my suspension is ss 002/003 springs with longer shocks and pinion snubber. And I have 90/10 shocks in the front.

IMO, your current set-up is pretty well matched. It will be a bit of a challange to get what you want from one change. I think you would be best served, like you are planning, to find more power, but understanding that your suspension will become less ideal as the power goes up.

With that said, you're looking for 40 hp or so. I would start with the heads. If you can live with more CR, get that too. This will help you every where in your current power range, and keep you from the "now I need more gear/converter/tire...." syndrome. The next item would be the cam, but again, I would not make a big change there for the same reason. A solid roller or FT with faster ramps similar or slightly larger specs as you have now. Unfortunately, this change would be $$$$.

Okay thanks. Anyone recommend someone that does a good job with RHS heads?

If you port the heads, be sure to address the intake manifold...

You should treat the two as one unit, since the port goes from the throttle blade to the valve seat. So many people worry about ported heads yet leave the manifold, or carb as the choke.

Also, after you have the heads and manifold ported "correctly", you will need to adust the valve events to best take advantage of your newfound airflow. This usually affects mutltiple other areas, such as converter stall and rear gear ratios, etc....

In short, it's the combination that makes it quick.

Okay thanks. One other question do you that a single plane with help any?

I would think a weiand excellerator would work well. I have had excellent results with them. Nice intake.

I think you're close to using all of the head you have now. If the gearing remians, I'd leave the intake, add a 950HP carb, and swap in a solid flat tappet with another 15° @ .050 and .030 more lift. I'd also plan to upgrade the convertor to a UCC custom 9" to work with the gears and street use and still give good track times.
If you're not going to gear it, you'll need more steam but IMO a single plane will take some of the flatness from the torque curve which will hurt you.

Okay my carb right now is a 950hp but flows 830cfm.

Something Seems out of wack if you are turning 6000 in the traps and only running 117 mph with 3.73 gears. That seems like lots of slip.

Converter slipping too much? I shift the car at 6000 also.

Hard to say from this end but if your tach is right you are losing 12 mph in slip. No slip should be about 5400 at 116 mph. I am figuring about 11.5 percent of slip.

I would port the heads first too. My combo is almost identical, but with ported Edelbrocks, less compression, smaller carb, and more converter...runs 10.7x's @ 123mph.